Solo anchoring...

Feb 26, 2004
22,760
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
I've found that anchoring alone is rarely graceful.
I disagree. thinwater is right. It's not that hard, Warren. Get the gear ready to go, pick your spot, walk up forward and drop the anchor while moving backwards slowly (however the conditions make that occur). Then set the anchor. Heck, thinwater and I anchor with our method in less time that it took most of the respondents to type their "why is it so hard" messages!:):):) It's not that hard.

Warren, if you drop it running downwind, you are never quite sure just where your anchor will be when it hits the bottom. Stop-and-drop is much easier, too.
 
Jul 27, 2011
4,989
Bavaria 38E Alamitos Bay
Yeah-- the "first" drop is not that hard; it's the second or third ones that start to kick ones solo ass.:angry:
 
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Jul 27, 2011
4,989
Bavaria 38E Alamitos Bay
Soon after we bought the Bavaria we made a cruise from Long Beach to Santa Cruz Island with a couple of friends who we took aboard at Channel Islands Harbor. They could not stay out the whole time so we took them back to CIH after a week and the admiral and I went to anchor at Coches Prietos on the south coast of SCI. Then, not having much experience with a modern boat (i.e., one equipped with an electric windlass), I anchored by powering the anchor & chain down instead of allowing it to gravity-drop as I now do. After two tries to set the anchor (power down, power up; power down, power up; etc.) in 40 ft, the windlass started smoking on the final (3rd) set. Next day, it froze while recovering with about 60 to 80 ft of 5/16" chain still out plus the 45# anchor; set.:wahwah: The chain is about 2#/ft. So, the initial dead lift after the anchor is broken out would be 125#.:yikes: Speaking of Armstrong! I had to pull that freaking thing aboard, hand over hand, using my weight to hoist over the bow roller. I rested by stopping off the chain using a chain hook on a line led to the bow cleat. Try doing that in a solo situation, in an anchorage open to sea, and with rocks all around, mostly on your lee. Although--I suppose one certainly would seek deeper water and sea room after the anchor is broken out to finish the recovery job. At least then and there, the admiral could keep the boat over the spot. These days, I pay more attention to the condition of the windlass whenever I go out; solo or otherwise.
 
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Nov 8, 2010
11,386
Beneteau First 36.7 & 260 Minneapolis MN & Bayfield WI
Soon after we bought the Bavaria we made a cruise from Long Beach to Santa Cruz Island with a couple of friends who we took aboard at Channel Islands Harbor. They could not stay out the whole time so we took them back to CIH after a week and the admiral and I went to anchor at Coches Prietos on the south coast of SCI. Then, not having much experience with a modern boat (i.e., one equipped with an electric windlass), I anchored by powering the anchor & chain down instead of allowing it to gravity-drop as I now do. After two tries to set the anchor (power down, power up; power down, power up; etc.) in 40 ft, the windlass started smoking on the final (3rd) set. Next day, it froze while recovering with about 60 to 80 ft of 5/16" chain still out plus the 45# anchor; set.:wahwah: The chain is about 2#/ft. So, the initial dead lift after the anchor is broken out would be 125#.:yikes: Speaking of Armstrong! I had to pull that freaking thing aboard, hand over hand, using my weight to hoist over the bow roller. I rested by stopping off the chain using a chain hook on a line led to the bow cleat. Try doing that in a solo situation, in an anchorage open to sea, and with rocks all around, mostly on your lee. Although--I suppose one certainly would seek deeper water and sea room after the anchor is broken out to finish the recovery job. At least then and there, the admiral could keep the boat over the spot. These days, I pay more attention to the condition of the windlass whenever I go out; solo or otherwise.
Great cautionary tale!

How much chain do you have??

I've personally never understood all-chain or long-chain mixed rodes on boats that routinely anchor in very deep water. I'd only go that route if I anchored in shallow water often (limits swing) or med-moored often.
 
Jul 27, 2011
4,989
Bavaria 38E Alamitos Bay
It's 160 ft then 200 ft nylon 3-strand. True. But, I don't routinely anchor in (very) deep water. We're better at it now; routinely, it's between 20 and 30 to 31 ft, which I suppose can still seem somewhat deep if from the Tampa Bay area as we were, or some other cruising venue where anchoring is typically on bottoms shallower than 20 ft. There are many spots here in Southern California were you can anchor in 15-16 ft.:dancing:
 
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Feb 17, 2006
5,274
Lancer 27PS MCB Camp Pendleton KF6BL
Dang KG, sounds like a "Four Seasons" moment with your anchor there.
 
Oct 26, 2008
6,045
Catalina 320 Barnegat, NJ
I disagree. thinwater is right. It's not that hard, Warren. Get the gear ready to go, pick your spot, walk up forward and drop the anchor while moving backwards slowly (however the conditions make that occur). Then set the anchor.
The graceless part comes from the issue that the bow almost always swings to leeward a lot faster than the stern, due to windage. It sounds easy to say back straight down slowly. It rarely works that way. I agree that when you snub the anchor after laying it out, the bow should straighten out. It's just not always all that smooth. I do use the soft set first approach with less than 7 to 1 scope, then I go forward again to lay out 7 to 1 and go back to do a hard set. I will reduce scope when the water is deeper (in Lake Hopatcong, I anchored typically in 25' to 30' depth) but now, the depth is usually less than 10' and most of the time, that includes the height of the bow! I'm usually set with less than 100' out.
 
Dec 25, 2000
5,702
Hunter Passage 42 Shelter Bay, WA
I thought the kellet had gone the way of the RDF. With "years and hundreds" of anchorages on a 42' boat swinging a Danforth and kellet ground tackle system you should buy a few lottery tickets Terry!
Sorry, never bought one and never will. And I don't gamble. That is why I prefer my anchoring system; always a winner.
 
Mar 26, 2011
3,401
Corsair F-24 MK I Deale, MD
The graceless part comes from the issue that the bow almost always swings to leeward a lot faster than the stern, due to windage. It sounds easy to say back straight down slowly. It rarely works that way. I agree that when you snub the anchor after laying it out, the bow should straighten out. It's just not always all that smooth. I do use the soft set first approach with less than 7 to 1 scope, then I go forward again to lay out 7 to 1 and go back to do a hard set. I will reduce scope when the water is deeper (in Lake Hopatcong, I anchored typically in 25' to 30' depth) but now, the depth is usually less than 10' and most of the time, that includes the height of the bow! I'm usually set with less than 100' out.
It doesn't matter if the boat cocks to one side. Mine does too. Just let it drift.
 
Dec 1, 1999
2,391
Hunter 28.5 Chesapeake Bay
While I have dropped the anchor while solo sailing a number of different ways, I really don't like leaving the cockpit to go forward when alone in an anchorage. I've had a few experiences when the wind shifted with me on the bow and no one in the cockpit at the helm. Run back to the helm? Drop the anchor and hope for the best? Dropping the anchor from the stern avoid these kind of surprises.
 
Jul 27, 2011
4,989
Bavaria 38E Alamitos Bay
It's 160 ft then 200 ft nylon 3-strand. True. But, I don't routinely anchor in (very) deep water. We're better at it now; routinely, it's between 20 and 30 to 31 ft, which I suppose can still seem somewhat deep if from the Tampa Bay area as we were, or some other cruising venue where anchoring is typically on bottoms shallower than 20 ft. There are many spots here in Southern California were you can anchor in 15-16 ft.:dancing:
Going a bit further with this. There are spots at Coches Prietos where you can anchor in less than 20 ft--close to the beach when sea conditions are settled. Doing so requires use of a stern hook led to the beach itself and dug in there. Around the Channel Islands, the decision to anchor on deep (e.g., 40 ft or more), versus shallow, bottoms is unusually associated with how close to shore one wishes to be. If close enough to anchor in less than 20 ft, as I said above, you might need a stern anchor to keep you off the beach shore or rocks--whatever it is that you are near. I routinely anchor in 20 to 31 ft b/c that's the depth range that typically puts me as close to shore I wish to be, but not always. It depends on which anchorage I happen to be in. The point there--to have enough room to swing around w/o hitting rocks or a shoal bottom. If I wish to drop shallower--then, it's get out the ol' stern anchor, etc. I like the long chain rode with 200 ft of nylon b/c I find it is the most versatile set up for me. It's true--I bought the boat with that much chain already aboard. But, I can appreciate it myself now even though I doubt the first owner ever did. (There's was no evidence that he ever went anywhere!)
 
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Gunni

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Mar 16, 2010
5,937
Beneteau 411 Oceanis Annapolis
The graceless part comes from the issue that the bow almost always swings to leeward a lot faster than the stern, due to windage. It sounds easy to say back straight down slowly.
Drifting down sideways is normal and common. Part of the "don't be in hurry" thing. Your anchor is down and you are stretching your rode out. Smoke if ya' got em. The process is under way. Even after you get your scope out and the boat lines up with anchor give it some time to wiggle in. Then with rudder centered power up and set your hook deep.
 
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Feb 26, 2004
22,760
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
The graceless part comes from the issue that the bow almost always swings to leeward a lot faster than the stern, due to windage. It sounds easy to say back straight down slowly.
But, but, but...

If it's blowing enough to push your bow down, that's perfect, 'cuz all you do is lower the anchor. No need to "back out" at all. I used to do this every afternoon on SF Bay. Much easier than singlehanding with a motor in reverse.

Scott, with your 10-15 feet now compared to your old stomping grounds, it should actually become easier.

I moved from 12-20 ft. to 21-35. No windlass.

Hey KG I hear ya! :):):)
 
Mar 26, 2011
3,401
Corsair F-24 MK I Deale, MD
While I have dropped the anchor while solo sailing a number of different ways, I really don't like leaving the cockpit to go forward when alone in an anchorage. I've had a few experiences when the wind shifted with me on the bow and no one in the cockpit at the helm. Run back to the helm? Drop the anchor and hope for the best? Dropping the anchor from the stern avoid these kind of surprises.
Why run? In fact, the best thing you can do is often to slow down. BTW, I have a deep cockpit, I've had 2 knee surgeries, and I don't run anywhere. Unless it is positively howling (which it will not be in a Chesapeake Bay creek) the boat will be drifting backwards at less than 1-2 feet per second. Drop the anchor. Lower the chain. Attach the snubber. Then you still have 20 seconds to get to the helm before the rode draws tight. If you don't get there in time, there are 49.5 chances in 50 it will catch well enough to effectively stop the boat (dragging too slowly to measure). You're probably moving less than 100 feet per minute before the rode tightens, and the engine is running if needed.

Alternatively, you can begin very light snubbing when the scope reaches about 4:1 scope, just enough to regain control of the bow. But it doesn't really matter if the boat drifts sideways; mine does that all the time, most likely because the helm was still over from the last turn. No harm.

I don't think there is any risk here. If you are not comfortable moving on deck in a creek, perhaps your deck is too cluttered or something. Does it drag once in a while? A good anchor will almost NEVER drag under light wind alone, but sometimes if I rush power setting in bottomless Chesapeake ooze it will. I simply motor forward, pick a new spot, and do it again, more carefully. If for some reason the anchorage is unbelievably crowded, either go elsewhere or use your stern method, although going elsewhere is probably better.

My suggestion is to do it over and over and really drill the method. There is no substitute for focused practice when a task eludes you. I'm sure I've looked silly docking, tacking, jibing, reefing, or anchoring repeatedly for practice when something was not working smoothly for me. But it worked. Focus on the task and critique your work--that's what they had you do in school, in every sport, and that is what racers do. It works for cruisers too.
 
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Dec 29, 2008
805
Treworgy 65' LOA Custom Steel Pilothouse Staysail Ketch St. Croix, Virgin Islands
For us, the part that typically will cause me to raise and reset the anchor is when the wind blows the bow off my set point before I can get the anchor on the bottom. Then it may have me lined up too close to another boat. Obviously, this is really only an issue in a tight anchorage with lots of boats already anchored - usually in the spot I was planning to get... In these cases - a tight anchorage - the prudent thing to do would probably be to find a different anchorage. But then, if it is getting close to dusk, I really dislike the prospect of anchoring in the dark. The solution to that is to plan to arrive early in the day, as in between 9-11 AM local. That is when anchorages tend to start thinning out, and space opening up.
 
Dec 29, 2008
805
Treworgy 65' LOA Custom Steel Pilothouse Staysail Ketch St. Croix, Virgin Islands
(3) drop the anchor from the stern; (4) let the anchor set after 30 feet or so while securing the rode to a stern cleat; (5) once the anchor is set, walk the rode outside of the lifelines and secure it to a bow cleat;
Not sure this would work well for us. On each bow anchor, we have 400' pf 5/8" chain, at about 3.8 pounds/foot. I recently ruptured a bicep tendon just trying to take a twist out of it when we had 200' out at Cooper Is. We'll have to stick with the conventional method of approaching the anchor drop point into the wind!
 
May 23, 2004
3,319
I'm in the market as were . Colonial Beach
Why does this have to be complex. I find it easy to pick up and drop anchor single handed. I motor into the wind, shift to neutral and wait until the boat glides to a stop. I then move forward and let the anchor out and play it out until it is out a ways. I pull the rode a few times to feel it grab and then I let more rode out to where I want it. I tie it off and then wait until the boat pulls tight on the rode. I then go back and back down on the anchor pretty hard.

That sounds complex but it is SO easy. It is easier to set then it is to pick it up. Picking it up in a crowded anchorage requires a bit of finesse but I can do it.