Yanmar 3GM30F Wire Connector

[sailcapt340]

After replacing the Yanmar starter button on my 2000 340 because of intermittent starting issues I found this wire connection. Reading all the posts relating to Yanmar's wiring issues, I traced all the wires to see if any deterioration of the wires, as many have said could be a further issue.
As I said, I found this cracked 3 Wire to 2 Wire Connector, pulling apart from each end.
I checked inside and it's a series of bayonet type connectors. After pushing it together, I taped it until I can get another.
Now, what is it called, where can I get another one and will a new one come with long leads on each end?
Has anyone replaced one like it on their boat?
Thank you for any help you can offer.

 

[LeslieTroyer]

why are you saying it is 3-2 looked like three wires coming into it from both sides - red-blue-white - with most likely the same coming out the other side (blue is hard to tell with the engine paint) - but they dont look like weatherpak style.

 

[sailcapt340]

Leslie,
It very well could be, as you say, 3 to 3 wires. The entire harness moves less than a 1/4 of an inch in any direction. The connector even less. And twisting it wasn't part of something I wanted to do without a replacement.
That's why I asked if a new one would come with longer leads. I could always secure it if that's the case, to avoid hot engine surfaces.
I do know, that when it was pulling away from each end, it did cause intermittent starting.
Maybe it could be others starting issues also. Worth checking for.

 

[Newport Bob]

Suggestion,
If you have enough wire at the connection replace it with individual heat shrink connectors. Or bypass it with direct wiring to the switch

 

[LeslieTroyer]

The broken case on the connector will not adversely effect the current carrying capacity as long as it is held together - I think I would unplug it - check/correct for corrosion - smear of super lube as a anti-corrosive method and tape it back up.

 

[splax]

According to the service manual ch 12 this assembly is called "extension wireharness" which is a cable between the two plugs from the panel and the two plugs from the cable at the engine. The option exists to replace the wire harness with the attached plugs at each end. I would correct the issue by replacing the plug connectors with individual spade connections between each pair of wires in the degraded plugs.

 

[Benny17441]

Those connectors are a weak link in the circuitry and are mostly responsible for the intermittent starting maladies. You can eliminate it and bypass it with heat shrink connectors or individual spade connectors like other shave suggested.

 

[Fast Ed]

I believe this connector is used to connect the engine control panel wiring harness to the harness for the engine. When Yanmar builds an engine they do not know how far away the control panel will be, so Yanmar supplies several different wiring harnesses in differing lengths. I think you should take this connector apart, clean up the terminals and put it back together with some dielectric grease. If you have a problem with it you can order the wiring harness and replace the section that goes to the panel.

 

[geek_guy]

After months of the same issues. I can only recommend that you remove the plugs. My solution was to cut out both sides of the plugs, then add a 3-4 inch piece of wire with a crimp butt connector on each side. I would further recommend you remove the plugs totally. I had several mystery items solved by taking the connector out.

 

[geek_guy]

Sorry, why is it that the enter key prods my memory so often........ Also the added issues for me was the heat of the engine. The connector would work well when the engine compartment was cold. But after running the engine for a few minutes the heat would expand the outer connectors ( at least that's my theory). As the connection would be perfect in the slip, but after going out the engine would not start. Next testing at slip it would work every time. Till I finally started it in the slip, ran for 20 minutes, then would try a restart and it would fail most times. Extremely frustrating till I finally tumbled to the pattern.

 

[sailcapt340]

I agree with you ...the connector has to go. Some heat shrink connectors are on their way now. As soon as the arrive, it's my next project.
I have multiple issues that may or may not have caused the intermittent starting. The starter button was very sloppy and felt loose when you push it. Hard to explain that but it just didn't seem right.
Another possible cause could be the battery(s). I have 3 AGM Group 31 for my House Bank and 1 Battery as my Starter Bank. All purchased at the same time. All are not hold a charge as they when new. I always had 13.75 to 14.00 V, now I'm at 12.05 V.
I'm really thinking that with the batteries losing power, combined with the cracked connector and the starter button, all points had to lead to intermitted starting.
My real feeling is the batteries first. If they're not up to par I just don't have the amps to power the starter.
Maybe others can weigh in on this for me.

 

[Ron20324]

... I have 3 AGM Group 31 for my House Bank and 1 Battery as my Starter Bank. All purchased at the same time. All are not hold a charge as they when new. I always had 13.75 to 14.00 V, now I'm at 12.05 V.....

My B323 has 3 x 31. It sounds like one of your batteries is sucking down the others. Each of my batteries has an on/off switch, and can isolate the batts for inspection. Maybe your 3 are all wired in parallel?

 

[sailcapt340]

I am wired in parallel, the 3 house bank side. I check each one separately (not wired together) and all have the same readings or at least close to each other. Do you have pictures or diagrams of your on/off switches for each? I think we'd all like to see that.