Simple (?) wiring question

[Macboy]

The rewiring project is getting closer (because winter has finally seemed to leave at last!). Question for all:

What's the best/proper way to wire up, on a single circuit, an LED reading light which will also have a 12v lighter socket next to it. Do I "tap" off the pos and neg leads with one of those mechanical clamp type things to one component and then attach the running ends to the final component or am I better to "Y" off the end with solder/heatshrink?

If I recall, there is some port bilge pump wiring running under the cabin sole from stbd to port but I think I saw something here somewhere about not running wiring through the bilges. Should I try to go overhead (can I even go overhead?) or is it OK to run under the sole, over the ballast tank to the other side? I'll still have short sections of wiring "exposed" as I jump from the lower inner liner to the upper if I'm remembering how the boat is set up.

 

[Justin_NSA]

Mainsail has a lot of good electrical advice here https://marinehowto.com/category/electrical/
I would crimp rather than solder the parallel circuits together. Never use those crappy squeeze on connectors that just cut the insulation.
An LED lamp won't add too much draw on the feed to both circuits but be sure you have the proper inline fuse to protect the gauge of wire you are using. MacGregor used some pretty low quality wire. I know, I had a '92 26S for 10 years.

 

[Macboy]

Oh my.....that's an expensive little wire crimper! Lists over $300 for us Canucks. Anyone near Edmonton have one and willing to trade a case of beer for a few pre-cut, pre-measured crimps?

 

[LeslieTroyer]

Don’t solder or use vampire taps on boats. Use ring or bent fork terminals on a small terminal block. If the LED’s use a wire size less than the power terminal a fuse may be in order

Les

 

[Macboy]

Don’t solder or use vampire taps on boats. Use ring or bent fork terminals on a small terminal block. If the LED’s use a wire size less than the power terminal a fuse may be in order

Would something like this little crimp work? With heat shrink of course? It seems cumbersome to be putting little screw terminal blocks in each light/12v outlet setup. They'll be mounted right beside each other. And the crimp seems more trustworthy than the triple ring connector thing that looks to be soldered. And I don't want to use spade connections behind the liner.

 

[Macboy]

This crimp. Sorry.....

 

[LeslieTroyer]

I believe the 3-way crimps are ok but I’ll use a terminal block.

Not the straight copper one

Les

 

[Macboy]

For some reason I just can't visualize how I'd put a terminal block at each light/outlet combination. It'd have to be hull/liner mounted right behind the fixtures? Surely you wouldn't just let them dangle free? When you say small terminal block what do you mean?I'm picturing something like: http://www.vteworld.com/content/electromech/busbar/images/dual4point/db_4p.gif but with only six terminals. One side positive, one side negative.

Just seems like a load of hardware for a simple reading light and 12v socket. Especially when I'll be doing it four times behind a hull liner with perhaps very little room to work/play/stash. I do however want to do this right so I appreciate your input and guidance.

 

[LeslieTroyer]

I also have been known to use blue/red barrel connectors and put two conductors on the blue side. Not ABYC compliant but it works.

Les

 

[timebandit]

I would use that and maybe liquid tape to get a good seal. run the heavy load straight and the light off to the side.

Would something like this little crimp work? With heat shrink of course? It seems cumbersome to be putting little screw terminal blocks in each light/12v outlet setup. They'll be mounted right beside each other. And the crimp seems more trustworthy than the triple ring connector thing that looks to be soldered. And I don't want to use spade connections behind the liner.View attachment 149420View attachment 149421

 

[LeslieTroyer]

For some reason I just can't visualize how I'd put a terminal block at each light/outlet combination. It'd have to be hull/liner mounted right behind the fixtures? Surely you wouldn't just let them dangle free? When you say small terminal block what do you mean?I'm picturing something like: http://www.vteworld.com/content/electromech/busbar/images/dual4point/db_4p.gif but with only six terminals. One side positive, one side negative.

Just seems like a load of hardware for a simple reading light and 12v socket. Especially when I'll be doing it four times behind a hull liner with perhaps very little room to work/play/stash. I do however want to do this right so I appreciate your input and guidance.

You only need two independent screws one for +12 and one for ground. Stick up with good double side tape.

Les