Fiddling with Fids

Mar 3, 2003
710
Hunter 356 Grand Rivers
Brian D: Look at the Marlow rope splicing video on YouTube. It’s different, but I got really close to actually making one this morning. I’m going to learn how to do this!! With this method, I could actually pull the two cores once they crossed. I only tried it once today. I was using a 7/16 rope and used a 5/16 fid to do the core crossing step. I taped the core onto the fid with electrical tape and kept it smooth. Went about an inch and a half past for the crossing. Then at end tied it off and used leather gloves to milk it down. I did something wrong, looked like a good splice but part of the core -1/2 inch was missing on one side of the splice. I’m getting closer.
 
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Aug 22, 2017
1,609
Hunter 26.5 West Palm Beach
A few things here -

First, when I purchased my aluminum fid set from Sampson back in the 80's, it came with a book that explained how to splice double braid. Only one way was shown. That was then, this is now. These days, Sampson publishes many different splice methods that are specific to a particular variety of double braid. Make sure that you are using the correct splice for your particular type of rope.

Second, I have found that polishing my fids to a high shine with Simichrome, will make them slide through the braid much more easily.

Third, I often use the "correct" fid to mark my cut lengths for my splices, but use a fid that is one size smaller to actually push the core into the jacket.

Fourth, sometimes it really helps to soak the rope in fabric softener before starting the splice job. If you do this, wash it out real well before using the line for any high stress applications.
 
Last edited:
Oct 22, 2014
20,993
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
steel fid catching parts of the core or cover when I pass it through
Brian. take all the burrs off the fid. I use the samson aluminum fids. They are smooth. It is not a race. Take the time. You should be able to pass a tapered cover along the line above the core with out having to force the fid.
Work with new line. This is practice. Buy cheap line and build the skill.

First try today
Very nice. Did you lock stitch the splice with whipping twine?
 

DougM

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Jul 24, 2005
2,242
Beneteau 323 Manistee, MI
Splicing is really easy. Double braid is more forgiving however than stranded core.
I learned to do my own a long time ago, but if I don’t do one for awhile, I have to pull out the book and go through the steps. It is very important to have the proper fids.
 
May 25, 2012
4,333
john alden caravelle 42 sturgeon bay, wis
of course the splice is nice. we all know the bowline will not slip. a better choice for your temporary knot could have been the halyard knot. fun to tie, cleaner look.
 
Aug 1, 2011
3,972
Catalina 270 255 Wabamun. Welcome to the marina
I've never had a splice unravel. I usually go a lot further than the 1/3 fid recommendation that most of the docs suggest and while it usually makes the milking process a pita, the end result is a joint that is much stronger.
 

pateco

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Aug 12, 2014
2,207
Hunter 31 (1983) Pompano Beach FL
Hi John, good insight. Have you done a double braid constant diameter butt splice before? Need to do one on our boat for the double line furling.
I too need to do this since the current continuous line is not an equal diameter splice, and gets hung up and stuck when entering the drum. I have seen several example drawings and videos. My question is how strong is this splice since the splice area ends up being only the two outer jackets with no core material?
 
Feb 17, 2006
5,274
Lancer 27PS MCB Camp Pendleton KF6BL
Chip, how strong does it need to be? And, can you coil the loop so that the spice is just outside the drum? There is a video on Youtube for same diameter end to end loop.
 

pateco

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Aug 12, 2014
2,207
Hunter 31 (1983) Pompano Beach FL
Chip, how strong does it need to be? And, can you coil the loop so that the spice is just outside the drum? There is a video on Youtube for same diameter end to end loop.
That is what I end up doing. I wind the drum all the way in the opposite direction of my furl before attaching the sheets to the sail. then it takes almost all of that line to furl the sail. After multiple furls, the line has slipped enough on the drum, that winding it all the way until it jams no longer completely furls the sail. Then I have to detach the sheets, and start over. If I had anything larger than my current 110 jib, it would most likely not furl completely at all.
 
Feb 17, 2006
5,274
Lancer 27PS MCB Camp Pendleton KF6BL
I went and installed the line on the boat. Splice is just (whew) the right size. However, the line is about 9' too short for my main sheet. Oh well. It will have to do until I put a spice in the one I removed.
 
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Oct 22, 2014
20,993
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
put a spice in the one I removed.
What “spice”are you thinking.
  • Sugar & spice and everything nice?
  • Oregano and then be ready for borders. “It’s just oregano. I swear”
  • Habanero pepper to spice up your life.
 
Mar 3, 2003
710
Hunter 356 Grand Rivers
Well after about 30 feet of doublebraid and two weeks off and on, I have finally gotten three splices to work. One is just shy of perfect, thevpther two acceptable. I finally had to start using less than perfect before I ran out of rope! I found a Marlow eye splice splice video on YouTube that works best. I kept catching strands of the cover going by the crossover point. The Marlow guy says the cores should slide easy and they do if you don’t catch anything. After doing the crossing, pull and if the don’t slide, cut off the splice and start again. I used aluminum Sampson Fids. Go two sizes down when sliding the cores past each other. I used electrical tape and made smooth and thin wraps tonsecure the core to the smaller fid. At the end, after milking the core as far as you can, tie a small rope through the unfinished eye, attach that rope loopmpnto a cleat, and pull and snap the rope to yank theclast 1/2 inch of core inside the cover. I did my outhaul and bothbtraveler lines. Now i’m Moving on to the topping lift, spinnaker halyard next.
 
Feb 17, 2006
5,274
Lancer 27PS MCB Camp Pendleton KF6BL
I have learned that when I get to the cross-over I will no doubt catch something. So when I hit the cross-over and go just pass it, I will milk the cover toward the fid. If the core is caught it will work itself off the fid. This has helped a great deal and now my splicing is getting better. I just have to remember to taper the cover more so I do not get a hard spot just after the splice.
 
Oct 22, 2014
20,993
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
taper the cover more so I do not get a hard spot
That is a very good point. The taper is critical. Counting the threads and cutting them seems destructive but it is necessary to a smooth splice.
 
Jan 27, 2008
3,045
ODay 35 Beaufort, NC
Use the magic splicing tool. Throw away those fids, they are a PITA. Get some small diameter wire, make it the length of the fid you are using and double it up by twisting it to make it stiff. Using needle nose pliers put two little hooks on the ends of the wire. Now use the hooks by hooking strands of the cover and then use painters tape or electrical tape to tightly wrap where the hooks are. You can now easily push the wire through the core and pull the cover through. Fids with pushers are a pain. There is a tool you can buy called a super snake splicing tool. Mine broke with a few uses and I realized it is the same thing as my wire method and that is basically free. Here's a picture of a coat hanger magic splicing tool used for larger diameter double braid. For smaller line just use smaller and shorter wire and twist it to make it rigid. Spending money on splicing tools does not help, this tool is free and works better. I have done dozens of splices with this tool and they come out great. Tool will last longer than me.
Magic_Splicing_Tool.jpg