C22 New Style "Stormwatch" Purchase and Refit

Mar 20, 2015
3,095
C&C 30 Mk1 Winnipeg
Sorry ... I was just busting your chops, or trying to. It's not you gaining weight, it's the laz monkey!
LOL that the jab was too subtle for me to realize. I should have known better. :)
But you did remind me of something I want to investigate, due to the known issue.
Moving the battery to the bow, and maybe even installing a freshwater bladder tank will help a lot.

Maybe it's a good thing she wasn't in the water more than an hour last year. I was showing signs of too many snacks last year, but it's gone now. Good for a few extra knots I figure. :D
 
Last edited:
Dec 5, 2011
550
Catalina Catalina 22 13632 Phenix City
Congratulations on finally getting her to the water in her proper place!! I was in your shoes and took an old gym bag with a bunch of pockets and packed it full of all the little spare parts, lines, sail ties, loos gauge, light bulbs, pins, cotters, etc. and keep it aboard where I actually need the stuff instead of up on a shelf in the garage. I may finally get my wish of extended camping aboard my boat this week as it looks like my place will be taken over shortly by hurricane fleeing family and their dogs.
 
Sep 30, 2013
3,541
1988 Catalina 22 North Florida
Congratulations on finally getting her to the water in her proper place!! I was in your shoes and took an old gym bag with a bunch of pockets and packed it full of all the little spare parts, lines, sail ties, loos gauge, light bulbs, pins, cotters, etc. and keep it aboard where I actually need the stuff instead of up on a shelf in the garage.
:plus:
I have an entire locker - the one just aft of the sink - devoted to such things. We call it "the hardware store". I keep six or eight small plastic crates (like miniature milk crates, wallyworld sells them) in there, to keep it semi-organized.

Side note ... The locker aft of that one is called "the drug store". :) The admiral is in charge of it. It contains all of the first aid supplies, sunscreen, bug repellent, meds, personal hygiene stuff, etc. Also kept organized with those little plastic crates.

The contents of these two lockers never leave the boat.
 
Mar 20, 2015
3,095
C&C 30 Mk1 Winnipeg
The contents of these two lockers never leave the boat.
That's the only way to do it IMO.
When something is used, you make a note of that and replace it asap.

We've done the same thing with camping gear.
All we have to do is load 3 plastic totes in the car, along with the tent+coleman stove+cooler, and we know it's all there. Makes it very fast to load up and go.

This time we took the "kitchen" camping tote with us, but the boat will have it's own forks, tongs, etc. next season.

The funny part about not being able to find those clevis pins... is that once we had launched and I started sorting thought things, we found the Clevis pins had escaped into bottom of the starboard locker under the settee.

I have 2 parts organizers with hardware, 2 tool boxes with other supplies and tools, and one of those big all-in-one tool kits in the port locker under aft table seat.
I have to get better parts organizers, the lid on these 2 aren't 100% tight, so small items call fall out. The latches are junk.
The lockers under the table seats aren't "sealed" at the bottom (unlike the starboard one), which would allow small parts to end up in the bilge if a container opened up.

The truck has 2 box tool boxes, one of which various things including 2 trailer wheel bearing kits packed in grease in plastic zip bags.
Eventually I'll weld a trailer jack on either side of the trailer, to enable trailer tire swap/repair, without needing to carry the floor jack I use now.

To minimize the tools, I plan on eventually doing an inventory of tools needed, and making up a smaller kit.
The kit I have on the boat now, has over 300 items and is overkill. It will be moved back into the truck, once I plan my optimized boat toolbox.

The good thing is, most sailors have a hardware kit, so I was fairly confident that we would successfully borrow Clevis pins. :) It's nice to be in a marina that is specifically intended for sailboats. :D

We drove up to the lake around noon yesterday, and actually took her out under sail. :)
It built up to 16 knots, with short choppy waves, and the occasional bigger ones requiring "steering" through them to minimize roll. The admiral was feeling seasick by the time we got back to the marina, and I wasn't too far behind her. Shallow + Huge =lake is more often that not, uncomfortable and even very nasty

I'm making up a list of remaining tasks, and observations, and will post it once compiled.
I was making notes as we sorted through gear, and after we got back from sailing yesterday.
Hopefully it will help others.

Cheers !
 
Last edited:
Mar 20, 2015
3,095
C&C 30 Mk1 Winnipeg
Hello all !

The marina's official season start is tomorrow, so it is time to get some boat work done.
I have WAY too many projects to get done, but I have finally towed our 2 sailboats back from their storage in the country, to my backyard.

I have a list of tasks that I want to do before we tow the C22 to marina.
One of those is installing gas springs for the pop top.

After a bunch of research, I has determined the following:
1) CD's kit once used gas springs that had the following manufacturer's label
HARCO Group Inc. Phone: 215-938-8538 Fax: 215-938-8532 L/N: 290308 P/N: GSB-15V-120#
2) Harco still sells the the GSB-15V-120 gas springs for $10 each They also cross reference to the
ATTWOOD SL33-120-5
SPD GSNI-5150-120
http://www.harco-group.com/catalog/item/1846940/8075442.htm

3) So...we know that the CD strut specs were:
Extended Length: 15”
Stroke: 5.5”
Force: 120 lb.
Rod and Tube DIA: 8mmX18mm
Plastic End Fitting with Spring Clip

So... do I:
1) Spend $150 USD and buy the Kit from CD
2) Spend $20 for the exact same two gas springs, and a bit more for some brackets, stainless hardware etc
3) Spend money on Stingy's improved kit
4) Buy Stainless Steel gas springs and DIY it with all stainless parts

I'm voting for option 4.

I need to find my bookmarks for when I was searching for stainless gas springs.
In the meantime....Coffee break over... time for me to get outside.
 

AaronD

.
Aug 10, 2014
723
Catalina 22 9874 Newberg, OR / Olympia, WA
I need to find my bookmarks for when I was searching for stainless gas springs.
In the meantime....Coffee break over... time for me to get outside.
McMaster carries stainless gas springs; I haven't looked around for other sources. If you find a cheaper option, please post a pointer. For interior usage, I'd think 304 stainless might be acceptable, especially if it's a big savings over 316.
 
Mar 20, 2015
3,095
C&C 30 Mk1 Winnipeg
I haven't looked around for other sources. If you find a cheaper option, please post a pointer. For interior usage, I'd think 304 stainless might be acceptable, especially if it's a big savings over 316.
Will do. Agreed on the 304 vs 316. Some use 316 for the tube and 304 for the rod.
I did find a few good sources last fall but I need to sort through my notes and narrow it down.

I have called a company that makes custom ones. They can do 316 stainless gas springs, with 303 stainless ends, and stainless brackets. I suggested having one of them be a locking gas spring, and one normal. They would need detailed measurements to make locking ones. I am waiting on an more exact estimate, but they think it should be around the same price as the CD kit. Pressure can be customized as needed. I have read that some people think the 120lb force is slightly too high.
 
Last edited:
Sep 30, 2013
3,541
1988 Catalina 22 North Florida
How much is Stingy's kit, anyway? I was just looking for it on his site and couldn't find it.

I now have his stainless end-pieces on my CD struts, to replace their short-lived plastic ones. They are super high quality. If my existing struts ever lose their oomph, I might just pick up a pair of stainless ones from Stingy and be done with it.
 
Last edited:
Mar 20, 2015
3,095
C&C 30 Mk1 Winnipeg
no idea on his price.
The info and photos I saw, show his as not being stainless struts/springs. They appeared to be the "normal" ones with metal ends instead of composite. if they were fully stainless I'd save the hassle and buy his kit.

fwiw, The metal ends in stainless are commonly available for $3 to $5 each and would be a cheap upgrade for those who already have them installed with composite ends.
 
Sep 30, 2013
3,541
1988 Catalina 22 North Florida
Dammit, now I'm having stainless envy. McMaster's struts sure are pretty.

$80 apiece, though. And mine don't have a speck of rust on them yet. :angry:
 
Jul 23, 2013
487
1981 Catalina 22 #10330 Bayview, ID
For what it's worth, in my research for sources of the gas springs to put in my kits, I couldn't find anybody with stainless steel gas springs at a reasonable cost. Most were much higher, some were ludicrous. Black nitride coating will last a long time, even in a salt water environment and since they are inside the cabin where you should be keeping humidity low anyway, I couldn't justify the additional cost. But if anybody wants a 100% stainless steel kit regardless of the cost, I'd happily make one for them.
 
Mar 20, 2015
3,095
C&C 30 Mk1 Winnipeg
McMaster's struts sure are pretty.

$80 apiece, though.
$35 to $40 each is what i've been seeing from gas spring suppliers.
I see no reason that you can't buy the parts for $150

That's why i'm looking into it.
150 for catalina direct, $140 for stingy's improved version (which is currently not for my 87 anyhow), or maybe $170 DIY for stainless.

Non stainless you can DIY the original harco units for $20 + stainless ends + brackets = $60ish. (As a kit, Stingy's price of the basic version is right in line with that DIY supplies cost. Good value IMO)

@$tingy Sailor If my pricing works out ok, I'll forward the mfg contact info.
 
Last edited:
Jul 23, 2013
487
1981 Catalina 22 #10330 Bayview, ID
If owners of >1986 C-22s are willing to wait a little while longer, I'll have a kit for them too. I think all the same parts will work but I'm having trouble finding a guinea pig boat locally to prove it first. I also need to modify the installation instructions for whatever difference there are. A kit for C-25s is also in the works. And a ______ kit, and a ______ kit, and....
 
Mar 20, 2015
3,095
C&C 30 Mk1 Winnipeg
One mod I'm considering is adding gas springs or locking braces to the cockpit locker doors, instead of bungies like I have. That would likely be a good "kit" too.
 

AaronD

.
Aug 10, 2014
723
Catalina 22 9874 Newberg, OR / Olympia, WA
One mod I'm considering is adding gas springs or locking braces to the cockpit locker doors, instead of bungies like I have. That would likely be a good "kit" too.
Has anyone tried replacing the spring support on the forward hatch with a gas spring? If so, mind sharing pictures or guidance? I consider this mod every time I sit up in the hatch and bump the spring, dropping the hatch on my head (of course, every time I do it, I lose a few brain cells, increasing the likelihood that I'll do it again).
 
Mar 20, 2015
3,095
C&C 30 Mk1 Winnipeg
Onwards and upwards !
I have a huge backlog of projects, so I'm switching back and forth between them.
Before the C22 hits the marina, I have to sand/paint our other sailboat (in prep for selling it). Then there is the pergola, finish the frame off truck restoration, finish new landscaping. etc etc. :p

Tiller extension
The boat came with a tiller extension and I mounted it to the new Ruddercraft tiller last fall.
Makes it easy to sit up at the front of the cockpit.
To prevent moisture instrusion, I lined the mounting hole with epoxy last night.

Companionway Hatch
After refinishing the hatchboards, rails etc, last year, I also potted the old mounting holes with epoxy.
Potting the holes for the companionway hatch rails, caused the hatch rails to be slightly closer together.
That prevented the hatchboards from sitting all the way down.
To fix it, I simply used the table saw to trim a small amount from the notch in one rail.
I epoxied the new exposed edge (Epoxy is less likely to be damaged from opening/closing the hatch) and have applied a topcoat of UV inhibited varnish to help prevent the epoxy from yellowing.
 
Mar 20, 2015
3,095
C&C 30 Mk1 Winnipeg
Has anyone tried replacing the spring support on the forward hatch with a gas spring?
"new Design"boats like mine use a knob adjusted prop support. That allows it to be set at any position.
CD lists it as "Support for fibreglass hatches" $37 SBO may have similar
Much better than a gas spring for that application IMO, bacause you can set it from a tiny opening to fully open.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Likes: Gene Neill