Main Salon Upgrades & repairs Advice

Sep 6, 2010
51
Tartan 40 Mattapoisett, MA
So, one thing I will say, I bought a $30 3-inch ox hair brush and used that on the one on the right and I used a cheap $1 foam brush to tip out the one on the left... I really cant see very much of a difference in the finished product... I think rolling and tipping with the foam is the way to go.
 
Oct 19, 2017
7,744
O'Day 19 Littleton, NH
So, one thing I will say, I bought a $30 3-inch ox hair brush and used that on the one on the right and I used a cheap $1 foam brush to tip out the one on the left... I really cant see very much of a difference in the finished product... I think rolling and tipping with the foam is the way to go.
How did they compare for feel and speed, cleanup and control? Badger is suppose to be the best and I find natural hair gives me a lot more control in corners and tight spots. I seriously can't tell the difference on the finished product, only during the process. If I don't want to clean up after, I'll buy a foam brush and throw it out. Most of the time, I much prefer using a natural hair brush. I rarely need to tape with the right brush.

- Will (Dragonfly)
 
Sep 6, 2010
51
Tartan 40 Mattapoisett, MA
I have to confess, the reason I used the foam brush last night was because It was late and I didn't want to clean the brush! The Ox Hair brush felt much nice tipping it out. It's hard to find Natural Badger hair brushes which was why I went with the natural Ox Hair brush. I bought Badger style nylon brushes from defender and they felt a little stiff. I ruined one because I tried to leave it wet and the wet varnish hardened. I wrapped it in plastic wrap, but, I obviously did something wrong. I did clean the hell out of but, I'm not sure if i would use it again or not...
 
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Sep 8, 2014
2,551
Catalina 22 Swing Keel San Diego
FYI... I use 2 inch Badger hair brushes that cost $25 each. They are GREAT for LP and 2-pack paint tipping, but for varnish I still use foam brushes. Simple reason, varnish takes much longer to dry than paint. Even though Interlux and Awlgrip paints have excellent self leveling characteristics they still will dry faster than varnish, thus they need the best prep and the silkiest finish with a high quality tipping brush to cure with a flawless finish. Varnish is so much more forgiving... it's thick honey-like consistency coupled with slow drying time (temp dependent and out of sunlight of course) allows it to self level and flow out like glass. I just did an 8 foot butcher block work bench in my garage with a backsplash, epoxy coated and varnished with Epifanes. I'll take a pic and post it here. I used cheap chip brushes to lay it on and a foam brush to tip it, not flawless but you can't tell from a few feet away and you won't see flaws in the pic either.
 

TomY

Alden Forum Moderator
Jun 22, 2004
2,759
Alden 38' Challenger yawl Rockport Harbor
I like a brush for tipping when I need the mechanical abilities of the bristles to help apply the coating; small cut up areas, vertical surfaces, etc. For rolling and tipping a large area like a topsides, I like a soft bristle brush as there is quite a lot of work in the tipping, top edges, long strokes, etc.

On those cabin sole boards, after an evenly rolled layer of varnish is applied, and with gravity working in your favor, the tipping is more like floating cement with a screed. The foam brush is soft, but solid, and floats -as it adheres to the surface of the coating, even, flat. I light drag on the surface leaves no individual bristle lines, no matter how small there are.

I was able to photograph a 2 part paint rep rolling a topsides in our yard. No tipping. What do you think?
Josh Dolphin 24-2.jpg
 
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Sep 6, 2010
51
Tartan 40 Mattapoisett, MA
That looks really good! You obviously have much more experience than I do. Your insights are much appreciated! Thank you
 
Sep 6, 2010
51
Tartan 40 Mattapoisett, MA
Ok she's going back together nicely.

I still had weight on the starboard side so I couldn't grab a good pic yet.

Looks like I'll be having to refinish the rest of the sole this fall. The new pieces make the originals look awful...
 
Oct 22, 2014
21,088
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
The new pieces look great, Danny. Come on out west. You can help me do my floors. We will sail and work floors and drink beer or RUM...
 
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Sep 6, 2010
51
Tartan 40 Mattapoisett, MA
ok well, the project is now complete! I'm pretty happy with the result.


I need to build a mast step box. I think that would really finish the Salon off nicely.
The only bilge board that is new is the one in the middle. The two small one on either side of the mast step had been replaced by the PO but, never finished properly. the grid and the ones adjacent to the grid are original. The grid piece was in pretty good shape and didn't require stripping but the other boards needed a complete strip and refinish. You can definitely see a difference but, it came out pretty good. The biggest issue with the refinished boards is the holly strips are a darker yellow.

I should be getting the pulls on and the cushions in this week and I'll get some finished photos.

Here is an image of before...
 
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Oct 22, 2014
21,088
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
Pride of craftsmanship... wow those deck shoes have taken a beating. :laugh:
Nice fit detail.
 
Sep 6, 2010
51
Tartan 40 Mattapoisett, MA
Pride of craftsmanship... wow those deck shoes have taken a beating. :laugh:
Nice fit detail.
HA HA! I still wear them!! LOL they are my work shoes! My wife hates them! I don't do EVERYTHING she wants! LOL

There is a lot a variation in color on the floor. Overall I'm pretty happy with the result. Especially when I look back at what I had!

I'm going back and forth on whether to caulk those inside corners or not. This lockers in those seat return were scary before. Dirty and the forward one was all rotted through. It nice to them as nice clean spaces
 
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