1. My O'Day 322 has only two wires going to the bilge, a hot and ground. The hot is switched by a breaker on the CB panel.
This is ok for a "primary feed" but your bilge pump MUST use a fuse no larger than the pump makers recommended fuse size. It is much more preferable that your primary fuse or breaker be wired to an "always on" bus or direct to the house bank positive un-switched bus and that your three position switch has the proper sized fuse in it for the pump.
I had wired the automatic wire pump to this hot wire, and leave the breaker on. A friend also has a 322 but he says he has three wires, one hot direct from the 3 way switch or battery (not sure yet), a second wire switched by a breaker as mine is, and a ground. He wires the always hot to the automatic lead, the switched hot to the manual lead, and the ground to ground.
For a three-way bilge switch (AUTO-OFF-MANUAL), always recommended, this is the correct wiring diagram to use.
Please pay close attention to the switch being in the positive conductors NOT the negative.
Would you recommend I add a 2nd "always" hot wire to power the automatic side of the pump, and use the breaker switched hot as a manual pump like my friends? Or, wire the switched wire to the pump automatic lead, no wire to the manual, and use the breaker to arm the automatic pump?
I would recommend you purchase a good three-way bilge switch, follow the diagram above, and use the correct size fuse for the pump. Wiring should be 3% volt drop max..
A "properly" designed bilge pumping system for a boat over 25' will look like this.
Emergency Pump = Largest Rule or other
centrifugal pump you can physically fit. Pair it with an Ultra Safety Systems Junior or Senior float switch set at a higher level. (IMPORTANT: DO NOT USE CHECK VALVES ON CENTRIFUGAL PUMPS)
Nuisance Water Pump = Diaphragm pump (check valves are okay on diaphragm pumps) and an Ultra Safety Systems Junior or Senior float switch set for lowest desired water level.
Note: All wiring for electric pumps shall be sized for no more than a 3% voltage drop.
Manual Pump = Henderson/Whale etc. with no check valve just a strainer.
2. The reason I'm looking at my bilge is my Rule-Mate 750 Automatic float failed. Luckily I observed it and was able to manually empty the bilge. My boat is wintering in the water this year, so I'm anxious to get a new float switch on board. I see you recommend the Pump Float Switch Junior, which I'm ordering today, but I'm wondering about mounting. I don't have room for a bracket as I've seen you use, as my bilge is rather small, maybe 2 feet long, 6-8" wide and 8 or so inches deep (going by memory here). From the info on Amazon, it comes with a bracket to attach to a round pump. Do you have a recommendation for the pump?
Thanks.
Folks really need to stop buying this crap. (grin) Rule-Mate or Rule Automatic pumps = JUNK. Rule float switches = JUNK. Standard Rule two wire centrifugal pumps are still marginally reliable. Use the biggest one that will fit preferably a 2000GPH or more.
I would urge all boaters:
Do
not share hoses
Do
not share thru-hull fittings
Do
not use check valves on centrifugal pumps
Do
not use corrugated hose
Do
not allow any
dips/water traps in outlet hose
Do
not fuse the pump at beyond the manufacturers suggested fuse size
Do
not use any 90 Degree fittings
Do use smooth walled crush-resistant hose
Do buy the biggest pump you can fit
Do use quality bilge switches
Do use waterproof splices
Do keep all terminations out of bilge water
Do use wire that results in the least voltage drop
Do use a dual or tri-pump configuration
Do install a high water alarm
Do use a siphon break