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Media added by Joe11688
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A
1975 o'day 22
will be changing to led lights both mast and cabin along with nav lights. adding solar, adding bbq, rebedding all deck hardware and below water...
Oct 19, 2023
Looking forward to V-berth.
Wow.....dream home!
Sep 18, 2023
D
MacGregor 26s
Das sind Teakleisten, die aufgeklebt, dann mit Schwarzer Masse ausgegossen und geschliffen wurden. Sieht immer noch aus wie neu.....
Aug 25, 2023
P
Marilee-Interior.jpg
This interior is gorgeous! What type of boat is this in?
Jan 10, 2023
DSCN8846
CHILD LABOR
Aug 29, 2022
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DSC00628 The stern rail as mentioned previously is very helpful for supporting the mast crutch. I favor this mast crutch set up because it allows you to mount your rudder on the stern at the ramp and launch your boat if you choose to raise your mast with the boat sitting at the dock. Having a roller inside the crutch allows you to roll the mast aft or forward instead of having to man handle it as I was doing for many years.
Joe11688
Feb 14, 2013
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DSC00627 In essence what we see in this pic is a Gin Pole with a small boat winch attached to it, pivot bridles, and the baby stays. It takes a little time to set this mast raising rig up but we only do this a couple of times a year, as we both rent moorings at the yacht club.
Joe11688
Feb 14, 2013
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DSC00428 When I first saw this guy raise his mast with a CDI Roller Furler connected to it one day at the club, I was completely blow away! I've always wanted a good roller furler on my boat but there was no way that I could ever raise my mast with a furler connected to it the way I was doing it by hand. This guy was a new YC member back then and I was later to find out that he had more clever ideas and mods than anyone I've ever known. He used to categorize himself as a "tinkerer" and that he is to this very day. I'm forever picking his brains and I'm still learning from him.
Joe11688
Feb 14, 2013
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scan The two most important things to remember when raising or lowering a mast on land or on the water is: 1. The wind direction. The wind needs to be coming directly from the stern. A wind from abeam will blow the mast over the side. 2. The boat and/or the trailer needs to be level. If the boat is leaning to one side, the mast is also going to lean to that side as soon as you raise it and it will inevitably go right over the side breaking the tabernacle in the process. You need to remember that the stays will not prevent the mast from going over the side until the mast is all the way up. The stays will then get tight and provide the stability needed. This picture was taken at the Mattapoisett Ma. Boat ramp back in the 1990s. My wife Dolores was sitting in our Delta 88 Olds reading a magazine. I spend a lot of time out on the water and tan up real quick. I very seldom get sunburned.
Joe11688
Feb 14, 2013
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scan0002 To raise a mast on this boat from over the stern, I needed to build a mast crutch and attach it to my stern rail. Fortunately my O'Day 222 came with a full stern rail which made it easy to attach a crutch to it. I built the crutch out of some short 2x4s and some plywood. It was adjustable in that it could be lowered to hold the mast in place while the boat was being trailered. I have another album on mast crutches on this site, so I won't elaborate any further on this except to say that this piece of equipment is very essential in mast raising. The main advantages of raising a mast from the stern are as follows: The mast can sit in the crutches,( I have one on my bow pulpit also) with the track pointing down with all the stays connected, save the forestay which can be bungeed to the mast along with the topping lift. No dirt ever gets in the mast track and the mast is always ready to go up as soon as you can untie it and roll it aft so you can pin the tabernacle. It helps if you have installed a roller in the rear mast crutch. I used to set the crutch to within arms reach and pin it into position. The only other aid that is needed is a single sheave block which can be attached to the aft hole in the bow stem chainplate. A 60'x 3/8" three strand nylon line is roved through the block and attached to the Jib shackle. I spliced an eye to the end of the 3/8" nylon line for this purpose. The Jib halyard is run up the top of the mast and cleated at the bottom. The line will allow you to hold the mast in position after you get it all the way up. All you need to do is take the line around the mast above the goose neck fitting so it doesn't slide down, and pull the slack out of it and tie it to one of your bow cleats. This frees you up to remove the bungee holding the forestay and walk to the bow and attach it to the forward hole in the bow stem plate. This picture was taken at a local ramp on a lake just down the road from where I live. In closing I want to say that if you have an O'Day 22 or a 222 without a roller furler, this type of mast raising is the way to go but of course you could always build a Gin Pole and use it to raise your mast by either a small boat winch mounted on the pole or you could attach your boom vang to your bow stem plate and pull the mast up that way as I do. Note* If you plan on using your boom vang to pull your mast up on this boat or and O'Day 22, you'll need to replace the line with a long braid line of approximately 55' to be able to attain the reach in the blocks when the mast is laying horizontal and ready to go up. I've found this to be the fastest and easiest way to raise a mast and it can be done in about 20 minutes.
Joe11688
Feb 14, 2013
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IMG 0008a When you're all finished caulking that side, insert the rubber and screw with the cup washer and remove the rubber that goes around the other side of the boat and follow the same procedure. Everything should go right back in place when you get through. When I work on my boat I try to use the KISS method. If you find an easier way to do this job let me know.
Joe11688
Feb 7, 2013
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IMG 0007a When I finished caulking under the molding I added a small dab of caulking to threads of each screw and inserted them into the moldings. This way, you get a double seal inside the screw hole and outside of the molding under the rubber after it's inserted. After I removed the rubber, I washed it in a 5 gallon bucket of soapy water. It made the rubber soft and pliable It also provided some lubrication to make it easir to reinsert back in the track or groove.
Joe11688
Feb 7, 2013
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IMG 0006a I was able to do this job by myself because Aluminum is pretty easy to handle alone. I really don't know if this holds to with Vinyl. I've heard that it can break easy. You may want to have an extra pair of hands to hold it while you're trying to remove the moldings. Also, you may need to apply heat to the putty knife to separate the caulking from the Fiberglas. After removing the molding or moldings on one side of the boat you need to clean the area well with Acetone. In the pic you can see the heads of the screws that were used to join the deck to the hull. This is what you need to apply caulking to plus the for the screws that are used for the moldings. I really doubt if water will come in from under that lip, but if you feel that you need to run a bead of caulking on it, by all means knock yourself out.
Joe11688
Feb 7, 2013
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IMG 0005a When this rubber is ready to be inserted back in the groove or track, it will butt up against the other end of the rubber and the screw hole should line up perfectly. For this reason, it's just easier to do one side of the boat at a time.
Joe11688
Feb 7, 2013
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DSC01174 I don't know about your boat, but my boat has one continuous rubber that starts at the stern and butts up with the other end at the stern. In the pic you can see the two ends of the rubber held in place with wood screws and cup washers. It's foolish to remove this rubber completely out of the track all the way around and by the same token you don't want to remove all the moldings at once unless you need to. My suggestion to you is to remove the rubber on one side of the boat at a time. Find the break in the moldings somewhere near the bow where they butt up against each other and just remove the rubber and moldings to that point. There may be more unused screw holes in the moldings than there were screws installed at the factory, so I would advise you to mark the screw holes that were used. That way, all the screws go back where they were before you removed them.
Joe11688
Feb 7, 2013
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Benson Bend 001 I use this hitch quite a bit to join two lines together. It's easy to tie and untie. If I had to choose between this hitch and two connected Bowlines, I would choose this one hands down.
Joe11688
Feb 7, 2013
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DSC01218 I'm also planning on cutting the mattresses in the V birth section. There will be no need for Velcro because these mattresses fit in this section like a puzzle and will stay put once they are in place. This new idea of cutting my mattress is still in the thought stages and nothing is etched in stone as of yet. It all hinges on whether I can get the material soon.
Joe11688
Feb 7, 2013
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DSC01385 If I cut these mattresses in half it will be easier for my wife to sew the new material. I'll have easier access to my two compartments when I need to get to my food storage containers. No more will I need to hold a long mattress up and out of the way with my head in order to get at the containers. Velcro can be used where the mattresses butt up against one another to keep them together.
Joe11688
Feb 7, 2013
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DSC01384 This pic shows my port quarter birth compartment. I keep all my can goods, and other food items in these 2.5 gal. plastic containers. I have three compartments on each side of the boat and in order to get at the two on each side that I use the most, I need to raise the mattress on that side and hold it with my head while I take the containers out of the compartment, which gets is to be a pain in the butt. I want to recover these mattresses with new material as soon as I can find some material that I like, cheap. My latest brain storm is to cut these mattress foams in half which will make it a lot easer to move out of the way to get at each of the two compartments on both sides of the boat. I can keep them joined with Velcro, as I have omitted the mattress under the cockpit on my boat. This is an idea that I've been kicking around for a while and I think it's doable.
Joe11688
Feb 7, 2013
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DSC00628 A rear mast crutch is pretty simple to build but you need to attach it to something and this is where a stern rail comes in handy. Myself, I love a full stern rail and I'm fortunate that the O'Day factory was kind enough to install one on my boat when it was being built back in 1986.
Joe11688
Jan 31, 2013
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DSC00430 It's very important to have a mast crutch in the stern. You really need something to rest the mast on to keep it from hitting the top of your cabin during raising/lowering process. Wayne built the mast raising rig for his Seaward 22 and he showed me how to construct one for my boat.
Joe11688
Jan 31, 2013
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IMG 0029 She's about ready to be trailered home.
Joe11688
Jan 31, 2013
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IMG 0027 What I really love about this mast carrying set up is that I can mount the rudder on the transom, tie it off, and launch my boat and raise my mast on the water. She's all set to be pulled out of the water in this pic. It's a heck of a lot easier to remove my rudder and stick it in the back of my truck after I get her pulled out of the water.
Joe11688
Jan 31, 2013
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DSC01380 A few years ago I decided rig my roller so that I could move it up to keep the mast from catching on it when I rolled it fore or aft.
Joe11688
Jan 31, 2013
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DSC01160 The rear mast crutch has a screwed on flange on the bottom with long wood screws. I drilled a 1" hole in the bottom of the crutch so that the pipe extends beyond the flange and into the hole about 1". This gives the crutch more strength and stability on the pipe. I did the same thing to my Gin Pole which is made of wood and 1" stainless steel pipe.
Joe11688
Jan 31, 2013
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DSC01164 This bow pulpit mast holder was simple to build. You could use maple or oak. The permanent mount board is made of Teak.
Joe11688
Jan 31, 2013
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DSC01164
Joe11688
Jan 31, 2013
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DSC00450 The most important crutch is the stern crutch. Most OD 222s didn't come through with a full stern rail but a stern rail really comes in handy for mounting the crutch. The crutch also needs to be adjustable for the height needed to be able to raise or lower your mast. I had a marine metal fabricator/ welder make me up this combination mast crutch mast raising/lowering rig for me. I did the wood work and drilled the holes through the two 60 degree offset T fittings and the single four way mast crutch pipe fitting, for Fast Pins. Years ago, I used to stow this crutch attachment in the cabin but as time went by I liked having it on because it offered some security for standing at the sailing, that I decided to just leave it connected all the time. Outside of that, I think that it makes my boat look real cool. I decided to do away with the Fast Pins and just bolt to my stern rail. The crutch pipe stows in the cabin when the mast is up. I went back to him years later after he teamed up with another guy and bought a multi million dollar marina on the Taunton River. I had a straight piece of 1" S.S. pipe and I needed to have them put a slight bend in it so that I could make a flag staff out of it. I installed a Teak cap in the top of the staff and bored a 1/4" hole at the other end of the pipe for a Fast Pin. The pipe fits in the four way pipe fitting on the top of the rail and looks real cool. The small roller in this wooden crutch can be moved up for ease in rolling the mast forward or aft without getting snagged. The welder I had make this attachment up was very familiar to me from the boat shows that I attended every year in Boston. He had a display set up and I was able to check out his work. I struck up a deal with him and brought my boat down to his house one day where he had all his metal fabrication and welding equipment in his garage. I showed him what I was using for a mast crutch which was a real heavy awkward Mickey Mouse set up and he told him to make something similar to it out of S.S. pipe. I watched him carefully as he made this up and he did it in a logical and methodical way in that everything fit together and was level and straight. He made up that curved pipe first by putting the bends needed. Then he added the 60 degree offset pipe fitting on each end of this curved pipe and figured out the exact place on my stern rail where the he had to make the cuts for these fittings. Then he took a straight pipe and put a 90 degree flat flange on it and found the center of the cockpit sole for the flange and also figured out where to cut the curved pipe for the four way pipe fitting. He made his cuts, tack welded it, and finished the welds after he removed it from the stern rail. He welded the the offset fittings and screwed the base fitting to my sole plate. That straight pipe I speak of has a flat flange attached to the top of it for the wood crutch that I later made for it which is screwed in places with four long S.S. screws. I think that my stern rail is about 15" high off the combing and the curved mast crutch rail is 30" high off the top of the transom. The rail that he made up for me curves forward because of the placement of the 90 degree base fitting on the cockpit sole which has to clear the small well for the self bailing cockpit system. Also, the pipe needs to be straight up and down. The base fitting on the sole plate supports the weight of the mast when I'm trailering the boat. All I can say is, he did a superb job of making this up for me. It was his own design. It's light in weight and easy to stow. I was a happy camper when I left his shop. Still am.
Joe11688
Jan 31, 2013
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DSC00451 I really haven't made any changes to these crutches and I really don't think I could improve on them. This bow crutch has two stainless steel anchor on the bottom with two washer and two wing nuts that fit into the hole of a permanent Teak board on the top of my bow pulpit. I used two 1" marine pipe straps to attach this board. I glued a strip of carpet to the receiving part of the crutch for the mast to lay in and I tie the mast to this crutch when trailering. The mast is also tied to the rear crutch when trailering.
Joe11688
Jan 31, 2013
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