A customer in Texas once was ticketed for too much overhang so the trailer was extended by the trailer mfg. as a dealer I dropped the rear support on each side to put the rear strap on. Just make sure you always tie the straps together tight. Once done raise the rear support on each side back up. I marked the position of each support as a reference point.
Boat lift question
- Thread starter caverun
- Start date
What ever you do, make sure you record it, so if it fails, you can post it to YouTube and recover some of your loss.
But seriously, can you move the boat forward or backward on the trailer do the centerboard will drop between the rails? If so, then you can buy a couple of car ramps to back the trailer up onto. That will get the boat high enough to drop the centerboard. Worst case, you can put the trailer on jack stands. You can also dig a pit under the boat.
But seriously, can you move the boat forward or backward on the trailer do the centerboard will drop between the rails? If so, then you can buy a couple of car ramps to back the trailer up onto. That will get the boat high enough to drop the centerboard. Worst case, you can put the trailer on jack stands. You can also dig a pit under the boat.
Daveinet;
Not sure what was mean here in this statement. I only offer information what worked for me as a dealer. I assume no liability. As for your suggestions, I will not comment on. Many on this forum do not have the know how or where with all. If I feel a situation is unsafe, I will not comment on it but will warn and suggest being careful. Enough said.
@Daveinet I did not think of that of you knowing you well from your posts but simply advising that this is advice only and all of us are not liable as it is up to the individual to accept that information. I say it because I use to be an adjuster at one point. However I have also made mistakes. Oh Boy I bet some are going have a hayday with that one. Ha Now getting ready to go out of state helping a hunter owner, See ya as I am leaving at 3:30 am.
I dunno Cave, but here goes. Removal: drop centerboard at ramp. Pick up pieces and put in truck. Installation: position centerboard on trailer, guide into position as you reload boat. Screw with it in the parking lot.
I use a 6x6 block under the mast at the step to (help) keep it from bouncing. Nice pic.
Somebody said once that @Crazy Dave Condon made a mistake. I know this for fact. He got into N scale.
Happy Thursday.
Happy Thursday.
My lift...originally w/ 2ea 1-ton chain hoists for lifting power boats that can be placed on automotive style jackstands. With this boat the trailer must be lifted, the boat secured with 10K tow straps followed by lowering/rolling out the trailer and placing 4X6 beams fore and aft on short cinderblock pedestals shimmed to contact hull. Photo is as the boat sits now, awaiting the second attempt at curing the bracket/roller pin placement question and eliminating the binding interference caused by the suggested lowermost rollerpin position...more to follow
We may be over thinking this. The initial posts showed a timber under compression with the straps going over the side. Seems easy for something to slip. I would suggest using a 8ft 6x6. Hang it from the center. Then use a separate strap to loop under the boat and tie it off on both ends. Let the 6x6 support the whole weight of 1/2 the boat - using 2, one at the front and 1 near the back. A 6x6 timber is plenty strong enough to hold the weight of your boat. I recently threw a 6x6 treated AC2 under my motorhome to land the jacks on it. It was only supported on the ends. The jacks were about 1 ft away from the support. I lifted 13,000 LBS on a single 6x6. It bowed a little. The front was only 7,000 lbs and didn't bow at all. Knowing that, it will easily lift your boat. You can buy a 16ft 6x6 from Menards for 42 bucks. Cut it in half, that will give you 2 beams, 1 for each end.
Google "crane spreader bar" for images then make yours to suit the load dimension...steel drill pipe works really well with 10K towing straps under your load
. Always remember to erect the best available pedestal support .. such as timbers and cinder block prior to working underneath.
Could be used but with the bow and stern not straight but curving is another thing. l have seen something like that used and if looking closely at the rear, the use of a strap at the sides is the way to go. However I would make sure the two lifts are secured together. Then a line between the straps so they cannot come out.