Can a new macerator pump be smelly?

[newsailor130]

Hello Peggie and all. My boat mechanic installed a new Jabsco 18590-2092 macerator pump to pump out the waster water holding tank to a through-hull that is below the water line. He did not use a vented loop, which would appear to be incorrect. However, there is a ball valve on the through hull, so I guess the idea is to keep the valve closed until ready to use the pump, then close it when finished. Well, lately I have noticed a lot of odor from the holding tank area. I thought maybe the hoses were leaking and cleaned everything thoroughly with clorox and lysol. I think there are no leaks now, but I still get a smell. I am thinking it is coming from the Jabsco pump even though it is new. Is this possible? I did on several occasions try to run it without first opening that through hull valve by mistake. Is it possible I hurt the pump? Or is the problem that lack of a vented loop? Or something else? Many thanks for any help you can provide.
-JIM

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

It's possible for a brand new macerator pump to be defective and leak, but if you're not seeing any moisture on or around it, it's prob'ly not your culprit. Permeated sanitation hoses are the most common source of odor inside the boat...or, there may have been a spill when your mechanic installed the macerator...it doesn't take much of one to produce odor...or a fitting on the tank could be leaking. Or it could even be the tank itself.

There's an easy test to determine whether hoses have permeated: Wet a rag--use a clean rag for every section of hose--in HOT water...wring it out and wrap it around the hose. When the rag has cooled, remove it and smell it. If you can't smell anything on the rag, that section of hose is ok...but if you can, the hose has become permeated with odor. The only cure is new hoses. Look for signs of moisture on every tank and hose fitting...wipe with a clean rag and smell the rag.

Bleach, contrary to popular belief, will not eliminate odors...it doesn't clean either. If it did, there'd be no need to use detergent with it in a clothes washer. First search all the possible sources of odor till you find the culprit. When you have, I'll be able to tell you what you need to do eliminate the problem.
--Peggie
"If you can't explain it to a six year old, you don't completely understand it yourself." --Albert Einstein

 

[newsailor130]

Hi Pegg, so yeah, you are right. The hoses are new but not connected well. I put blue stuff in the holding tank, and ran it through the system. Then, I wrapped white paper towel around all the fittings, and sure enough, they are turning blue.... darnit... more work...

 

[NYSail]

Thanks boat mechanic......

 

[newsailor130]

So, Peggy, once I get the leaks addressed, what's the best way to scrub down the compartment and the gear, and apply pureayre, etc. I'll bet you have a protocol you can give me.

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

Scrub the entire area including every nook and cranny with detergent and water. If I were doing it I'd use a power washer 'cuz it gets into places we can't reach. First I'd wet everything down and then use a pump garden sprayer ('cuz it's so much easier than a trigger sprayer) to apply detergent to everything including the outsides of the hoses....then hose it off with the power washer. Mop up all the excess water and let things dry for a while...not completely dry, just not still WET...and, using the same garden sprayer, apply PureAyre to every surface, nook and cranny. Don't rinse, just let it dry completely with hatches open--even turn a fan on if you can--for 24 hours. If you still have ANY odor, you missed a spot.

--Peggie

 

[newsailor130]

Gotcha, Peggie. Is there a particular detergent you like? Dawn? Simple Green? Lysol Disinfecting Cleaner? What level of dilution? Or appy it straight? That seems to be what you are recommending. Straight application with the sprayer?

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

Wisk is good...and if you use it in a sprayer, undiluted. I've never liked using the reservoir and siphon in a power washer because it dilutes the detergent too much and is also a PITA to rinse completely out of the power washer.
If you don't have a power washer yet, get one! The "consumer" versions (about 1800 psi) aren't expensive (especially this time of year) and come in soooo handy for a bunch of jobs...blasting winter grunge off the boat...cleaning off the dock finger (you don't track dirt onto the boat)...bilge cleaning... And then there are all those jobs at home that it makes sooo much easier. Worth every penny!
--Peggie

 

[newsailor130]

OMG, yes, I have had a pressure washer for years. Can't do without it. Wondering, however, would it be worth renting a hot water pressure washer for this particular task, or is that overkill?

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

Naahhh...I don't think you'd gain enough to be worth the expense...IF you'd gain anything. Plus, I don't know if you can rent a "consumer" POWER washer...and a commercial PRESSURE washer would definitely be overkill.
--Peggie

 

[Gunni]

Macerator pumps are not a substitute for a proper valve. If yours has waste sitting in it, sludge will lock it up and you will be replacing it soon, especially the vane pumps. Below waste tank level the pump has to have a valve upstream in addition to your thru hull valve. Come up with plan that allows you to flush the macerator with fresh after a flush. Lock-out/tag-out your macerator switch to prevent operation without first opening your valves (and checking to make sure your dump is legal). The inspectors will want to see this.

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

Below waste tank level the pump has to have a valve upstream in addition to your thru hull valve.

What does that accomplish?

--Peggie

 

[Gunni]

What does that accomplish?

--Peggie

Meets the use design standard. The manufacturer specifies a valve between the tank and the pump.

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

News to me...Whose use design standard? Which mfr? What type of valve?

--Peggie