Manual info under Hunter boat information on the 23.5 . I have a draft for mast raise instructions for review for suggestions. Working on this
"260 mast lowering
- Thread starter iangraham
- Start date
@Kermit this needs a whole lot of cleaning/tidying up, but for better or worse this is how the previous owner helped me take down the mast and stow things.
My mast cradle pole is also a bit bent, but it doesn't seem to create any issues as far as I can see, and the pin went in.
The tarp is just to keep the hatch area dry as we take things out and clean for the winter. I have a 24'x36' tarp for storage but still need to fashion a tent structure to keep snow from accumulating.
My mast cradle pole is also a bit bent, but it doesn't seem to create any issues as far as I can see, and the pin went in.
The tarp is just to keep the hatch area dry as we take things out and clean for the winter. I have a 24'x36' tarp for storage but still need to fashion a tent structure to keep snow from accumulating.
Nice picture shows the over hangs at the rear not popular in the UK. Now if the Rudder blade pivot came out easy and I moved the high rear support yoke to the front and had a low wooden one at the rear there would be no big over hangs. I guess the police might be worried a truck might impale itself on the mast end. How did your mast electrical wires disconnect do you have access form inside the boat via a roof panel?
Looking at the photo the mast seems reversed to what the manual suggests top of the mast to the rear base of the mast to the front. Any reason to reverse the stowage?
It's not reversed. See the furler drum at the tow vehicle front end.
I tow mine with the tiller secured hard over to starboard and the rudder tied up to the rail. The way Tyler has his in the picture (straight) adds considerably to the overall length of the rig.
I tow mine with the tiller secured hard over to starboard and the rudder tied up to the rail. The way Tyler has his in the picture (straight) adds considerably to the overall length of the rig.
Take a photo of your furler drum if that still confuses you. My Harken furler on my H23 involves a few steps to remove, and if you have that model I can explain.
By the way, step 5 in the instructions on mast lowering says to fasten the jib halyard to a cleat on the deck. Seems odd to me - on my 23, the halyard fastens to a cleat on the mast, so it stays the same tightness as it lowers.
By the way, step 5 in the instructions on mast lowering says to fasten the jib halyard to a cleat on the deck. Seems odd to me - on my 23, the halyard fastens to a cleat on the mast, so it stays the same tightness as it lowers.
Anytime you use a tarp as a tent over the winter where snow and Ice happens, it is not recommended as the weight will bend the mast and a new mast is $2,600 plus shipping if my mind recently saw a cost of that in the forum. Some add supports under the mast for sure but again I am not a proponent of anything drapped over the mast where snow and ice can accumulate with the possibility of the weight bending the mast. Food for thought.
In the picture you can take a 4 X 4 treated lumber and place over the bow pulpit. Then take a pencil and line the port and starboard side of the rail and notch that out at least an inch or more so it will sit down into the bow pulpit. Then cut a section on top out for the mast to lay in. I raises the front end up and the back end goes down some. This also eliminates metal on metal or mast on bow rail marring up everything.
In the picture you can take a 4 X 4 treated lumber and place over the bow pulpit. Then take a pencil and line the port and starboard side of the rail and notch that out at least an inch or more so it will sit down into the bow pulpit. Then cut a section on top out for the mast to lay in. I raises the front end up and the back end goes down some. This also eliminates metal on metal or mast on bow rail marring up everything.
@iangraham
Look at the separate post for mast raise instructions which I am asking for review and suggestions and that might help you. I need to refine them. Once read, ask me questions
Look at the separate post for mast raise instructions which I am asking for review and suggestions and that might help you. I need to refine them. Once read, ask me questions
If you're referring to the slight bend in your mast crutch that is just above the top support hole on the stern, it's supposed to be that way. The crutch tilts forward slightly when cradling the mast
And is it just me or does your trailer appear to be smaller? On mine, the stern cleats just under the stern seat are vertical of the back corners of the trailer. I can strap down the back of the boat this way. Also, my guide posts are just at the stern seats as well. I also see that your bow is strapped down. CD has advise on not doing this which makes sense.
@jwilcoxon78 I have no idea if my trailer is smaller than normal or not. It's the Magic Tilt and is labeled for H26/260.
I'm sure it's for good reason, but why is it not a good idea to strap down the bow?
My bow actually lifts a bit when someone gets on the back of the boat, as it seems super stern-heavy on the trailer. When I'm in it working on it I like to feel like I'm not going to slide the boat off the back of the trailer!
I'm sure it's for good reason, but why is it not a good idea to strap down the bow?
My bow actually lifts a bit when someone gets on the back of the boat, as it seems super stern-heavy on the trailer. When I'm in it working on it I like to feel like I'm not going to slide the boat off the back of the trailer!
CD can explain better but you restrict the movement of the boat and put a pressure point in the middle when trailering. I don't mean to seem like an alarmist here but something just seems off on the size of your trailer. I'm sure other 260 owners may chime in. Unless my Majic Tilt is too large, the guide posts come much further aft that what I see on your trailer. This may also be the reason that the previous owner tied down the bow. Not my boat but take a look at this one. He's also got a great website if you've not visited. h260.com
I'm starting to feel like I was sold a 240 trailer that had a 260 Magic Tilt decal put on. Come to think of it, I think the P.O. mentioned getting a new sticker. Probably why my boat feels like it's going to fall off the trailer. That's fun.
Can anyone make a photo of where your centerboard comes in contact with the bottom middle portion of the trailer for me?
Mine is actually flexing the wood in the center of the trailer, which makes me think way too much weight is on the centerboard and it's not all on the curved hull supports.
Mine is actually flexing the wood in the center of the trailer, which makes me think way too much weight is on the centerboard and it's not all on the curved hull supports.
Ok, I've calmed down now. A quick google search shows half or so 260 examples with a similar trailer design.
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Don't worry, you have the right trailer. It looks to me like it's in the right spot. Remember though, the bow stand is adjustable. Has it been move back a little? Are there marks on the trailer tongue indicating where it might have once been? I'd be concerned a little about the amount of pressure the centerboard is applying to the wood board it rests on. You don't want to damage the trunk. Then you should ask the question how long has it been like that? Form the beginning? Might be normal. There could be a possibility the bunks are soft and compressed allowing the boat to sit a little lower. Inspect the bunks. Maybe take some better pics so we can take a look.
The hull of the 26 and 260 are the same. When the 260 years ago was being trailered in texas of all places, an owner was pulled over and ticketed for too much of an overhang which to my understanding was the only time ever happened. Discussion with Hunter, the trailer was elongated to prevent futher issues. This is the only known time that ever happened unless someone else got
I have always told my customers never strap down the foredeck nor the top of the cabin coach. First if the boat should bounce and no give, could and will damage as I have repaired some in the past. Not only the deck but in essence pressur on the hull and sometimes the seal of the water ballast tank lid have given way. Hard to describe but has happened. You need only one strap in the back and when going over the hull twist the strap a time or two to prevent slapping against the hull and damaging it. This is based on experience repairing so the decision is up to you. Also insure that the winch stand has a safety chain attached to it as a secondary should the winch strap ever fail.
I have always told my customers never strap down the foredeck nor the top of the cabin coach. First if the boat should bounce and no give, could and will damage as I have repaired some in the past. Not only the deck but in essence pressur on the hull and sometimes the seal of the water ballast tank lid have given way. Hard to describe but has happened. You need only one strap in the back and when going over the hull twist the strap a time or two to prevent slapping against the hull and damaging it. This is based on experience repairing so the decision is up to you. Also insure that the winch stand has a safety chain attached to it as a secondary should the winch strap ever fail.
Thanks for the clarification. Any suggestions as to how to mitigate the feeling that my boat is going to slide off the rear of the trailer (or the trailer tongue lifting up if not connected to the truck) when I climb up the stern to get in to work on it without strapping it down, or is it OK to strap at that point, just not on the road?
Sounds like you don’t have enough weight on the tongue. I don’t recall if the winch stand is move-forwardable but do so if it is. My boat and trailer sorta tip up *juuuuuuust a hair* when I climb the swim ladder. It’s not a concern to me, though.