Toe-rail bolt size???

[Ed H]

Does anyone know the size of the toe-rail bolts on a 1981 Hunter 33 ??? I have decided to install bow cleats on my toe-rail and I want to utilize a toe-rail bolt for one of the cleat fasteners. I won't be back to my boat for a couple of weeks. Thanks guys. ED H

 

[Ed Schenck]

Not sure what you are doing but the H37 bolts through the toe rail and deck are 1/4". I think they are 4" in length. Pretty sure the H33 is the same.

Is this for a spring line near midships or actual bow lines? If you bolt a cleat on the deck portion of the toe rail you won't be able to get a decent size line on there, no space between the inside of the cleat and the toe rail. Since the bolts are 6" between you will need to drill for a second bolt. And I don't know that I would secure an H30 with two 1/4 inch bolts.

 

[JimBr]

Not sure what you are doing but the H37 bolts through the toe rail and deck are 1/4". I think they are 4" in length. Pretty sure the H33 is the same.

Is this for a spring line near midships or actual bow lines? If you bolt a cleat on the deck portion of the toe rail you won't be able to get a decent size line on there, no space between the inside of the cleat and the toe rail. Since the bolts are 6" between you will need to drill for a second bolt. And I don't know that I would secure an H30 with two 1/4 inch bolts.

PO added midship cleats by adding a custom fit 2x4 block between cleat and toe rail. It works okay. I gave thought to cutting out a section of the vertical portion of toerail and remount cleat right to toerail, but thought better of it. I saw a 37.5 legend with an aluminum spacer block the dimension of the cleat base mounted under the cleat. it worked well. I agree, 1/4" x 3 or 4".
Jim
H143

 

[H30Gary]

Ed H: Let us know how it goes. I'm thinking of doing the same thing on my H30, but a little leery of cutting away the vertical part of the toe rail. Could put a block of Al or G10 under the cleat to raise it above the toe rail as JimBr posted, but think this might look funky.

Let us know which way you go.

 

[Ed H]

I was going to cut away the vertical part of the toerail, but I think I like the aluminum block idea better. But would the higher pull create too much leverage?

 

[Angus Fleming]

I've thought of buying these toerail cleats, that bolt on to the toerail with 150mm hole centres. Being higher than the rail negates the need for a fairlead.

Angus


http://www.proboat.co.uk/item.asp?prod_id=732&cat_id=33

 

[Ed H]

I've thought of buying these toerail cleats, that bolt on to the toerail with 150mm hole centres. Being higher than the rail negates the need for a fairlead.

Angus

http://www.proboat.co.uk/item.asp?prod_id=732&cat_id=33

Thanks Angus- I did not know about these. I definately will order a pair for mid-ship spring lines. But I wonder if the vertical part of the toe rail would bend if I used these as cleats on the bow for the docklines. (in a big storm, I tie up with the bow facing the wind; lots of pressure at a critical time.). Ed H

 

[H30Gary]

Probably if you kept the cleats a foot or so from the end of the toe rail they'd be OK. But I don't particularly care for the look of those bolt on cleats. I think your original idea of cutting away some of the vertical part of the toe rail and thru-bolting thru the toe rail and into the deck would be stronger and look much nicer. You could use a cleat with a base that has four holes - two thru-bolted thru the toe rail and the deck and two thru a spacer and into the deck. That would be bullet proof. My concerns would be: 1) how to make the cut out look nice and even, and 2) how to finish off the now exposed bare aluminum (prime and paint I guess.)

 

[Ed H]

H30 Gary- good points; more to chew on.....