Simrad WP30 Worth Repairing?

Jun 11, 2004
1,633
Oday 31 Redondo Beach
The belt is an AT5-825-10.
The Gates part number for this belt is is 77623091. I use this on my Simrad 30.

There are other manufacturers.
The belt is 825 millimeters long and the AT5 means there is a tooth every 5 millimeters. It is 10 millimeters wide. Thus the description as AT5-825-10. Others may call it 10AT5/825 which should work as well. I have had no problem with the Gates. I think it is better than what came with the original wheel pilot.

I would suggest buying two so you have a spare.

If you are interested here are some various notes I have accumulated since I got the WP 30 in 2005 or so. I couldn't get the word file to attach here so just copied the whole thing.


simrad wheelpilot

The face of the WP30 wheelpilot is held in place by screws in the back of the unit. These screws attach to small rollers on which the unit turns. If you loosen the screws to much the roller will come off, but can be put back on.

According to the Simard web site, the Simrad wheelpilots are now own and supported by a company called Simrad Yacthing. Their web site is www.simradyachting.com/default.aspx


\The first thing I did when we got the wheel-pilot home. Before we put it on the boat is to take it apart and work out how to replace belts and such. I then took the fresh new belt I pulled out and took it down to the local industrial drive belt maker. And I got them to make up five matching belts in reinforced new materials that are considerably stronger then the basic rubber stuff that Simrad supplies.

Then I mounted one of the new belts back ont he unit before fitting it to the boat. The Simrad belt gets to sit ina drawer as a guide for the next time I need the factory to make me some new belts.
I am already wishing I had bit the bullet and ordered 8.

Never had a problem and the belts cost me around $35AUD each (that works out to about $23US each).

I was still on the first belt three years alater when the boat went up on the hard for a major refit.

It is just a matter of understanding that NOTHING on a boat is really plug-and-play. It is all componentry, whether the brochure claims different or not.



For WP 10 Sorry, No. Had to dismantle unit to get to the other belt. Belt size was 180 M2 6mm Cost £9.00 + post £8.00



For what it's worth, I just bought the exact belt used in the WP32 for $10.31. Unfortunately, they had a $25 min, so I now have two spares.

I bought mine at LA Rubber. It's a SYNCHROFLEX AT5/825-10 (5mm per cog, 825mm long, 10mm wide).
The installation is a little tricky - one of those "wish I had three hands" jobs.


The AT5 designation defines the spec the belt is made to. ie tooth size,material,strength, etc.
The 825 and 10 numbers are as JimG stated. length and width.
LA Rubber sold me a Gates manufactured AT5-825-10 for $8.30.
Defender wanted $60 and claims SIMRAD is discontinuing carrying the belts.


LA rubber now Mechanical Drives and Belting 800-464-2358

Ordered minimum 2 belts @14.16 each plus UPS 5/27/2008



Another Simrad wp32 fix

I shopped hard before buying and was pretty sure this was a fairly reliable choice but I guess they all have issues. The hanging belt was serious last week when docking in 25-30mph cross wind while a gremlin in the AP had the wheel and wouldn't readily let go!! Freaky at best.

I dismantled the AP after tech support said to take a look inside. Filed 1/10" off all 6 of the wheel support roller screws and a sheet metal screw point found dragging on the inside of the wheel ring. Reassembled and found when retightening the 6 outer rollers that they were binding the wheel ring when fully tightened. Backed each one off a 1/4 turn and the wheel spins free with the clutch released. When engaged it seems to behave now.

This doesn't fix the belt jamming issue but I couln't get it to bind again so I'll give it another sea trial. I noticed how shallow and square cut the track inside the wheel ring was which may allow the belt to bind if its trying to ride out of the track. A deeper track with a slightly angled entry to feed a poorly aligned belt would fix that possibility.

The AP course corrections I obsevered are definatly overly harsh. A simple circuitry/software change could ease an impluse without it being such a stark on/off correction shaking the whole pedistal. It's starting to sound like a product still in RandD with need of a little TLC ASAP. Such is life sometimes


Still hoping to get it right as I fine tune the setup config and clean up the rough edges. Happy to share my findings/mods/success/failures.
Thanks for all the great input.
Michael and Kelli

Belt Replacement

Richard,

I have not replaced my belt on the WP-30 but had to replace a broken interior wheel (there are 5). Just loosen the hex screws on the back and this will allow the wheels to move enough to get them out of their tract. You don't have to take them out all of the way because to put it back together, they must be loose enough to get back into the tract while keeping the belt in place. By the way, I inquired about a new belt directly from Simrad and they told me new belts are not available. What they do is sell you a new clutch kit for about $150 that is supose to be better than the original. My original is working just fine- this seems to be a way to gouge us for more on a simple replacement part. If you do not have a belt, I would suggest looking for older stock in the supply stores.
 
Feb 17, 2006
5,274
Lancer 27PS MCB Camp Pendleton KF6BL
@Richard19068 thanks for the very informative write up. The information here is priceless. Now that I have read and understand the belt requirements, I am sure that my belt will go bad. It just happens that way. Read up on something, then, bang, need to work on it.

And thanks to everyone who have contributed to this thread. With this info, anyone who needs data regarding their Simrad WP will now have access to it.
 
Oct 26, 2008
6,079
Catalina 320 Barnegat, NJ
Great info, Richard. I took mine apart and had some difficulty putting it back together, like you said. Now, I think I will also get replacements and save the original for future reference. Any thoughts on reproducing the spoke clamp? Since I have one, I suppose it could be used as a model for 3d printing. It appears to be a non-structural component. I've asked a few sources about making a mold, but it seems that the mold would be very expensive and probably not worthwhile.
 
Jun 11, 2004
1,633
Oday 31 Redondo Beach
Great info, Richard. I took mine apart and had some difficulty putting it back together, like you said. Now, I think I will also get replacements and save the original for future reference. Any thoughts on reproducing the spoke clamp? Since I have one, I suppose it could be used as a model for 3d printing. It appears to be a non-structural component. I've asked a few sources about making a mold, but it seems that the mold would be very expensive and probably not worthwhile.
I wish there were parts available. For the spoke clamp I was thinking maybe you could get a rubber stopper from a scientific supply or something and cut and drill it to fit over the piece on the wheel pilot. It wouldn't be adjustable but might be better than building up the spoke with tape. Just a thought. I know nothing about the practicalities of 3D printing.

What I need is the black plastic body that attaches to the steering pedestal. Mine is falling apart and now held together with fiberglass and epoxy.

Good luck.