Introduction and first question about leaking windows

Dec 7, 2018
10
Hunter 326 Poole
Hi Everyone..
We have just taken ownership of a 2001 Hunter 326 which I am sad to say had been a little unloved.. Our plan is to get her back to good condition..

The first pretty major issue is a leaking window letting rain into the boat.. Looks like it's been leaking for years and probably a big reason for all the mould in the boat.. We plan on removing and replacing all the windows with new because the windows are very scratched and crazed..

Does anyone have any advice for removing and replacing the windows that are bonded in?

The other question is the original windows appear to have screw holes but there are no screws fitted.. The bonded windows on the top have screws but the side windows don't have any screws.. Is this normal?

When replacing the windows what thickness acrylic is recommended for the side windows and the top windows?

Thanks for any advise..
 
Nov 6, 2006
9,885
Hunter 34 Mandeville Louisiana
Welcome to the gang !!
YouTube is your friend ! This is a good video on the replacement of the flat portlights.
The ones that have screw holes are probably curved (?) and the screws may have been used to hold the acrylic in place while the caulking/glue set.. then removed afterwards.. Thickness should be as original or a mm or two thicker.. I am not familiar with the thicknesses used on that boat.. The Hunter guys may be able to help with that one..
Welcome again..
 
Dec 7, 2018
10
Hunter 326 Poole
Thanks, That is a useful video.. Is that how the original windows are mounted?
Any idea how to remove the interior plastic trim ring on the windows without breaking it? They feel really secure..
 
Sep 24, 2018
2,549
O'Day 25 Chicago
After much research, analyzing and speculating I plan on using 3M VHB tape and Sikaflex. The VHB is very strong and is now being used to hold body panels of semi trailers together. It serves two purposes in our application - It holds the lexan in place while the sikaflex is curing and it prevents it from being squeezed out. Boatworks today has used this exact method.

I've also read that lexan can eat away at 5200. I believe it was in an article by Don Casey
 
Nov 6, 2006
9,885
Hunter 34 Mandeville Louisiana
Another note, if ya plan to use 3M VHB tape, use the thick stuff (.062" or 1.6mm) to accommodate the expansion/contraction of the plexiglass against the fiberglass.. and cleanliness is of utmost importance to get a good bond.. The 3M website has some really good information about using the VHB successfully..
 
Sep 24, 2018
2,549
O'Day 25 Chicago
The VHB usually doesnt feel that strong at first but try to pull off a body panel on a car thats been there for 10+ years. The foam of the tape will rip. Then it's a pain to get the adhesive off. They do make specialized wheels for removal but its not worth it
 
Jun 8, 2004
10,024
-na -NA Anywhere USA
First, never use any acetone on the windows. Hunter solidly used Dow 795. Please others confirm the number. If you can get a fishing line in between the fixed window and fiberglass, you can use it like a saw pulling back and forth cutting the caulk. NEVER USE 5200 ON THIS. Clean off old caulk being careful. You can use alcohol.. even moonshine worked. Screws were used at times but the holes were big to allow for expansion and contraction of the window. Sometimes they were pulled out after the sealant held in place. Suggest when you do put the window on to tape the edge of the window and outer surface of the fiberglass lip. The caulk is great but hard to get off thus the tape. You can use alcohol or spit to smooth out with your finger. I did use a little acetone to clean off finger.