Hunter Vision 32 engine to water heater lines.

[SonnyMarshall]

Found some chaffing on the coolant lines that go to the water heater. Chaffing has occurred on the engine end where they have rubbed on a motor amount. Small leak as a result (just wet and no dripping). Should a repair piece be put in or entire lines replaced? Boat is a 1993 and these are original lines. Not sure if there is enough room for a repair piece. Thinking the entire lines should be replaced. Manual calls for 5/8" flex shield hose SAE 20 or 30. Does anyone have experience replacing these 2 hoses and have any suggestions that may be helpful?

Thanks
Sonny Marshall

 

[kappykaplan]

Thinking the entire lines should be replaced.

Agree . . .

 

[SonnyMarshall]

Can I pull new lines through or do I have to remove the floor/sole on that side? Thinking of connecting small line or strong string to old as I removed it and use that string to pull new lines through. Probably will be 10-12 feet long. New hose even though it is flex, is not that flexible and about 1" in total diam X 2 hoses. I could couple the new with the old before pulling old through, but clamps may get hung on something (Murphy's Law). Any suggestions?
Thanks

 

[Rick D]

I would cement and sew them together with a coupling, maybe with a wire tie to compress the ends. Good luck!

 

[walmsleyc]

A word of caution ....
I was recently pulling some other hoses through the liner in my 87 Legend 35.

I directly observed that Hunter zip tied the 120V wiring, and the grey PEX fresh water hose to
the inside top surface of a liner channel (the main side stringer cavity). This was done during manufacture, no doubt to make assembly simpler when they glue the liner to the hull. I saw this through inspection with a "dental mirror" sort of thing, and saw it in a few places.

Now, I did not directly observe that same method of securing for the water heater hoses (didn't look), but if it is done this way, it could be tricky to remove. On my boat, the water heater lines go through the floor liner in a somewhat straight path. So re-fishing them might not be too tricky as long as they can be removed.

These boats were built in a way that never (or at least rarely) considered future owners doing work or replacing such things.

Good luck.
Chris

 

[BrianRobin]

A word of caution ....
I was recently pulling some other hoses through the liner in my 87 Legend 35.

I directly observed that Hunter zip tied the 120V wiring, and the grey PEX fresh water hose to
the inside top surface of a liner channel (the main side stringer cavity). This was done during manufacture, no doubt to make assembly simpler when they glue the liner to the hull. I saw this through inspection with a "dental mirror" sort of thing, and saw it in a few places.

Now, I did not directly observe that same method of securing for the water heater hoses (didn't look), but if it is done this way, it could be tricky to remove. On my boat, the water heater lines go through the floor liner in a somewhat straight path. So re-fishing them might not be too tricky as long as they can be removed.

These boats were built in a way that never (or at least rarely) considered future owners doing work or replacing such things.

Good luck.
Chris

Much like a Beneteau ,I had similar problems.

 

[SonnyMarshall]

I may be in luck. The grey water lines are run elsewhere as all the wiring...……….but the air conditioner and the condensation pan obstruct the 2 hoses on the water heater end. Too much hassle to fix something that ain't broke. I will repair the hose on the engine end and remain vigilant regarding the long hoses. What I can see on the water heater end look very good and hopefully the rest is, as well. Thanks to you all...…. on the way to get some hose, a coupler and some clamps.

 

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[SEMPERAVANTI41]

I have had luck with "self fusing repair tape"on a bilge pump discharge line. Have not tried on heater hose but may be worth a try.

 

[Claude L.-Auger]

Since your pex and electrical lines are elsewhere, it sould not be too hard of a job to replace the water heater hoses. On my boat it's a 2-beer job!
And fairly easy:
1) You might already have disconnected the hoses to by-pass the system so you've already
started the replacement process.
2) Get proper hose. Rad hoses from an autopart store do nicely and you can get a 25' length
at a decent price. Pressure in the system is only 15 pounds (like a car). Connect one end of
new hose to engine fitting.
3) Get 3-inch piece of copper tubing 1/2" i.d.
4) Slip copper tubing in disconnected end of old hose and other end of new hose, connecting
the old and new end-to-end tightly.
5) Duck-tape tightly over the butt-ends, going about 4 inches each side of the joint. Spread
a little bit of dishwashing liquid over the taped section of hoses to make it real slippery.
6) Open 2 beers and call your dock neighbor.
7) Disconnect hoses at water heater
8) With your dock neighbor pushing slowly on new hose, reach in and pull slowly
on old one from tank side. The trick is to make the new hose go into each turn without jamming (the lathered soap does help and will not harm anything).
9) Cut hose and install on tank fitting.
10) Repeat process for second hose.
11) Protect from chafing where you can.
12) Run engine (you might need to add coolant) and check for leaks.
13) Open second beer, congratulate yourself and thank your neighbor.
Good luck

 

[Stu Jackson]

Here's what I did:

Water Heater Hose Replacement 101 - Under the galley sole

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,3769.msg21253.html#msg21253

No interference with other stuff on my boat, but connecting the two ends together was one of your questions. Claude's ideas are superb.

 

[SonnyMarshall]

I just repaired the damaged part and left the rest for another day...… and had several Rum and Cokes(with lime) The air conditioner(under the salon seating just aft of the mast(keel stepped) will have to be removed in order to pull and run the new hoses. Except for the damaged part of the hose near the engine mount, the rest of the hose looks good (Shield flex 250 5/8" with wire). Next time the air conditioner needs servicing is probably a good time to replace the hoses. I will frequently monitor coolant level and the bilge for any leaking coolant (that pretty pink\orange color). In case of emergency, I will notice coolant in the bilge and\or heat alarm will go off. I will terminate both hoses at the engine and fill with fresh water if need be. That is the plan. Thanks for all the input….much appreciated!

 

[jviss]

Boat is a 1993 and these are original lines.

Replace the hoses. Affix some chafe protection; a short, split piece of hose, tie-wrapped on, works well.

 

[SonnyMarshall]

Yesterday, I replaced the 2" wet exhaust from the mixing elbow to the muffler and scupper and all of the raw water intake hose all the way to the pump(new Johnson pump), cleaned and replaced gaskets on the strainer. All in all everything was not bad because I have a fresh water clean out between the raw water scupper and the strainer I use every time I have run the engine in salt water( the 32 Vision is kept on a lift). All replacement hose was Shields 250 with wire. Had a piece of 2" about a foot long left over that is great for what you suggested.... as chafe protection at various locations. I will pull the top from the bench seat in the salon to see how much work will be required to pull the water heater hoses. I had to take a bulkhead out in the aft cabin to get to the mixing elbow and connect the new 2" wet exhaust hose. If you have ever worked on a boat ...… then I'm sure you are well experienced with the move $hit to move $hit crap...…………… and almost 70 years old, getting into some of those positions even surprises me. At least I am able to let the boat down into the water so I can run the AC. It's hotter than hell down here in south Florida! After a day of this, the rum does tend to taste a bit better. Had a little Jameson last night. Thanks again for the motivation.

 

[jviss]

Sounds like you did a great job! I know, it's tough working on boats, especially hoses.

I like Jameson, too.

 

[SonnyMarshall]

Yep, the air conditioner has to come out. Only 3 screws on the bottom holding it, but duct work has to be disconnected and a plenum mounted on the aft side of the V berth bulkhead needs to be removed. The hose lengths will be about 15-16 Ft long. I will use the Shieldflex 200 series rather than the 250 because of flexibility. Should be "easy" after that and then 2 days putting the boat back together. 2 beer job????? Oh, I will get a friend to help me early one morning before it gets too hot, because the AC will be inop during the procedure. It was 93 here today.

 

[SonnyMarshall]

Job finished and everything working well. Pulled both hoses through at the same time. The coupler and tape came apart just as it was coming through the hole in the engine bilge but enough left to grab and finish pulling. Now on to other areas. Electronics!