New O'Day 25 owner

[JRT]

Can anyone tell me the fuse sizes for the original panel on the O’Day 25? I know they are the glass tube fuse that slide into each spot but I wasn’t sure about the length as I thought these came in a few different sizes.

I’m planning to pull new wire for all DC this weekend (running lights, the 4 cabin lights, bilge pump, LED strip lights, electric sink water pump, VHF radio) and for now will be reusing the O’Day fuse panel/switch. I’m adding a battery switch, replacing the battery charger and making the motor wires neat. Although my father in-law wasn’t able to do the work for me he gave me my parts list and diagram to work from.

 

[Ward H]

Hi John,
Can't help you here, my 1980 had circuit breakers, no fuses. Be careful trying to pull any old wires out. I found them to be glued and pinched. Liked they ran the wires on the cabin liner, then lowered the deck on it. I don't think I could use even one to pull new wire through. Good project though.

 

[cb32863]

Depends on length of run and wire size but, usually 15amp. Do your math and get it correct.

 

[JRT]

Ward, that is what my father in-law said too. I plan to run the new wires along the starboard side up under the lip of the headliner. Did you replace your breaker panel? I remember reading your planned update and diagram thread. If you did I would be interested in it as an upgrade to the fused panel I have.

Size wise I was looking for the length of those glass tube fuses, 15 amps is what I was told to use.

 

[Oliver]

Relax people, the real problem is in the bulb casings, they new this for years and don't get me fired up. There is a fix for our old school boats, I'm learning hard way on this, studying. Replace bulb and 14 months later it's dead... get my hands on one of these guys, girls. There is a electric filter you need for our old stuff, little thing, hard to install with bulb. The glass fuse bulbs? Never popped one yet here, 20 amp good old school and if Jack and SV stay out of this old school work or simple just be nice all will be well. And I found that short of shrink wrapping engine I can't keep salt out, dam.

 

[Ward H]

John
I did upgrade to a Blue Sea panel. I also installed a battery switch, USB port and cig port. I switched a lot of my lights to LED at the same time. Fun project.

 

[LeeandRick]

1.25" (32mm) on my 23 4 switch original panel

 

[Oliver]

This picture, the "on red" light burns out, dam bulbs up top burn out too, bad design... I'm trying to find something to chew up and spit... bulb is out top mast, 14 months, that's anchor light but I added extra one 39 inches off Gunwale starboard rear, full " I can see it " value, no ticket please. I don't care that the light switch red light don't work as long as the switch itself works. The round thing is banks, solar on second bank would be nice.

 

[JRT]

I have led red and green bow lights and 3x3 flat led panel lights to install in the OEM lights, plus led strip lights that I haven't decided where they will go.

 

[Oliver]

Amp, unless your using old school uniden electronics 20 amp glass fuse good. The banks and rewire of our boat is a nightmare but I got through it. Took my own mast down and ran new all the way. If you do this get my details please, there is trouble. And you better have a rear running light too.... don't run wires on top of headliner, molding, no ! Think out of the box, top underneath... think, think, think again... And you don't have enough battery power for a LED and a anchor light more than two days... consider one LED for now and square your one anchor light up. Yes this old school boat stuff is a pain but you do day trips, you will be fine, you just must be safety oriented.

 

[JRT]

I'm only working to get cabin an running lights for now. These are what I'm trying.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IR23JGA/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Oliver]

I like them, ok 3 maybe but you have no storage power, I have two with two new batteries bank one and it won't last 4 days with running and anchor lights, maybe a week. Picture

 

[JRT]

We won't be overnighting away from shore power for awhile. I really want everything functional for now. If we do the battery switch I have is setup for 2 batteries and I have a second new battery in my flat bottom fishing boat I would bring.

 

[Oliver]

Cool, safety first but never do and old battery with a new one more than like one night. I think about your kids safety all the time, I have no kids, probably why I think about kids a lot. I'm getting old I guess. This boat has been a pain but she is top dollar, a lot of work. Yes... worth it, she flies faster than those new ones.

 

[Jackdaw]

Each LED fixture draws on average 0.1A of 12V power. A typical marine battery has 100Ah storage, with 50% being max draw.

That mean you have 500 hours of operation total, Two light you could run for 10 straight days and nights before you needed a charge.

 

[Jackdaw]

Nothing wrong with fused panels. But if you ever want to upgrade, replacing all that stuff with Blue Sea Systems gear like Ward did will be a very nice upgrade.

 

[Ward H]

Found this pic of my "new" panel. That light was replaced with a new Marine Beam fixture with one of their Red/White LED bulbs.
The volt meter is not be the most accurate way to check state of charge of the battery but works for me.



I have one group 27 battery. I run my GPS, Depth Finder, Auto Tiller Pilot, occasional LED lights and occasional charge of cell phones. My OB has charging and runs for about 3/4 of an hour for each sailing trip. I went out something like 300 times last season including some late night outings. Battery holds up fine for my use without additional charging.

 

[JRT]

That is the long term plan Jack to upgrade the panel/meter/USB similar to Ward, we eventually will have almost the exact same setup he has as my boat came with a Raymarine ST1000 and Depth Finder that the previous owner hadn't had time to install.

I might not install the depth finder / fish finder as it is pretty basic and go with a combo unit Humminbird unit like this one. The price is reasonable and we probably won't be leaving our sailing lake anytime in the next year. I do have new lake charts and keep a close eye on our location and depth, there is really only one shallow spot coming out of our slip to keep away from that we have been cautioned about. I have always enjoyed using maps and charts myself for navigation.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M2VLBQ...TF8&colid=1BN8GFKHDI7ES&coliid=I1AGXA06GSIVO0

Great work Ward, I'm not very worried about our batter, the chargers that the boat came with seemed pretty poor and beat up so I ordered a new one to install this weekend and give me confidence.

 

[Oliver]

My fish finder, Garmin connects directly to a battery. The sensor at rear so when I hit sand bar then the depth alarm goes off. I don't know what I think about all this other than it's wrong some how.

 

[JRT]

YES! A very succesful day of DC and sail work. I got big help from my sailing friend and banged out the following.

1) Topping lift with 2 loops and clip.
2) Single reefing line
3) Battery selector switch
4) Power to panel, all circuits working
5) Cabin light power
6) Running light power
7) Replaced running lights with new LED lights and housings.
8) Installed VHF radio
9) New marine battery specific charger

I didn't get the cabin lights switched to LED, but should work out next time. Still need bilge pump installed, but water was very minimal. I'll still need to run some additional LED strip lighting too, but that is more a want then need. Long day, but feel much better with cleaned up electrical big time and good charger.