Universal Engines Wiring Harnes Upgrade
- Thread starter Maine Sail
- Start date
IF you want to install a voltmeter.
There was no need to remove the red #10 wire, pin 5 of the connector, which goes to the ammeter. Move it from the ammeter to the switch. Presently there is a red wire jumping from the ammeter to the switch which goes on the voltmeter positive stud. The negative stud gets connected to the black wire from the ammeter light connection.
All risk of burning up the harness disappears when you disconnect the orange wire. An in-line 30 amp fuse should be added to the red wire near the solenoid to protect the engine circuit.
It is important to note that the ammeter is not the problem with this circuit. If your panel does not have an ammeter the harness still has a problem. The problem is running the alternator output to the engine panel and then back to the batteries.
If you just disconnect the orange wire at the alternator (and jumper to the solenoid or house bank) you do not have to touch the engine panel at all. The ammeter and all of the other wiring will work fine. You should only replace the ammeter if you want to install the voltmeter. The ammeter will read the current used by the engine - glow plugs, fuel pump, instruments, and lights. The needle will barely move, however.
As always, YMMV.
Tom,
I assume you mean connect it to the starter switch in place of the yellow/red. Yellow red goes to the starter switch not the glow plug switch. So the orange will now go between the starter switch and the starter solenoid instead of between the ammeter and the alternator. Or are you suggesting the starter be activated when you push the glow plug switch?
I suspect he meant connect the orange to the starter solenoid and the "out" side of the start switch, but don't forget a fuse.. The glow plug circuit is normally a grayish white wire with a blue stripe.
Both the red and orange wires should be checked for signs of over heating before re-use. I could not reuse either red or orange on the panel shown, but in many cases you can, and I think that was Tom's main point....
Richard - Good assuming. That's not the first mistake I've ever made, BTW.
I corrected the original.
Thanx for catching it.
Ok... went to try this fix today. Question: what does one do if the post on the starter is too short? It only has the battery cable and the ignition wire on it. The lugs on the new 4gauge wire that I am trying to add are normal size of course. I didnt feel comfortable not being able to tighten the nut and lock washer down sufficiently!
Can you move the ignition wire off the starter post to the battery + terminal, a + buss bar, or to the common post on the switch? Fuse as necessary
Would that give you the room you need?
Robert, I didn't have any trailer connectors (or fuses, lol) on my 1975 Atomic 4's original wiring. I did have the ammeter setup described here though, and on the Moyer forums the electrical diagrams they have show it as such.
When I started my DC rewire, I bypassed the ammeter and made an 8 AWG jumper from the alternator to the starter lug. it was one of the most reassuring things I'v done so far :dance:
Would that give you the room you need?
Robert, I didn't have any trailer connectors (or fuses, lol) on my 1975 Atomic 4's original wiring. I did have the ammeter setup described here though, and on the Moyer forums the electrical diagrams they have show it as such.
When I started my DC rewire, I bypassed the ammeter and made an 8 AWG jumper from the alternator to the starter lug. it was one of the most reassuring things I'v done so far :dance:
I have voltage drop I think in the starter circuit on my M25 on a 1985 Catalina. I do NOT have the Amp meter but have a voltmeter on the panel. The "trailer" connectors are still in place.
I have installed a heavy wire (4 gauge I think) between the alternator output and the starter post. I have replaced the starter button with a 30 amp rated horn switch from West Marine. I have run a new 10 gauge wire from the start switch to the spacde connector on the starter and put a new blade fuse in the circuit. This bypasses the trailer connectors.
I have also had the starter serviced by a starter rebuild shop and a new solenoid.
But there still seems to be voltage drop. So I assume it is from the primary positive from the starter post up to the panel and the key switch which currently goes thru the 2 trailer plugs. The glow plug circuit also goes thru the trailer plugs.
The engine starts right away when I jumper between the spade connector and the primary stud on the starter.
I can replace the primary wire to the panel with a 10 gauge and bypass the trailer plugs but I'm also considering getting a new 18 foot wiring harness from Catalina Direct for about $150. If I go this route do I really need the terminal block(s)? Seems like I could just connect both ends directly without terminal blocks.
Or should I just replace the primary pos wire and possibly also the glow plug wire?
I have installed a heavy wire (4 gauge I think) between the alternator output and the starter post. I have replaced the starter button with a 30 amp rated horn switch from West Marine. I have run a new 10 gauge wire from the start switch to the spacde connector on the starter and put a new blade fuse in the circuit. This bypasses the trailer connectors.
I have also had the starter serviced by a starter rebuild shop and a new solenoid.
But there still seems to be voltage drop. So I assume it is from the primary positive from the starter post up to the panel and the key switch which currently goes thru the 2 trailer plugs. The glow plug circuit also goes thru the trailer plugs.
The engine starts right away when I jumper between the spade connector and the primary stud on the starter.
I can replace the primary wire to the panel with a 10 gauge and bypass the trailer plugs but I'm also considering getting a new 18 foot wiring harness from Catalina Direct for about $150. If I go this route do I really need the terminal block(s)? Seems like I could just connect both ends directly without terminal blocks.
Or should I just replace the primary pos wire and possibly also the glow plug wire?
Is the 12V feed to the starter switch still going through the trailer connector?
As @Maine Sail said, get rid of the trailer connector! A marine terminal block is fine. Get a decent, ratcheting crimper and marine grade terminals.
I highly recommend a glow plug solenoid. You might even consider a solenoid for the start wire.
No, the starter button is wired directly to the spade connector on the starter solenoid. But the main pos wire going from the starter stud goes thru the trailer plugs up to the key in the panel.
So if I get a new 18 foot wiring harness why would I need terminal blocks?
I get the concept of a solenoid for the glow plugs but I'll have to review the details on how to implement that.
The starter already has a solenoid so I don't understand your point regarding that.
So if I get a new 18 foot wiring harness why would I need terminal blocks?
I get the concept of a solenoid for the glow plugs but I'll have to review the details on how to implement that.
The starter already has a solenoid so I don't understand your point regarding that.
I meant an addition, small solenoid so that your start switch need only handle very low current, and the solenoid will handle the current necessary to energize the starter solenoid, which can be upwards of 13A.
I recommend against a replacement harness, just implement the terminal block.
(I have a C36 with the same engine and cleaned all of this up easily that way.)
Thanks jviss. I get it now, especially after a little more searching about an additional solenoid on starters.
Automotive solenoid ok or should I get a marine solenoid? Any particular source or brand?
Automotive solenoid ok or should I get a marine solenoid? Any particular source or brand?
I will defer to the experts on here, but I used automotive "Ford" starter solenoids. Inexpensive, rugged, reliable. The only problem I ever had with one was that it came loose from its mounting bracket.
The wiring harness from CD doesnt come with ends. I like to use weatherpak connectors at the lazerette end, and two BlueSea terminal strips at the other end, one of the strips with #6 screws for everything but power, ground, and switched power with 6-8 screws for each.
Les
Les
I am installing the jumper cable (removing the orange wire) from the alternator output post to the starter solenoid on a Universal M18 in a Cape Dory. The access to the harness, trailer connector, etc. is really tight. Any suggestions for removing the nut form the solenoid stud? I am not sure if I need to remove the alternator, oil filter, water hose, etc. to get this connection done. Thanks!
HJi @Chesapeake Bob . You are commenting on a pretty old message. The info is still good and current.
Your question is about space in your engine compartment. Can you post a picture of the problem? Not everyone has a Cape Dory 30, but we all have electrical systems and can offer ideas if we can understand (visualize) your challenge.
Your question is about space in your engine compartment. Can you post a picture of the problem? Not everyone has a Cape Dory 30, but we all have electrical systems and can offer ideas if we can understand (visualize) your challenge.