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Media added by Joe11688
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A
1975 o'day 22
will be changing to led lights both mast and cabin along with nav lights. adding solar, adding bbq, rebedding all deck hardware and below water...
Oct 19, 2023
Looking forward to V-berth.
Wow.....dream home!
Sep 18, 2023
D
MacGregor 26s
Das sind Teakleisten, die aufgeklebt, dann mit Schwarzer Masse ausgegossen und geschliffen wurden. Sieht immer noch aus wie neu.....
Aug 25, 2023
P
Marilee-Interior.jpg
This interior is gorgeous! What type of boat is this in?
Jan 10, 2023
DSCN8846
CHILD LABOR
Aug 29, 2022
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IMG 0009 I mounted single sheaves to the lifeline stanchion bases for the control line. If you're thinking of buying a furler, figure on getting enough line to go back to where ever you want your cleat plus what you need for wraps around your drum when the sail is pulled out.
Joe11688
Jan 23, 2013
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IMG 0007 Here's a better pic of the cleat. The long section of the cleat is where it jams or snubs off the line. This is great if you need to reef your Gennie.
Joe11688
Jan 23, 2013
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IMG 0006 I needed to move my roller furler drum control line cleat to a spot on the combing where I could reach it easy for single handing. These boats came with a regular horn cleat on the Starboard corner of the cabin. Not good, IMO. The cleat in the pic is a used jam cleat which I picked up real cheap in a marine consignment shop in Newport RI. You only need to take one turn of the line around the cleat and it should jam. The cleat needs to be mounted at a slight angle for this to work though. I had to mount the cleat straight because the combing is too narrow, but adding a single sheave to my stern rail provides that needed angle provided that your wrap the control line around the jam cleat clockwise.
Joe11688
Jan 23, 2013
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IMG 0001 While I was working on cutting that bulkhead for my boat hook and whisker pole, I built this combination shelf/towel rack and secured it to that bulkhead by the companionway. You can see my boat hook in the pic. Hey, there's a picture of Penelope! She's my First Mate don't sha' know. :)
Joe11688
Jan 23, 2013
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DSC01189 Here's what that cubby hole looks like without the rear bulkhead. As you can see, there's plenty of room in there for long poles. You know? The great thing about storing the poles in this area is; when you enter my cabin, you can't even see these poles. The Whisker Pole is hiding behind the companionway bulkhead and you would need to take a peak into that cubby hole to see it. Otherwise you would know it was in there. These cabins are small and you need every bit of useful space that you can get. I've even omitted the mattresses that were in there to gain more space and obtain easier access to my compartments. OK,--so it's only four inches by a few feet but my gear slide in and out of there a lot easier than over a mattress. I'm even able to put my extra 26 quart cooler into that Port cubby hole. Plus the fact that my cabin seems to look less cluttered now.
Joe11688
Jan 23, 2013
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Mother of all mods 005 I figured, what the hey, I'll hang my fishing pole up in there too.
Joe11688
Jan 23, 2013
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Mother of all mods 003 I had bought some stainless steel hooks years ago and never used them because of the fabric headliner material in my cabin. The only quick solution for using them was to screw them to small square pieces of 1/4" plywood and cementing Velcro to the backs. It works. You need to buy the Velcro in an automotive store. Regular Walmart Velcro really isn't strong enough to hold boat poles.
Joe11688
Jan 23, 2013
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Mother of all mods 004 If you look to the right in this pic you can see my whisker pole laying against the side of the inside cockpit. My "pig stick" and 12' telescopic boat pole are on the other side against the inside hull.
Joe11688
Jan 23, 2013
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Mother of all mods 001 I call this The Mother of all mods." It turned out to be one of the most clever and easy mods I've ever to this boat. Why didn't I think of this one before? We're looking aft in that Starboard quarter birth cubby hole. That rear plywood bulkhead used to extend up into that inside combing and I remember removing it years ago when I refinished all my woodwork but I couldn't remember if there was any useful space in there. So I figured that if I could remove that bulkhead I could find out real quick. I've always needed a place to hang my boat hook and just recently my friend Del Grindle gave me a nice Forespar Whisker pole which is about 6.5' when it's closed. At any rate, I removed the bulkhead and cut it. I made a Teak cap rail for it and like a dumbbell I decided to cover it with rug. I could have done the same thing with pine! Oh well. Some days you just can't win for losing. :)
Joe11688
Jan 23, 2013
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DSC00738 In the picture you see my traveler, and manual bilge pump. Also pictured is the mount for my galley table which has a similar mount down below on the galley cabinet. By the way. I replaced that Nic Fico Traveler with a Harken rope and pulley traveler last summer of 2012. What a difference that made on my boat! The pump handle is detachable and the plate is inserted back in the hole. I've never had to use this pump. Thank the good Lord for small favors.
Joe11688
Jan 23, 2013
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DSC01202 All I can say is, if someone knows where the machinery is to start manufacturing these extension brackets, they could make a mint just selling them on the market to the folks who want to convert powerboat trailer into sailboat trailer. "Nuf said" on that subject. As you can see in the pic though, all you need is a couple of jacks placed under these extension brackets and you can snug the bunks right up to the hull with the boat sitting on the trailer. It was as easy as that after I had got the proper tongue weight on the trailer. First I needed to get the boat out of the water. To do that I set the bunks just a shade higher. When I pulled the boat out of the water, the bottom of the keel was sitting about 1.5" off the keel board with the bunks taking the full weight of the boat. What you don't want is the keel sitting on the keel board and the bunks too low and have the boat leaning when you pull the trailer up the ramp. All I had to do is place two of my sailboat stands, one on each side of the stern to keep the boat straight and use a hydraulic jack under the bow of the boat and start lowering the boat so that the keel would sit squarely on the trailer's keel boat. I may have use four of my boat stands under the stern that day. I really don't remember. Four is always better than two especially under an O'Day 26 which I lifted for my friend Ray one day. After I was able to get the keel sitting on the keel board, I tightened the bunk brackets and unhooked the trailer from my truck and place a bathroom scale on some blocks under the trailer tongue. The trailer needs to be level when you get the weight reading. As it turned out, she was too tongue heavy so I had to back down the ramp and let the boat float back a little to lighten her up. A good rule of the is 5% to 10% for the tongue weight so you need to know what your boat weighs fully found to come up with a good tongue weight ratio. If there's too much weight at the end of the trailer, the trailer is going to fish tail as you're driving down the road. Too much weight up forward is not good either. After I got 110 lbs for my tongue weight, I placed two of my jacks under the center extension brackets under my main bunks and raise the bunks so that they would support the hull. I took measurements on these and came up with 18.5" from the top of the cross member to the top of each bunk on both sides and I tightened the bracket bolts up. Then I moved the jacks to the two front brackets and raise the ends of the bunks to get 21.5". This puts a bend in the bunk boards which conform to the hull nicely. The two back brackets came to 20.5". Just remember that these measurements are useless unless you have a similar make and model trailer as mine. As you can see, my cross members are straight. Some are curved. Also, the keel is sitting on two pressure treated planks which are secured to the top of the cross members. I didn't see a need to mess with the short bunks under the bow. They needed to be removed and repositioned to take on a V shape under my bow for good support and I could do that later after I got her home. All that was left was to move the winch stanchion back so that the bow is up against the pedestal's bow roller. I had to remove the stanchion and place it on the tongue, inside the trailer's A frame. It looks funny but that's where it needed to go after all, this trailer was built for a 23' boat don't sha' know. The boat floats on and off the trailer without swamping my truck and I have no need for an extension tongue. This is why I say, buy a longer trailer than needed for your boat and it can work for your boat, depending on the depth of your keel of course. My boat is an O'Day 222 Keel/centerboard sloop but I think that this rule of thumb will work for an O'Day 25 or 26. It may even work for an O'Day 272 wing keel sloop.
Joe11688
Jan 21, 2013
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DSC01201 These brackets are the best I've seen on the market today. As I mentioned previously, Long is out of business. They were located in Tarboro NC. Although there is another trailer company with that same name in NC, they are not and never have been affiliated with with the company that built my trailer. It' too bad because I'd love to see a company start manufacturing this long extension brackets for guys who own keel/centerboard sloops and want to trailer them. These brackets could fit any trailer cross member. They are really the only thing that makes converting an ordinary powerboat trailer into a sailboat trailer.
Joe11688
Jan 21, 2013
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DSC00740 My trailer is 23' long and 8' wide at the fenders. I'm pretty sure that my bunks are 4' apart at the stern as you're looking at it now. There are two long main bunks being held up by six 24" bunk extension brackets, three on each side. The two shorter bunks under the bow are held up by four of these brackets. The bracket are set approximately in the range of 20" to 22" from the top of the A frame to the top of the bunks.
Joe11688
Jan 21, 2013
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DSC00742 Like a dumbbell, I left those two two schedule 80 2" PVC pipes on those guides while trailer the boat and the 2" cap on the one on this side broke. If you buy these guides, remove the pipe when you trailer the boat on the road. You only need them when your at the ramp.
Joe11688
Jan 21, 2013
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DSC00741 Here's what she looks like sitting on the trailer. I think the tongue weight is about 110 lbs. When I first bought the boat trailer, I brought it home and installed the sandwiched planks. Then I took two of my SB-3 Brownell's Boatyard stands with me, along with my bathroom scale. I had two jacks in my pickup truck to uses also. I don't think I even bothered messing with the two short bunks under the bow until I got my boat home on this trailer. The main bunks are the important ones that need to be set up. The bunks under the bow could be set up later on after I had the boat on the trailer.
Joe11688
Jan 21, 2013
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DSC00402 As you can see. These brackets are strong square stock galvy tube and they are completely adjustable. If you can't find brackets like these you may have to have them made up special or have a welder make up something like poppets for boat stands that you can adjust. I really don't know what to tell you on that.
Joe11688
Jan 21, 2013
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DSC00401 So what we have is a trailer that's about 23' long and 8' wide at the fenders. It's has four 14" wheels on tandem axles. The frame is Aluminum and the cross members are galvinized steel. There are six 24" galvy extension brackets that support the main section of the hull with two long bunks and four more 24" brackets with two short bunks for the bow support. I had to re-position the two short bow bunks and get them close together where the bow comes to a point. It was just a matter of taking the brackets off the bottom of the bunks, repositon them and drill and lag them into the desired position.
Joe11688
Jan 21, 2013
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DSC00403 This is my 23' Long Trailer when I first brought it home. Unfortunately Long went out of business shortly after I bought this trailer. Such a shame. It too bad that some company somewhere can't manufacture the extension brackets for those bunks because they are the best I've seen on the market so far and they easy to adjust with the aid of a couple of jacks with the boat sitting on the trailer. That's how I adjusted all my brackets after I got the proper tongue weight, but that's another story. This trailer came with a thick rug covered keel board and I told the dealer to keep it. What you see in the pic is a couple of pressure treated sandwiched 2x10" planks held to the cross members with a couple of galvanized brackets that were given to me by the city power company. I picked up two brackets which are nothing more than a back strap, two 5/8" X 6.5" carriage bolts with washers and nuts. I have the carriage bolt heads counter sunk below the surface of the top plank where the keel sits. This insures that the keel won't hit the bolt heads. The plates bolt up against the bottom of each cross member. The only holes I have bored are through the wood planks and not the cross members. This works out great because I can loosen the carriage bolt nuts to loosen the back plates and be able to slide the keel board to one side or the other. I do this when I take my boat off the trailer in my yard and place her on boat stands, but that's another story. Those two guide that came with my trailer are great for centering my boat when I'm loading her on the trailer at the YC boat ramp. Some guys install keel guides but these guide are all you need, really.
Joe11688
Jan 21, 2013
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Lineman's Rolling Hitch 005 I call this hitch the "Lineman's Rolling Hitch." I doubt if you'll find this one in the knot books or anywhere else on the web. It's easy to tie and has a million uses. You can tie this hitch and move the rope coils forward or back but once you pull on the standing part of the line, she tightens right up. This hitch tied around an 1/8" stay with 3/16" braid will not slide once the strain is applied to the standing part of the line. I sometimes tie a single sheave to this line and use it to hoist my shower bag up high on my back stay. I found this hitch to be useful in securing my CDI Furler vinyl luff to my Gin Pole when raising/lowering my mast. Check out my mast raising/lowering album for pics of this. It's a great hitch.
Joe11688
Jan 4, 2013
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Lineman's Rolling Hitch 003 Now bring the line back to the front of the wraps and tie at least two half hitches around the object. I'm about to tie one half hitch in this picture.
Joe11688
Jan 4, 2013
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Lineman's Rolling Hitch 002 Then bring the bitter end back around and in between the standing part of the line and the object you are tying. You can take it through either from left to right or right to left. Because I'm right handed, I usually take the rope though so it come out toward me which is different to what is seen in this picture.
Joe11688
Jan 4, 2013
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Lineman's Rolling Hitch 001 To tie this hitch just take about five or six wraps around anything like rope, wire, a spar or even a roller furler vinyl luff. Always wrap the line away from you.
Joe11688
Jan 4, 2013
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DSC00729 This is what the companionway step looks like when it's in place along the sole plate covers. When I first bought my boat I had a heck of a time getting my cooler in the area behind this step. I had to remove the quarter birth cushions on the left in the picture, and slide the 48 quart cooler in, behind the step each time. Boy what a PITA that was!!! After I modified the step, it became easy to lift my 50 qt. cooler over the mounts after removing the step. Last year I omitted those two quarter birth cushions in those cubby holes under the cockpit seats. They really aren't needed and I gained more space for a second cooler and all my gear. My cabin looks less cluttered now and I have better access to my settee compartments in there.
Joe11688
Dec 28, 2012
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1986 OD 222 Centerboard I made a sketch of my centerboard when I had it out. I also posted a sketch of my friend Ray's 86 O'Day 26 centerboard on this site in the download section.
Joe11688
Dec 28, 2012
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