I have a new to me 1986 mac 25. The companionway hatch has a lot of play from side to side. It squeaks like crazy and is hard to open. Its a mess. I'm thinking of getting rid of the wood and making my own with HD PE or UHMW or Starboard. I've seen and heard of these materials, but I know very little about them. I love the idea of low maintenance ad maybe it will function better too. Can someone help me pick out the right material for the job. The color white is ok with me.
Companion way hatch issues.
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A few years ago, I replaced all those wood rails on my '85 Mac 25 with some sort of composite rails I ordered from Idasailor and I couldn't be happier. But I just looked at their website (idasailor.com) and it appears that they now only make rudders, keels and replacement tillers.
I've never worked with Starboard, but that seems to be the material of choice when replacing hatch boards with something other than wood. I was thinking of ordering some just to see how it works. I can only assume standard woodworking tools will be needed. No one's posts, I've read, actually say how they cut it, only that they cut it.
I would like to know if it can be scrimshawed.
- Will (Dragonfly)
I would like to know if it can be scrimshawed.
- Will (Dragonfly)
I am not familiar with the 25, but have replaced the wood on my boat. I made all of the new woodwork using a table saw and a router. There are no difficult cuts, the big item is a simple rabbet that creates the the channel for the edge of the hatch.
While I used teak, the modern composite materials are can be cut and milled the same as wood, so you could make the new "wood" work out of what ever you want.
I purchased my materials at Lowes. You could get the materials any similar store. I used 1X2 material for the tracks and cut a rabbet in the underside and used the router to round the top corners. ie one pass on the table saw if you use a dado blade, or two if you use a standard saw blade. I just rounded the corners with the router so that is two long passes and two short. You could round the corners with a plane or sandpaper.
While I used teak, the modern composite materials are can be cut and milled the same as wood, so you could make the new "wood" work out of what ever you want.
I purchased my materials at Lowes. You could get the materials any similar store. I used 1X2 material for the tracks and cut a rabbet in the underside and used the router to round the top corners. ie one pass on the table saw if you use a dado blade, or two if you use a standard saw blade. I just rounded the corners with the router so that is two long passes and two short. You could round the corners with a plane or sandpaper.
Starboard HDPE cuts with normal wood tools. Shapers/Routers give good results with no tear out. My only complaint is it can pick up static charge and stick to everything — vacuum systems don’t seem to pick it up. I usually empty my dust collector out under my trees - can’t do that with plastic mixed in with the hardwood.
I don’t think it would work well for your scrimshaw. Even if it took a line well there is no way the ink/paint will adhere
Mahalo
UV issues are a concern. You can't refinish or paint Starboard.
If you existing hatch is binding: Have you considered using a non-oil based teflon spray like McLube. A less expensive, but similar item (which is a lot less expensive is Elmer's spray teflon -- it used to be available at most hardward stores.)
Is the existing hatch binding because is is cut "too small" or because it cut "too big"? Wood can swell.
If you existing hatch is binding: Have you considered using a non-oil based teflon spray like McLube. A less expensive, but similar item (which is a lot less expensive is Elmer's spray teflon -- it used to be available at most hardward stores.)
Is the existing hatch binding because is is cut "too small" or because it cut "too big"? Wood can swell.
The hatch rattles and shifts with a lot of play, but it binds. So, there is warping. What is warped, the boards or the track or both? Wooden boards are so easy to make, tracks, a little harder but still, not very difficult. New boards made from marine plywood would cost approximately $75 for a half sheet.
. I just bought this for a client's new boards. 1/2" marine plywood with ribbon stripped sapele mahogany veneer ($75). Add the finish plus your time. They will last years, even decades. Buff with 400 to 800 grit paper and wipe on a thin coat of varnish at the beginning of each season. They could outlast the boat.
- Will (Dragonfly)
. I just bought this for a client's new boards. 1/2" marine plywood with ribbon stripped sapele mahogany veneer ($75). Add the finish plus your time. They will last years, even decades. Buff with 400 to 800 grit paper and wipe on a thin coat of varnish at the beginning of each season. They could outlast the boat.- Will (Dragonfly)
Thanks for your help/input. I'm leaning on a combination starboard type material and aluminum. see photos of someone else's modification.
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I have the same problem. The teak guide rails are just worn out.
What I would like to do is have something that the hatch slides along rather than on the deck.
Any ideas
What I would like to do is have something that the hatch slides along rather than on the deck.
Any ideas
Endura used to make a UV clear and clear gloss. While it's a pain to work with, the stuff is amazing. I used clear gloss on the interior re-work of the 26c, and it was 15 years old when I sold the boat and it looked like the day it was made.