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  • A
    1975 o'day 22
    will be changing to led lights both mast and cabin along with nav lights. adding solar, adding bbq, rebedding all deck hardware and below water...
  • Looking forward to V-berth.
    Wow.....dream home!
  • MacGregor 26s
    Das sind Teakleisten, die aufgeklebt, dann mit Schwarzer Masse ausgegossen und geschliffen wurden. Sieht immer noch aus wie neu.....
  • Marilee-Interior.jpg
    This interior is gorgeous! What type of boat is this in?
  • DSCN8846
    CHILD LABOR

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scan0002 To raise a mast on this boat from over the stern, I needed to build a mast crutch and attach it to my stern rail.  Fortunately my O'Day 222 came with a full stern rail which made it easy to attach a crutch to it.  I built the crutch out of some short 2x4s and some plywood.  It was adjustable in that it could be lowered to hold the mast in place while the boat was being trailered. I have another album on mast crutches on this site, so I won't elaborate any further on this except to say that this piece of equipment is very essential in mast raising.  
The main advantages of raising a mast from the stern are as follows:  The mast can sit in the crutches,( I have one on my bow pulpit also) with the track pointing down with all the stays connected, save the forestay which can be bungeed to the mast along with the topping lift.  No dirt ever gets in the mast track and the mast is always ready to go up as soon as you can untie it and roll it aft so you can pin the tabernacle.  It helps if you have installed a roller in the rear mast crutch.   I used to set the crutch to within arms reach and pin it into position.

The only other aid that is needed is a single sheave block which can be attached to the aft hole in the bow stem chainplate.  A 60'x 3/8" three strand nylon line is roved through the block and attached to the Jib shackle.  I spliced an eye to the end of the 3/8" nylon line for this purpose.
The Jib halyard is run up the top of the mast and cleated at the bottom.  The line will allow you to hold the mast in position after you get it all the way up.   All you need to do is take the line around the mast above the goose neck fitting so it doesn't slide down, and pull the slack out of it and tie it to one of your bow cleats.  This frees you up to remove the bungee holding the forestay and walk to the bow and attach it to the forward hole in the bow stem plate.   This picture was taken at a local ramp on a lake just down the road from where I live.

In closing I want to say that if you have an O'Day 22 or a 222 without a roller furler, this type of mast raising is the way to go but of course you could always build a Gin Pole and use it to raise your mast by either a small boat winch mounted on the pole or you could attach your boom vang to your bow stem plate and pull the mast up that way as I do.

Note*  If you plan on using your boom vang to pull your mast up on this boat or and O'Day 22, you'll need to replace the line with a long braid line of approximately 55' to be able to attain the reach in the blocks when the mast is laying horizontal and ready to go up.  
 
 I've found this to be the fastest and easiest way to raise a mast and it can be done in about 20 minutes.

scan0002 To raise a mast on this boat from over the stern, I needed to build a mast crutch and attach it to my stern rail. Fortunately my O'Day 222 came with a full stern rail which made it easy to attach a crutch to it. I built the crutch out of some short 2x4s and some plywood. It was adjustable in that it could be lowered to hold the mast in place while the boat was being trailered. I have another album on mast crutches on this site, so I won't elaborate any further on this except to say that this piece of equipment is very essential in mast raising. The main advantages of raising a mast from the stern are as follows: The mast can sit in the crutches,( I have one on my bow pulpit also) with the track pointing down with all the stays connected, save the forestay which can be bungeed to the mast along with the topping lift. No dirt ever gets in the mast track and the mast is always ready to go up as soon as you can untie it and roll it aft so you can pin the tabernacle. It helps if you have installed a roller in the rear mast crutch. I used to set the crutch to within arms reach and pin it into position. The only other aid that is needed is a single sheave block which can be attached to the aft hole in the bow stem chainplate. A 60'x 3/8" three strand nylon line is roved through the block and attached to the Jib shackle. I spliced an eye to the end of the 3/8" nylon line for this purpose. The Jib halyard is run up the top of the mast and cleated at the bottom. The line will allow you to hold the mast in position after you get it all the way up. All you need to do is take the line around the mast above the goose neck fitting so it doesn't slide down, and pull the slack out of it and tie it to one of your bow cleats. This frees you up to remove the bungee holding the forestay and walk to the bow and attach it to the forward hole in the bow stem plate. This picture was taken at a local ramp on a lake just down the road from where I live. In closing I want to say that if you have an O'Day 22 or a 222 without a roller furler, this type of mast raising is the way to go but of course you could always build a Gin Pole and use it to raise your mast by either a small boat winch mounted on the pole or you could attach your boom vang to your bow stem plate and pull the mast up that way as I do. Note* If you plan on using your boom vang to pull your mast up on this boat or and O'Day 22, you'll need to replace the line with a long braid line of approximately 55' to be able to attain the reach in the blocks when the mast is laying horizontal and ready to go up. I've found this to be the fastest and easiest way to raise a mast and it can be done in about 20 minutes.

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DSC01164

DSC01164

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DSC00450 The most important crutch is the stern crutch.  Most OD 222s didn't come through with a full stern rail but a stern rail really comes in handy for mounting the crutch.  The crutch also needs to be adjustable for the height needed to be able to raise or lower your mast.  

I had a marine metal fabricator/ welder make me up this combination mast crutch mast raising/lowering rig for me.  I did the wood work and drilled the holes through the two 60 degree offset T fittings and the single four way mast crutch pipe fitting, for Fast Pins.  Years ago, I used to stow this crutch attachment in the cabin but as time went by I liked having it on because it offered some security for standing at the sailing, that I decided to just leave it connected all the time.   Outside of that, I think that it makes my boat look real cool.  I decided to do away with the Fast Pins and just bolt to my stern rail.   The crutch pipe stows in the cabin when the mast is up.   
I went back to him years later after he teamed up with another guy and bought a multi million dollar marina on the Taunton River.   I had a straight piece of 1" S.S. pipe and I needed to have them put a slight bend in it so that I could make a flag staff out of it.  I installed a Teak cap in the top of the staff and bored a 1/4" hole at the other end of the pipe for a Fast Pin.  The pipe fits in the four way pipe fitting on the top of the rail and looks real cool. 

 The small roller in this wooden crutch can be moved up for ease in rolling the mast forward or aft without getting snagged.

The welder I had make this attachment up was very familiar to me from the boat shows that I attended every year in Boston.  He had a display set up and I was able to check out his work.   I struck up a deal with him and brought my boat down to his house one day where he had all his metal fabrication and welding equipment in his garage.
I showed him what I was using for a mast crutch which was a real heavy awkward Mickey Mouse set up and he told him to make something similar to it out of S.S. pipe.

I watched him carefully as he made this up and he did it in a logical and methodical way in that everything fit together and was level and straight.  
He made up that curved pipe first by putting the bends needed.   Then he added the 60 degree offset pipe fitting on each end of this curved pipe and figured out the exact place on my stern rail where the he had to make the cuts for these fittings.
Then he took a straight pipe and put a 90 degree flat flange on it and found the center of the cockpit sole for the flange and also figured out where to cut the curved pipe for the four way pipe fitting.  He made his cuts, tack welded it, and finished the welds after he removed it from the stern rail.  He welded the the offset fittings and screwed the base fitting to my sole plate.  That straight pipe I speak of has a flat flange attached to the top of it for the wood crutch that I later made for it which is screwed in places with four long S.S. screws.  I think that my stern rail is about 15" high off the combing and the curved mast crutch rail is 30" high off the top of the transom.  The rail that he made up for me curves forward because of the placement of the 90 degree base fitting on the cockpit sole which has to clear the small well for the self bailing cockpit system.  Also, the pipe needs to be straight up and down.   The base fitting on the sole plate supports the weight of the mast when I'm trailering the boat.   All I can say is, he did a superb job of making this up for me.   It was his own design.  It's light in weight and easy to stow.   I was a happy camper when I left his shop.  Still am.

DSC00450 The most important crutch is the stern crutch. Most OD 222s didn't come through with a full stern rail but a stern rail really comes in handy for mounting the crutch. The crutch also needs to be adjustable for the height needed to be able to raise or lower your mast. I had a marine metal fabricator/ welder make me up this combination mast crutch mast raising/lowering rig for me. I did the wood work and drilled the holes through the two 60 degree offset T fittings and the single four way mast crutch pipe fitting, for Fast Pins. Years ago, I used to stow this crutch attachment in the cabin but as time went by I liked having it on because it offered some security for standing at the sailing, that I decided to just leave it connected all the time. Outside of that, I think that it makes my boat look real cool. I decided to do away with the Fast Pins and just bolt to my stern rail. The crutch pipe stows in the cabin when the mast is up. I went back to him years later after he teamed up with another guy and bought a multi million dollar marina on the Taunton River. I had a straight piece of 1" S.S. pipe and I needed to have them put a slight bend in it so that I could make a flag staff out of it. I installed a Teak cap in the top of the staff and bored a 1/4" hole at the other end of the pipe for a Fast Pin. The pipe fits in the four way pipe fitting on the top of the rail and looks real cool. The small roller in this wooden crutch can be moved up for ease in rolling the mast forward or aft without getting snagged. The welder I had make this attachment up was very familiar to me from the boat shows that I attended every year in Boston. He had a display set up and I was able to check out his work. I struck up a deal with him and brought my boat down to his house one day where he had all his metal fabrication and welding equipment in his garage. I showed him what I was using for a mast crutch which was a real heavy awkward Mickey Mouse set up and he told him to make something similar to it out of S.S. pipe. I watched him carefully as he made this up and he did it in a logical and methodical way in that everything fit together and was level and straight. He made up that curved pipe first by putting the bends needed. Then he added the 60 degree offset pipe fitting on each end of this curved pipe and figured out the exact place on my stern rail where the he had to make the cuts for these fittings. Then he took a straight pipe and put a 90 degree flat flange on it and found the center of the cockpit sole for the flange and also figured out where to cut the curved pipe for the four way pipe fitting. He made his cuts, tack welded it, and finished the welds after he removed it from the stern rail. He welded the the offset fittings and screwed the base fitting to my sole plate. That straight pipe I speak of has a flat flange attached to the top of it for the wood crutch that I later made for it which is screwed in places with four long S.S. screws. I think that my stern rail is about 15" high off the combing and the curved mast crutch rail is 30" high off the top of the transom. The rail that he made up for me curves forward because of the placement of the 90 degree base fitting on the cockpit sole which has to clear the small well for the self bailing cockpit system. Also, the pipe needs to be straight up and down. The base fitting on the sole plate supports the weight of the mast when I'm trailering the boat. All I can say is, he did a superb job of making this up for me. It was his own design. It's light in weight and easy to stow. I was a happy camper when I left his shop. Still am.

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