I assume you tried to pull the wires apart. Where you able to do so? If so, how hard was it?
Waterproof solder wire connectors
- Thread starter Franklin
- Start date
The question is, would they pass the tension test when slightly overheated? Although not started in the ABYC table, the implication is that is with the solder, if present, melted. And I've seen enough melted insulation to be pretty certain it is possible and that the solder must melt LONG before the insulation, or it would not melt under the plastic cover, without damage to the cover. What we do know is that this connection will fail at the heat shrink temperature. I'm guessing that at 125F you don't have much left....The mechanical stress test too. The ABYC standards show a tension pull table.
My connection even passed that test.
Jim...
PS: Never argue with MaineSail orjust kidding.
(Note the warnings on the low melting point solder blends. 60/40 Sn-Pb, melting at 188C, is common electrical solder. There are mercury alloy solders going right down to near room temperature.)
Do we know the solder melting point? 70C (158F) is common. It must be lower than heat shrink, since it is under it.
That is a great point.
But with a soldered, no corrosion joint, less likely.
Mine was on a very low amp use circuit.
Jim...
I really did test mine with a small fish scale on board, that I had available and used the Tension table in ABYC, but it was no amp current , albeit a crude method.
Like I said, my use is in a no tension strain use.
Jim...
I've done some terrible things to connectors in salt spray chambers, destroying buss bars and wires. I have NEVER had a properly crimped connection fail or increase resistance under load. Poorly crimped, who can say. I've seen soldered connections fail during the same test, generally from corrosion at the ends. But as far as I know, it is unsupported myth that properly crimped connections formed with a calibrated ratchet crimper fail.
BTW, I'm not hard core anti-solder. Once in a while it is the only answer and it can be very good. But I only use it when crimping is not possible.
BTW, I'm not hard core anti-solder. Once in a while it is the only answer and it can be very good. But I only use it when crimping is not possible.
The same failure would occur with a crimp.
Both crimp and solder makes a hardpoint where repeated movement can gradually make each strand in the multi-strand wire fail. I've seen it repeatedly on automotive door wiring that was manufactured or repaired with either method.
The solution is to not have any splices at the flex area, and ensure the multi-strand is of the correct gauge so the complete wire can handle the repeated flexing.
Edit: Of course the real solution is to get rid of ALL the wiring, and go sailing.
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Retired Boeing guy after years of GA. There are ways of obtaining strain relief other than crimped connectors. Examples are wire bundles clamped on either side of a splice. Having said that, I've not seen a proper soldered connection, done properly fail. If moisture is a concern, paint some liquid electrical tape on each end. Make sure the connection isn't in tension at any time.
Over heating or underheating, as well as material compatibility are possible problems, but in general, these type of connection can work exceedingly well.
There are many soldered connections in all our boats, but they are hidden inside our electronic equipment.
Having said that I use quality crimp connectors using a quality tool on my boat.
Ken
Over heating or underheating, as well as material compatibility are possible problems, but in general, these type of connection can work exceedingly well.
There are many soldered connections in all our boats, but they are hidden inside our electronic equipment.
Having said that I use quality crimp connectors using a quality tool on my boat.
Ken
Trust me, on that particular project I would dearly have liked to strip all the wiring out of that Grand Cherokee and then dump it in the river!Edit: Of course the real solution is to get rid of ALL the wiring, and go sailing.