Damaged Compression Post - Thoughts?

Oct 31, 2017
23
Catalina 22 8728 Trailered
Hello! I've been reading this forum for awhile and really appreciate all the experience that's available. I bought my 1979 C-22 (#8728) last year and have been cleaning, repairing, upgrading, etc. Even found time to get the hull wet twice!

Just uncovered her last week and saw that the compression post is cracked. After removal, I can see that some PO put screws in it parallel to the grain....Crack!

It's the original teak post; I'm hoping to repair it by injecting some glue and clamping, and then bracing some deck screws cross-grain. I'll refinish it after repair, either teak oil or Cetol. Anyone have an opinion if I'm on the right track? Thanks in advance.
 

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  • Like
Likes: Will Gilmore
Sep 14, 2014
1,251
Catalina 22 Pensacola, Florida
Unless you are doing a historical renovation, get a new post, it is cracked the entire length. Not really safe even if patched properly. Just saying.
 
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Likes: Dave Groshong
Apr 11, 2017
571
Catalina C22 Solomon's Island, MD
If you crack it apart & glue it, I'd probably also put in a half dozen long wood screws, perpendicular to the crack. I don't think I'd rely on just squirting some glue in the crack though. Allegedly gorilla wood glue, and most others, are stronger in adhesion than the wood itself. I'd keep a very careful eye on it for a while after repair, just to see how it's doing.
 
Oct 31, 2017
23
Catalina 22 8728 Trailered
If you crack it apart & glue it, I'd probably also put in a half dozen long wood screws, perpendicular to the crack. I don't think I'd rely on just squirting some glue in the crack though. Allegedly gorilla wood glue, and most others, are stronger in adhesion than the wood itself. I'd keep a very careful eye on it for a while after repair, just to see how it's doing.
This was my thought as well (and thanks Jackdaw, that would get better adhesion). Even with the PO's carelessness (just mounted stuff everywhere with wood screws), she's got good bones. The trunk that the post rests on is solid, no squishy, and the post itself is good and tight to the roof.
 
Jan 22, 2008
8,050
Beneteau 323 Annapolis MD
That is a pretty straight "crack". Are you sure it is not a OEM glue seam? The long, Square, end looks more like a table leg, but I'm not a Cat owner.
 
Oct 19, 2017
7,733
O'Day 19 Littleton, NH
Don't screw it.

The glue is as strong or stronger than the wood. Putting additional screws in will only weaken the wood. If you are feeling like more reinforcing is necessary, cut a short piece of stainless or brass tubing of the appropriate diameter and put it around the ends like a tool ferrell.

Jackdaw is right about the direction of forces. You could also add some nautical looking ropework, but really, you won't need it.

- Will (Dragonfly)
 
Oct 31, 2017
23
Catalina 22 8728 Trailered
That is a pretty straight "crack". Are you sure it is not a OEM glue seam? The long, Square, end looks more like a table leg, but I'm not a Cat owner.
Thought that too, but it's not centered and not completely through one end. It looks exactly like a post that's on ebay so I think it's original, but hey, they may have used table legs!
 
Oct 31, 2017
23
Catalina 22 8728 Trailered
Here is a recent thread where someone else dealt with the same thing.

https://forums.sailboatowners.com/i...-compression-post-idiocy.189700/#post-1440780
I did see that thread, but his was broken at the end. Although I took the pattern from one of the replies and am making new leather spreader boots (total cost appr. $12).

I think I will go with completing the split, titebond 3 adhesive, no screws. Will post (heh) updates and pics as I go. Thanks for the knowledge everyone!
 
  • Like
Likes: Will Gilmore
May 23, 2016
1,024
Catalina 22 #12502 BSC
Glue & screws for a quik fix, but were it mine no way, I'd definitely take advantage of the opportunity to get rid of that "bedpost" and install a nice stainless compression post as in the >85 models and be done with it....(btw, I have the bedpost model, and am a woodworker)...my 2 cents...
 
Oct 19, 2017
7,733
O'Day 19 Littleton, NH
I would not use gorilla glue on teak or ipe wood. It does not like the oil in the wood and breaks down after a while
I think I will go with completing the split, titebond 3 adhesive
If you are gluing an oily wood like teak or rosewood, etc. you should wipe the wood down with alcohol first, maybe a couple of times, before applying the glue. Titebond 3 is good. Get good pressure when clamping. I'm sure this is all not new news though.

-Will (Dragonfly)
 
Jun 9, 2004
615
Catalina 385 Marquette. Mi
I thought teak was more sand, not oil. Unless it has been oiled on the inside, of course.
 
Apr 11, 2017
571
Catalina C22 Solomon's Island, MD
Actually, I've seen many similar posts at home depot & lowes. Easiest route might just be picking one out that appeals to you, and just cutting to length and finishing.
 
Sep 20, 2014
1,320
Rob Legg RL24 Chain O'Lakes
+3 on Titebond. You can buy it at Menards. To hold it together, wrap it in plastic wrap. Just keep winding till it is tight. Titebond depends on a tight clamping to force the glue into the pores of the wood. I've seen the original Titebond setup and be stronger than Oak in just the time it took to tighten 2 clamps.
 

SG

.
Feb 11, 2017
1,670
J/Boat J/160 Annapolis
I have the the following concerns:
Why the screws that were put in before? They make no sense unless the post had been split before along the long axis and “fixed”?

Secondly, if the teak has some wood oil or Semco, or whatever, your adhesion with an epoxy (like West Systems’a or whatever) is challenged. I’d clean it with something pretty good unless the wood was really clean. Alcohol might work, maybe Acetone, Depends in what’s there

Personally, a new clean post which is cut to length would be cheaper, faster and more certain for me.
 
Oct 19, 2017
7,733
O'Day 19 Littleton, NH
if the teak has some wood oil or Semco, or whatever, your adhesion with an epoxy (like West Systems’a or whatever) is challenged.
That isn't the oil being refer to in my post. Teak and a few other woods are naturally oily and the mating surfaces should to be cleaned of that oil before gluing. The oil is part of what makes teak rot resistant, but it is also why teak splits and cracks the way it does when it dries out.

- Will (Dragonfly)