Replacing teak with plasteak

Mar 1, 2016
265
Oday 28 Tracy's Landing
I have a 1984 Oday 28. Last year I replaced most of the teak with Plasteak. It look like teak but is low maintenance. My next step is to replace the remaining teak that is in rough shape. What remains are the horizontal runners along side the cabin top fiberglass sliding hatch (the slider) and the vertical runners that guide and secure the hatch boards as well as the teak that is aft-most side of the slider. This latter piece I intent to replace with a Plasteak part that extends further aft to help provide greater overlap with the patchboards and in so doing eliminate (or at least reduce) the amount of rain water that enters the cabin from the corners of the slider-to-hatch boards interface.

I'm seeking advice for this project:

1. Once I remove the teak and ship the parts away for replacement manufacturing the boat will need to sealed from rain or snow. I can place the slider back on top of the cabin and tape it down with duct tape or painter's masking tape. This stuff leaves a residue that is hard to remove. What other options do I have?

2. I think the parts are held in place with screw that sink into he fiberglass, I do not recall seeing nuts inside the boat on the backside of the connecting bolts. I'll remove the teak screw head plug covers and back out the screws then re-epoxy the holes and drill pilot holes again (in the same place or near by) to secure the replacement parts. Does this make sense or am I missing something?
 
Jan 11, 2014
11,399
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
1. Once I remove the teak and ship the parts away for replacement manufacturing the boat will need to sealed from rain or snow. I can place the slider back on top of the cabin and tape it down with duct tape or painter's masking tape. This stuff leaves a residue that is hard to remove. What other options do I have?
Check the big box hardware stores for long life duct tape. It will be UV protected and leaves less residue. You're right not to use the cheap stuff.

Another option is to put tarp over the exposed parts and weigh it down with sandbags or other weights.

2. I think the parts are held in place with screw that sink into he fiberglass, I do not recall seeing nuts inside the boat on the backside of the connecting bolts. I'll remove the teak screw head plug covers and back out the screws then re-epoxy the holes and drill pilot holes again (in the same place or near by) to secure the replacement parts. Does this make sense or am I missing something?
You're on the right track here. Sealing Deck Penetrations To Prevent Core Rot – Marine How To
 
  • Like
Likes: Will Gilmore
Oct 19, 2017
7,744
O'Day 19 Littleton, NH
For covering from rain, unless you live aboard, the tarp tired to grab rails and weighted or tied down in the cockpit makes sense. You can easily cut a cheap piece of plywood to cover temporarily.
This might also be the time to get that dodger you've been wanting. :biggrin:

- Will (Dragonfly)
 
Aug 3, 2012
2,542
Performance Cruising Telstar 28 302 Watkins Glen
Shaping those sliders is not that difficult. I made all my parts with PlasTeak. I made them myself. Including lift-off swinging companionway doors. Also, the tape residue removes with lacquer thinner.
 
Feb 1, 2010
210
Hunter 33.5 El Dorado Lake, Kansas
I placed a order of PlasTeak and the shipping charges have gone up so high that I canceled my order. I had $48 in materials and the total with shipping was $147 and that was cutting it down to 8’ lengths.
I do love the look!
 
Oct 19, 2017
7,744
O'Day 19 Littleton, NH
I had $48 in materials and the total with shipping was $147 and that was cutting it down to 8’ lengths.
Amos,
Where were you having your order shipped from? I found this company that makes PlasDeck out of Ohio. I don't know what their shipping rates are, but maybe they are closer to you?
https://www.plasdeck.com

- Will (Dragonfly)
 
Feb 1, 2010
210
Hunter 33.5 El Dorado Lake, Kansas
Njlarry I use a heat gun and wire brush. Practice on scraps first. Most the time I’m happy with jest using heat. I have looked at the Plasdeck. They only have the decking and not the lumber. The high cost in the shipping is from the length!
 

capta

.
Jun 4, 2009
4,772
Pearson 530 Admiralty Bay, Bequia SVG
I built a door to replace my hatch boards, out of starboard. I was surprised at how much it would expand and contract with the temperature. Does the plasteak do the same, or is it more stable?
 
Feb 1, 2010
210
Hunter 33.5 El Dorado Lake, Kansas
It does expand and contract with the temperature too. I only use it on the exterior of the boat. For long spans I will use aluminum to reinforce it.
 
Aug 3, 2012
2,542
Performance Cruising Telstar 28 302 Watkins Glen
:worthless:
I am curious how you all have treated the sawed edges to match the factory surfaces.
I router the edge to make it smooth and rounded. The edges are small enough that you don’t notice the lack of texture.
 
Aug 3, 2012
2,542
Performance Cruising Telstar 28 302 Watkins Glen
I placed a order of PlasTeak and the shipping charges have gone up so high that I canceled my order. I had $48 in materials and the total with shipping was $147 and that was cutting it down to 8’ lengths.
I do love the look!
Try cutting it 6’ or 4’ lengths. I had mine cut to 6’ length. It was cheaper to ship by a lot!
 
Feb 1, 2010
210
Hunter 33.5 El Dorado Lake, Kansas
I needed 8’ lengths for some grab reals and 4’ for the slides on the cabin top. So if I cut them down to 6’ I would have to twice the lumber.
 
  • Like
Likes: agprice22
Oct 19, 2017
7,744
O'Day 19 Littleton, NH
Will, Plasdeck and Plasteak are the same company.
The Plasteak Website advertises Plasteak for interior use, while the Plasdeck product is advertised as exterior.
My farther had an outside entrance deck made of synthetic plastic wood and it is nice but it definitely moves with the weather.

- Will (Dragonfly)
 

DannyS

.
May 27, 2004
927
Beneteau 393 Bayfield, Wi
Will, where do you see Plasteak advertising it for interior only? They make swim platforms and bow pulpits out of the stuff.