I have an Ericson 30+ from 1986 that still is using the original wire/rope halyards which are led back to the cockpit. I want to replace with rope and am thinking about replacing with dyneema D-cup or similar. My thinking is to buy a polyester covered halyard (? 8 mm) and have the covering stripped from the part that would go over the sheave at the masthead.
I'd like to not replace the sheaves this season as the mast is still up but may inspect and replace at the end of next season.
Anyone have any experience with this? Will the existing sheaves work?
Thanks,
I have posted about building and installing "tapered" halyards in this forum a number of times over the past few years. For some reason, I get very few responses... oh well. That said, I have been a huge proponent of them for the exact reason you mention... to avoid a larger diameter polyester double braid from jamming in the sheaves. (
jamming in the sheaves, we will come rejoicing, jamming in the sheaves). Tapered halyards, sheets and control lines are very common in the racing world, btw.
There are two approaches... the less expensive is to purchase the dyneema core and cover it with a polyester sheath.... You can buy a less expensive double braid, use the poly core to fish the dyneema core through, lock stitch the cover at both ends.. then "bury splice" the cover into the core to complete the taper. On my 27 footer, I used 3/16" Samson Amsteel as the core... earlier builds I used the cover from 5/16" Samson LS to complete the halyard. Just recently I purchased a dedicate 5/16" "cover only" in solid colors, one red, one green...for the task. I thought it was supposed to have a built in messenger line... it didn't, so I fashioned a tool from a wire coat hanger to get the core inserted... like putting in a drawstring. For each of my jib halyards I purchase 80 ft 3/16" amsteel and 40ft 5/16" cover.... like I said you can de core the double braid, or purchase dedicated cover only line.
The other very common approach is to buy dyneema cored double braid, such as Samson Warpspeed, and strip the cover to the desired length... then use the same "bury" splice to create the tapered halyard.
The difference in size between core and cover is 2/16 (or 1/8). Look at your strength requirements to determine what core size will work for your boat... but it shouldn't be any larger than 1/4" ...
Then figure your costs with both methods. The first is cheaper, but requires fishing the core.. not that big a deal IMHO. Them start searching for the best rope deals.... check every where. Here's a link to the
tuck/bury splice for creating the taper... and I've also included a link for
eyesplicing the dyneema.... I recommend the "luggage tag" style pictured in the APS link below.
If you want to see an example of this topic...
check here. They're having a sale on rigging and splicing services now, in case you're not interested in DIY. They're currently selling 3/16 Amsteel for .70/ft.
APS is good source and the staff knows exactly what you're talking about when you order. Like I said, it's a common technique.