Hunter holly and teak floor
- Thread starter BreakingWind
- Start date
Cleaned it all up and the fiberglass looks fine... will need to cut a piece of 1\4 marine plywood bed and will put a new piece of laminate down.... I am surprised that the floor there has no way of draining water to the bilge ... it could hold 4 of 5 inches of water .... Why is that? dip it out with a cup?
Please DONT use 5200! Satan's glue is great for bedding Keels and other serious structural stuff, but on the interior you should use something that gives a great bond but you could potentially pry or peel up without ripping out the glass laminate with it.
Disregard my previous post about epoxying down old the teak/holly after planning to new plywood. I was under the assumption it was real wood and not a vinyl laminate. Is the old vinyl damaged or discolored? If not it can be re-used if you can get all the old wood and adhesive scrapped/sanded off. Use the old floor to trace out the new 1/4" marine ply piece. Once it's cut out seal both sides with epoxy and sand flat. Two coats, one to soak in and as soon as it kicks hot roll a second coat.
Assuming you can get the old vinyl sheet clean and its undamaged, you should be able to glue it to the wood using natural flooring glue they sell at the big box stores (its basically melted cow hooves). Spreads on with a comb, let dry to tack on both surfaces then place together and seat with a roller. Use the same glue to attach the plywood back to the fiberglass.
thanks cloud diver... I wasn't to sure what to use... I got the old vinyl pretty clean but there is a defect in it, so I will replace it.. It will work great for a pattern.. going to order a 4x6 laminate sheet this week... For epoxy any suggestions?
I like using WEST System epoxy, but there is no sense in buying a quart kit jest to seal that wood. See if you have any friends or boat friends who have a quart or gallon kit on hand and see if you can borrow some for $10. It should only take two or three pumps of resin & hardener to seal each side of that plywood. Worst case, you can buy a 1 quart kit of System Three epoxy on Amazon for a very competitive price.
@BreakingWind
I am the expert here sir as I was involved with the design. The floor pan is one piece and to accommodate a floor so it would be flush and not raised, it was designed to be recessed in the mold with the rest of the floor to avoid tripping, now you get the picture. As for floor adhesive, my suggestion to use Liquid Nails was used by Hunter to attach the floors with but must be trowled all around. Push the floor down completely into the adhesive. Then I would cover the floor adding weight for 24 hours in order to hold it down. Once dry, I taped the edges of the floor and the outer rim of the deck pan as well to spread a bead of Dow silicon pure grade that was used on the windows which comes in black, white or beige at that time. Spread that while soft. I used my finger dipped with spit or alcohol constantly and let dry removing tape. This avoids water getting under the floor so you will not have a mess like you experienced again. Water coming from above was the general culprit and that has been discussed much in the past now in the archives. To prevent that buy a cover for the top of the companionway and make sure you put a throwable cushion underneath the cover. Make sure if boat is on the trailer, The boat is sitting level with the ground. Any other advice on epoxy and other adhesives, you are on your own .
I am the expert here sir as I was involved with the design. The floor pan is one piece and to accommodate a floor so it would be flush and not raised, it was designed to be recessed in the mold with the rest of the floor to avoid tripping, now you get the picture. As for floor adhesive, my suggestion to use Liquid Nails was used by Hunter to attach the floors with but must be trowled all around. Push the floor down completely into the adhesive. Then I would cover the floor adding weight for 24 hours in order to hold it down. Once dry, I taped the edges of the floor and the outer rim of the deck pan as well to spread a bead of Dow silicon pure grade that was used on the windows which comes in black, white or beige at that time. Spread that while soft. I used my finger dipped with spit or alcohol constantly and let dry removing tape. This avoids water getting under the floor so you will not have a mess like you experienced again. Water coming from above was the general culprit and that has been discussed much in the past now in the archives. To prevent that buy a cover for the top of the companionway and make sure you put a throwable cushion underneath the cover. Make sure if boat is on the trailer, The boat is sitting level with the ground. Any other advice on epoxy and other adhesives, you are on your own .
Thanks Dave, that gives a clear picture of what is needed... 1 question is the plywood thickness .. the vinyl is 1/8th and the recess looks to be 5/16th ... was the original wood 3/16 thick?
Update to floor... used a 4x8, finished quality 1/4 birch plywood and cut to pattern, bought 6ft of laminate from Defender and quart of glue from Plasteak . It gave me enough material to make 2 complete floors.
After a few test fits I got the fit just right... Used liquid nails to mount to floor of boat... will add the silicon seal around it in a few days... Over all I am pleased how it turned out... just like new! thanks for all the help
After a few test fits I got the fit just right... Used liquid nails to mount to floor of boat... will add the silicon seal around it in a few days... Over all I am pleased how it turned out... just like new! thanks for all the help
I wonder how the Mahogany and Holly Lonseal would look on our sole?
Our boat had some water intrusion issues when we got her,
and we refinished what we could.
But with the hot water heater leak last year, we now have some very soft floor boards in the galley and quarter berth that I need to replace. New plywood with Vinyl might just be the ticket. I'm just not looking forward to disassembling all of the salon and galley cabinets to replace the floor that runs under them.
Our boat had some water intrusion issues when we got her,
and we refinished what we could.
But with the hot water heater leak last year, we now have some very soft floor boards in the galley and quarter berth that I need to replace. New plywood with Vinyl might just be the ticket. I'm just not looking forward to disassembling all of the salon and galley cabinets to replace the floor that runs under them.
I put in a Lonseal vinyl flooring in my 40.5 ten years ago since I also had some water damage. Although the floor was repaired, there was a notable mis-match. just recently, I replace a couple of boards due to another leak. I was able to remove the Lonseal and re-use it, so no match issue. More than pleased.
Chip, I guess it matters to the structure that is underneath... I used the birch because I was unable to get fir... and after I pattern cut it, I applied a couple of coats of minwax wood hardener... it sucked right in... vinyl was easy to work with, used electric tin shears for the block size.... and a rotary sander after I glued it to the wood to get it to fit...
What do you guys think about using some sort of composite panel as the underlayment for a Lonseal sole. Then I would never have to worry about moisture and rot again? Something like Nida-Core Structural Honeycomb Fiberglass Laminated Panel – H8PP or maybe Tricel board, or Coosa board
I found this place: https://www.merrittsupply.com/product-category/plywood-composite-panels/
I like the idea, I need to replace my floor boards and had a similar thought. These are pricey to me, especially if you add in some kind of faux teak flooring on top, but good food for thought.
I was wondering if I could stiffen a piece of PVC board from HD/Lowe's enough that you could stand on it, but hadn't thought it all the way through.
I like the idea, I need to replace my floor boards and had a similar thought. These are pricey to me, especially if you add in some kind of faux teak flooring on top, but good food for thought.
I was wondering if I could stiffen a piece of PVC board from HD/Lowe's enough that you could stand on it, but hadn't thought it all the way through.
Expanded PVC board is really fragile in stress. The companionway hatch boards I made from it are already cracked around the edges/corners from being accidentally stepped on down below.