Ok fellas how bad is it?

[LakeShark]

So this fall during winterizing we had a lot of rain and I found 2 small leaks on the deck. One on each side comming through the cap shroud stay mount (long side stays). No big deal I have butyl so I removed them easily enough and found no deck rot at all. Yeah a simple fix or so I thought. Upon reassembly I found 1 small rot spot on the bulkheads above the upper bolts where the tangs mount. I decided just to remove the bulkhead on the port side and this is what I found. The bottom is slightly spongy and wet but is firming up now that it is drying out. So the big question is do I have to remake the whole bulkhead or can I just dry it out or can I use something like GetRot to repair what I have? I am a fresh water sailor in MN and the boat lives on its trailer most of the time. So I guess I'm hoping for some good news here as my carpentry skill leave a lot to be desired.

 

[Gene Neill]

Doesn't look dangerous to me.The critical area is what's under the chainplates.

I'd probably use some thin, penetrating epoxy, soak it real good, slap some varnish on it and call it done.

 

[LakeShark]

I like the sound of that! I can just do hat during the long winter months while the boat is hibernating. Any recommendations on epoxy? I have read that smiths penetrating epoxy works well but wondering what others have used on a Catalina 22.

 

[Gene Neill]

I've never used Smith's, although the description certainly sounds perfect. The only thing I've used along these lines is "635 thin" epoxy, from these guys: http://www.uscomposites.com/epoxy.html. It's cheap, and I have no complaints. I don't think you could go wrong with either product, or any other brand's equivalent product for that matter. The wood just doesn't appear to be that far gone.

I would cut 1/4" off the bottom of that bulkhead if possible, so if/when there's another leak, the wood won't sit right in the water, which puddles on the little ledge.

 

[LakeShark]

I would cut 1/4" off the bottom of that bulkhead if possible, so if/when there's another leak, the wood won't sit right in the water, which puddles on the little ledge.

Thanks for the epoxy suggestions and for the idea about cutting off a bit. I must admit this sounds really appealing but isn't the bulkhead needed to stop the hull from twisting under sail? If I cut off a bit wont I be increasing the forces on the hull?

 

[pclarksurf]

CPES (Smiths penetrating epoxy) also an excellent choice I've used on anything and everything wood exposed to water whether it be pre or post damage:

http://www.smithandcompany.org/CPES/
Also agree that the damage looks minor -- get it good and dry, clean epoxied up and re-coat -- good to go if you don't care about aesthetics-- and even then it might sand up to the point no one notices.

 

[Gene Neill]

isn't the bulkhead needed to stop the hull from twisting under sail? If I cut off a bit wont I be increasing the forces on the hull?

I don't think so. Those tiny little bolts across the bottom of the bulkhead certainly don't look structural to me (if I thought they were, I would beef them up immediately, and dramatically), and the only force that ever might be applied to the bulkhead is up, not down.

I shaved a quarter off mine without any ill effects, but who knows. If cutting a little off is gonna worry you ... don't do it. The epoxy soak, combined with fixing the leak, and KEEPING it fixed, will take care of the problem just fine.

 

[CloudDiver]

When determining the extend of wood damage it is less about how it 'looks' and more about how it 'feels'. If its really bad it is obvious (wood fibers just falling apart).
I would suggest stripping all the varnish. After you finish the damage repair areas, brush the whole thing with epoxy before you varnish again. That way if water ever hits it again it won't do anything. By the way, be really, really gentle when sanding those panels, the veneer is so much thinner than you think! (don't ask me how I know this, lol)
I'm not a fan of Smith's at all. For the money it is nothing impressive or special, just a thin viscosity epoxy. WEST, System 3, or MAAS major label epoxies will do the same thing under the right conditions. It is safe (and often done when working in cold climates) to warm the resin. You can warm the epoxy to (West recommends) up to 90 degrees F, that makes it thinner than it usually is. Just going 1 pump at a time with slow hardener you still have plenty of time to apply it to small areas of rot and watch it soak in. For small jobs I like System 3 because you can order small 1 quart kits from Amazon.

 

[brockway]

It's really not that big a deal to replace the bulkhead, especially since yours is still the right shape on the edges and it's already out. I just replaced the port side bulkhead and did the whole thing using a hand saw, heavy duty stapler for the vinyl edging, and a drill. Took an afternoon to make it and another to install it.

Get a new 2' x 4' 1/2" thick plywood board, some kind of hard wood or marine. I used birch since the original obviously wasn't marine either going by how it delaminated. Trace out your old bulkhead with the trim pieces removed onto the new board, cut sand stain and seal, pop back on the trim, and rebed the chainplate with the butyl tape.

I've got pictures of the process in my boats thread.
https://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/my-1986-catalina-22.181622/

 

[TortolaTim]

I had a leaky chainplate this summer and it did a number on my bulkhead. I considered doing an epoxy repair, but decided to replace the bulkhead. I used the old one as a template and cut a new one using marine grade plywood. I was a little intimidated by the project, but I am quite happy with the results. It really wasn't too tough of a job, and I certainly am no woodworker or carpenter! Here are some before and after pics

 

[Will Gilmore]

Before following any of the above advice, which is all good, wash it down, especially around the black mold areas, with a bleach solution (doesn't need to be strong). Kill the mold before encapsulating it. Don't let dry rot work on it under the finish.
Check out my wooden hatch board project post for some ideas on how to refinish. ( https://forums.sailboatowners.com/i...ery-lengthy-project-post.188874/#post-1416389 ). It is just as every one says, not a big deal and pretty easy to do.

Since you can simply unscrew the panel, I wouldn't be concerned it was structural at all. It looks like it is there to provide a division of cabin areas.
- Will (Dragonfly)

 

[CaptDon01]

Since you can simply unscrew the panel, I wouldn't be concerned it was structural at all. It looks like it is there to provide a division of cabin areas.
- Will (Dragonfly)

Bad advice for a C-22, absolutely structural. Read the information in the C-22 Tech Manual on how to make the assembly even stronger.

Don

 

[Will Gilmore]

Bad advice for a C-22,

Good to know.
- Will (Dragonfly)

 

[Bilbo]

This seems to be a pretty common issue with upper shroud chainplate leaks. It's a structural issue and it may also affect the deck core. Epoxy the deck core for rot, fix the leak and then ensure that your bulkheads are strong. I know that sailors hate silicone caulk but I've used this in that area of the chainplate exit several years ago and it doesn't leak anymore. It remains pliable. I believe that this is necessary for the chainplates because they move with the mast a bit and when compressed, the silicone will expand to seal the holes. There may be something out there that would work better but if the product gets rock hard, it will not work properly.
I replaced my teak surfaced bulkheads because of the rot at the bottoms of them. I also completely covered my new bulkheads in West System epoxy including the holes for the 4 chainplate bolts and the slots in the deck where the chainplates exit. . The issue with the bulkheads being structural is that the chainplate and it's shroud will exert a great deal of force pulling up on that windward bulkhead when the boat is heeling.

 

[Scott T-Bird]

You can replace all of that material by ordering from Buck Woodcraft. I've been ordering teak plywood and trim in a variety of sizes. You will probably find a size that fits that bulkhead close enough that waste will be minimal. They always seem to quote a very high shipping price, but then I get a credit for shipping at a reasonable price. Don't know why it works that way.