Repair of My '79 O'Day 19

Apr 13, 2018
30
O'Day 19 Rexford, NY
Figured I'd keep a running log of the repair and rehabilitation of my recently purchased/rescued '79 O'Day 19.

She needs quite a bit of work before I'm comfortable putting her in the water. I have to believe she was a bit neglected by previous owners. The hose joining the cabin drain to the transom drain was missing, so there was likely a lot of water in the hull. The extra weight likely caused the port trailer bunk (improperly seated against the hull at an angle) to oilcan and crack the hull just at the front support. It also bent the trailer. So these are my mandatories:
  • Replace the cockpit drain assembly (hose, clamps, cockpit drain, transom drain). I have a temporary workaround in place now, keeping most of the water out of the bilge.
  • Repair the crack in the hull.
  • The starboard hull/deck joint has separated. I'll need to clean it out and reseal it with 3M 5200. There's a few spots on that joint that will need fiberglass repairs, too.
  • Port jib car is damaged, should be replaced.
  • While I've got the boat up on blocks to repair the crack in the hull, I'll drop the trailer off at a local collision shop. Hoping they can straighten the frame and weld support plates in (if deemed necessary).
  • Build supports for the mast while transporting.
  • There's plenty of nicks and dings to the gelcoat that need to be cleaned up.
  • Acquire an anchor, chain, and rode.
  • Drop the centerboard and make repairs as needed. Looks like a good gouge out of the leading edge, from what I've seen so far.
  • Get the mast up, and go over the rigging, lines, and sails.
  • Cleaning & polishing & waxing.
  • Rebed all the deck hardware, repairing cracked gelcoat as necessary, and applying new butyl tape.
  • Get a new latch for the bow hatch.
  • Rig up a method to secure the companionway hatch to the boat. Don't need that going overboard.
  • Replace the retaining lip for the companionway hatch. Left half of it has broken off.
Less important, but I'll want them for daysailing:
  • Small outboard, four to six HP.
  • Clean up & varnish or replace the companionway boards and trim.
  • There's a few spots in the cabin that need fiberglass.
  • Install an inspection port in the interior of the cabin, providing access to the bow.
  • The bow eye had been removed by a previous owner. It should be replaced, and the backing inspected/replaced as needed.
  • A port window on the port side of the companionway. That cabin's awful dark when it's closed up.
  • Interior cushions made up. Wife says if I buy her a sewing machine, she'll tackle them.
  • Swim ladder.
For weekending:
  • Small portapotty or Wag Woo style method of dealing with bodily waste when weekend overnighting on inland lakes.
  • Legal running lights for overnighting, plus the battery & solar charger required. A USB charging system would be nice for phones & portable speakers. 12 VDC for charging laptops would be even better.
  • Small alcohol stove.
  • Small sink, draining to a container I can easily drain/dump as needed.
 
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JRT

.
Feb 14, 2017
2,037
Catalina 310 211 Lake Guntersville, AL
Good luck and you need before pics to start this off right!
 
Apr 13, 2018
30
O'Day 19 Rexford, NY
Her best angle first:


Pretty obvious where I've been using Barkeeper's Friend to clean off the scum from the hull:


She looks pretty good from this angle, too:


Trailer is bent right about here:


You can see where the C-channel's crimped upwards a bit on the top. Needs a good sandblasting and painting, too:


Sure looks like the frame's twisted a bit from this angle, too:

Now for the ugly. Hard to see, but the hull's oil canned here a bit, and that rotted bunk is hiding a good crack. When I first saw her, that bunk was tilted up at an angle. I lifted the bow up a bit and twisted the bunk back to flat. Didn't want it doing any more damage if I walked in the boat:


Whole starboard deck/hull joint is separated. Gonna need to get the joint cleaned out, sanded roughly, pumped full of 5200, then clamped down:


Gonna have plenty of fiberglass & gelcoat to repair on the joint, too:







That plastic bit, probably meant to serve as a bump for the rudder (anyone know the name?) is broken off. There's a snap on it for the canvas cockpit cover, probably overstressed it and snapped it:


Transom bit of my temporary drain repair. Should have this fixed next week, once parts are in:


Cockpit floor has a stress gelcoat crack. Might see if I can get the floor reinforced/braced a bit, since it does flex a bit:


Gonna try to clean up this teak, though I might just replace it. Plywood's worse off than the trim. That said, a little epoxy and varnish, and it'd be fine structurally. Might need to wait 'til next year:


Companionway hatch retaining plate is got a notch knocked out of it:


Weatherstrip needs to be replaced:


A few nicks and gouges on the cover needs to be fixed:


Port jib car is torn up:


Port chainplate for the rigging near the jib car has gelcoat stress fractures, too:


Got a chip in the gelcoat where the hatch sits:


Missing the retaining bits for the forward hatch:


Crack in the "icebox" under the v-berth in the cabin:

And cleaning up a couple of holes I drilled trying to pump the water out of the bow. Should've just gotten it from the bilge. Ah, well. More opportunity to become better at fiberglass repair:


Semi-patched crack in the corner of that "icebox":


Haven't gotten to cleaning the cabin out yet:


Gonna need to fab up some lids & cushions, too:

Shelving edge looks good, but the trim around it doesn't:

Underside of the chainplates and jib cars look good on the starboard side:

Port side looks like it could be resealed:


Odd thing about the tabernacle bolts... two are neatly cut/ground off. Other two aren't:


Different style bolts, too... Phillips vs flat head. Kinda thinking it might be worth popping that off and getting a good look at what's underneath. Just to be safe:
 

JRT

.
Feb 14, 2017
2,037
Catalina 310 211 Lake Guntersville, AL
Not too bad, I'd focus on functional fixes to get her in the water and sailing, cosmetics can wait in my book.
 
Apr 13, 2018
30
O'Day 19 Rexford, NY
Agreed. Fix the stuff that's keeping her from being in the water and sailing:
  • Repair the crack in the hull
  • Repair the starboard deck/hull joint.
  • Bend the trailer frame straight and reinforce the bend area.
  • Replace the cockpit to transom drain assembly.
I don't want to burn out trying to fix everything before putting her in the water... All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy who gives up on the project and never sails again.
 

JRT

.
Feb 14, 2017
2,037
Catalina 310 211 Lake Guntersville, AL
Sounds like a good approach. My O'day came 'ready to sail' and in fact we did sail it right away. I have found plenty of things to work on, first was electrical (DC). Unfortunately the sails and motor only lasted to first season so she is now sporting new power, new teak toe rails and all hardware rebidded. I'm planning a bit of clean up for the seat cushions next but only after I'm sure we are not leaking on them.
 
Apr 13, 2018
30
O'Day 19 Rexford, NY
I'm back in town, after the wife graduated from her doctorate program (Occupational Therapy; we've got a doctor in the family!). Figured I'd tackle that drain replacement, since it "should be easy." Ha!

The plywood core in the transom is definitely rotted around the drain. Did some more poking around the mount holes for the lower gudgeon, and it's rotted there. Did some exploratory drilling up, and I start hitting dry plywood a couple inches below the upper gudgeon.

My current plan:
  • Mark up a template for the lower gudgeon location (done)
  • Mark out a box to cut through the outer layer of fiberglass, preferably inside the edge of the plywood. I can always cut more out later. (done)
  • Remove the outer layer of fiberglass.
  • Clean out the rotted plywood.
  • Bed the plywood in epoxy.
  • Fiberglass over the new core.
  • Drill oversized holes for the transom drain & lower gudgeon.
  • Fill the holes with epoxy (sealing both ends with tape, since the transom's a vertical surface). Using a syringe to deliver the epoxy might help here
  • Either let the epoxy cure properly and wash any blush off well, then use CSM and polyester resin for a final layer, then gelcoat... or just bite the bullet and paint over the entire bottom sides.
  • Drill the proper sized holes for the drain & gudeon.
 
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Aug 22, 2011
1,113
MacGregor Venture V224 Cheeseland
Its good to keep a log of work done.

I have STOPPED keeping track of $$$ spent. Just makes one crazy.....
 
Oct 19, 2017
7,733
O'Day 19 Littleton, NH
theluckyone17,
I like the way you have catalogued your work.
I can't think of anything helpful to add, but you might save money by going with a smaller motor. The Mariner 19, that I own, moves along quite well with 2hp. Most, however, use a 4 horse. I am planning on putting a trolling motor on mine and those that I've talked to, that use them, have no complaints for power and speed. The Mariner is about 600 lbs lighter, so that may not be the case for the O19.

The "oil canning" is most concerning to me. You have a weak spot there and maybe rotten ribs or stringers. If there are no ribs or stringers, you might want to consider reinforcing the area with such.
Good luck and I am looking forward to watching your progress.

-Will (Dragonfly)
 
Apr 13, 2018
30
O'Day 19 Rexford, NY
So far, I've gotten the outer layer of fiberglass cut out, then cut/chiseled/pulled out the rotten rudder backing. I shouldn't have cut down so far, since I'm going to need to wrap the fiberglass under the hull to get a 12:1 bevel. If I had to do it over again, I'd have cut three inches above the bottom of the transom, then dug the rotten wood out from there. Ah well... now I know.

Epoxied new MDO plywood in there, then started layering in 6 ounce weave. It's now more or less level with the bottom of the bevel. I'd keep going, 'cept I ran out of epoxy. I had picked up a quart of it, expecting to use it on the Force 5 dinghy (mast tube crack & backing for the hull repair). I'll order a gallon of resin and half a gallon of 2:1 slow hardener this time around. Temperatures are starting to get up there outside, and having the extra working time would be nice.

I also did some work for a neighbor, who had worked as a yacht broker at some point in the past. Bartered for four fenders that needed some scrubbing. Also paid $25 for an old '46 Johnson Sea Horse 5 HP. Looks to be in good condition cosmetically, which gives me hope that it won't require too much to get running. Gave it a rough compression test on the rope starter, and it felt good. It'll be nice to get a 72 year old engine running... there's history there.

I'm hoping to have her seaworthy by rOnDAYvous on July 13th... Clinton CT's all of three hours away from me. If she's not ready by then, I'll settle for going without... but it would be so very nice to bring her along.



 
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Apr 13, 2018
30
O'Day 19 Rexford, NY
Will be, assuming I can get it running. 'Til then, it's just a fancy, heavy, and rather poor paddle :D.

Gotta say that the oil canning worries me a bit, too, but I'm determined to not worry too hard 'til I get the boat up on blocks, off the trailer, and I can assess the situation up there. Looks like I might have access to the backside from inside the cabin; at the very least I'll need to remove some flotation foam, worst case I'll have to cut a hole in the v-berth "floor". I'll feel better about it once I can take a look at it without the trailer being in the way.
 
Jul 25, 2018
43
O'day 19 MK-II Weekender Narragansett Bay
Hey Lucky 17,
I just bought a 1983 O'day 19 with the shorter 23' 8" mast.
Do you have rigging instructions for the O'day 19 that you could share?
 
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Apr 13, 2018
30
O'Day 19 Rexford, NY
Suppose I ought to give an update... this summer's been filled with a bunch of other projects to keep me from working on the boat. That said, I've got the final layer of fiberglass on the transom repair. Waiting on some fairing compound to come in. Most of the surface is nice and smooth, but there's a few spots on the transition between layers (and the surrounding gelcoat) that need filling in by just a thin layer. Then I'll put a layer of Rustoleum Top Coat primer over it, helping to protect it from UV 'til I can get the rest of the hull repaired & painted.

Got a rudimentary mast support set up on the boat & trailer. It's enough to get it off the front porch, making the wife happy.

It's got a spot reserved at the yacht club's yard across the road... gonna see if I can pay them to use their motorized lift to pick it up off the trailer, then set it down on some blocks & stands. Gotta find some stands, too... possibly rented, though I might pick up a set used.
 
Jul 25, 2018
43
O'day 19 MK-II Weekender Narragansett Bay
Hey theluckyone17,
I am looking for a good used mainsail for my O'day 19, any suggestions where I might find one?
 
Apr 13, 2018
30
O'Day 19 Rexford, NY
Can't say I know a good source for a mainsail, used or otherwise. There was another Weekender for sale an hour or so away with an allegedly almost new mainsail, for $830, but I think it sold. Was very tempted to pick it up just for the spare parts, but I don't have anywhere to store the hull on my 1/3 of an acre.

The transom repair is complete, at least in regards to the rudder backing. Fiberglass is done, faired, and smoothed. Got a coat of topsides primer over it, keeping the UV off the FG. Over drilled the mounting holes for the rudder gudgeons, just gotta drill the centers out and remount them.

Took a stab at the bow eye... even in the last for sale pic I've been able to find, back in 2012, there was no bow eye there. Looks like all the prior owners since them have been tying off the trailer to the cleats, which I don't like. The angle's just wrong, pulling the bow down instead of forward. So I cut an access hole in the interior liner, then trimmed away the flotation foam to get at the bolt and backing wood.

Discovered an electrical plug bouncing around in the same cavity, as well as some loose cardboard. Makes me think some worker cleaned off his workbench into the hull... maybe the garbage can was too far away? :laugh:

After I got the backing out and examined the bolt... it looks like it pulled straight out. I don't see any bends in the broken bolt, though I'd feel better if I had seen the rest of the bolt. The backing looks clean, too... no rot, so it must have stayed dry. The hull around the entry point was covered up in some filler, which I didn't feel good about. I ground it away, and it turned out to be a thin layer over what looks like a decent fiberglass repair. Since I'm going to be painting over the hull anyway, I built up the area with some more fiberglass. Got a spot that's a little low, so I'll apply another layer or two of FG, then fair it out. The hole for the bolt had already been oversized and filled with that unknown filler, but since I was able to chip it away easily from inside the hole as well, I plan on filling the entire hole with more epoxy and drilling it out again. Once that's set, I'll be able to set the bow eye. I won't replace the flotation foam or set anything else permanently until I get the hull painted.

I'll get some more pics of the exterior of the bow eye install once it's cleaned up nice and neat. I'll be putting in an access plate, too, over that ugly hole in the interior liner.







 
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JRT

.
Feb 14, 2017
2,037
Catalina 310 211 Lake Guntersville, AL
Take a look at Precision Sails loft for new sails. They have sales near the end of the year, black friday, and are usually very reasonable.
 
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Apr 13, 2018
30
O'Day 19 Rexford, NY
Got a quote from Precision Sails for a new main sail, jib, and genoa. Comes to $1,300, before tax. That's pretty reasonable as a base price, and I didn't think the add-ons were all that pricey either. Seem like good folk.

Got the epoxy filler around the bow eye and rudder gudgeons sanded down. I had filled in a few other nicks around the bow with the filler, too, so those got sanded down. Drilled the holes out, slathered on the Totalboat sealant, and mounted both gudgeons and the bow eye. Must've gotten the alignment just a little off on one of the gudgeons. The rudder doesn't bind up much at all when turning, but it installs and removes harder than I'd like.



 
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