Hunter 37 Standing Rigging

[odonnellryan]

Hi all!

First post here.

Currently there is 9/32 on my backstay and forestay and 1/4" on everything else for my C37. 1/2" pins.

Going by what riggers I've talked to it seems this is way undersized and I should be looking at 5/16 for everything.

Does this sound right? From breaking strength 1/4" DOES seem to be undersized!

I think I'll be putting Dyneema on the running backstays with low-friction rings.

What do you guys have on your C37s?

 

[sandpiper10471]

I am a long way from my boat so cannot check rigging size for many months. Re running backs - really not needed on these boats as the mast section is so robust. However, I still have mine and do actually use them when the wind is up along with the staysail. Dyneema is almost always a good idea I think but in this case it is expensive for the investment return.

 

[Johnb]

I recently had my rigging replaced and started the thread referenced below as a result. There were some helpful responses. Suggest you check it out.

https://forums.sailboatowners.com/i...r-cutter-37-rigging.191646/&highlight=rigging

 

[odonnellryan]

Yes, did see your thread after browsing through some more! (did not seem to eagerly come up on Google last I checked unfortunately).

Seems there isn't really a consensus however. I feel I should be going with 5/16" on at least the uppers. Probably can get away with 9/32" on the stays + lowers if I want to skimp? Or maybe I'll put 5/16" on the forestay as well. Hmm.

 

[jssailem]

When in doubt there is always the engineering design specifications to fall back on.
https://www.marlow-hunter.com/wp-content/export/Owners-Manuals/306 Owner's Manual 2004.pdf

The challenge to upping the cable diameter of your rigging is to put more weight in the air above your boat needlessly.

Lighter in the air is better for a boat. If willing to change out the standing rigging every 5 years or so consider dyneema in lieu of 316 stainless 1/4in 1-19.

 

[DianaOfBurlington]

I would go with 5/16" on the uppers - going strictly by C44 spec which is for 5/16" on the mizzen, which is approximately the size of a mainsail on a 35-38-footer. Use the 9/32" on lower shrouds, the inner forestay, and the running-backstay uppers, which would correspond to about a 30-32-footer's principal rig. Pin sizes should be 1/2" throughout.

I would suspect some of these may have been changed out during the life of your boat, just going by its age. The new rigging you're considering should be the 4th or 5th set of wires on a 1970s-1980s Hunter.

 

[DianaOfBurlington]

Lighter in the air is better for a boat. If willing to change out the standing rigging every 5 years or so consider dyneema in lieu of 316 stainless 1/4in 1-19.

Safer for those on the deck is better for those on the deck. Dyneema is always vulnerable to any open knife blade (or anything like it). Save it for ORC-spec lifelines, not for standing rigging on a pleasure yacht typically used casually and when some relaxation to strict maintenance routines and schedules is a benefit (if not necessity). A good set of US-made 316-SS 1x19 wires is worth a minimum of 15 years in pretty hard use. The difference in righting moment and masthead movement will be pretty hard to discern for the average owner-maintainer of the average cruising yacht; the safety is worth far more than the performance gained and even more than the performance gain perceived.

 

[Blaise]

Having ocean raced by boat for 40 years, I can tell you that 9/32" discontinous rod is strong enough (for the uppers) for anything you will ever encounter. My lowers are still 1/4". I have added an intermediate shroud from the spreader tip to the attachment point of the runners, which I have thrown away. (in 1979) Headstay and backstay are 9/32". Gentlemen, no one has pushed their boat harder than me.