Legend 40.5 reef 1 & 2 rigging

Rich Stidger · Aug 30, 2017

Step one. Keel-haul the PO.
I think that the reefing lines run above the outhaul. I think this because the outhaul has a block system inside the boom and with its weight when slack I think it would drop to the bottom of the boom.
Have you tried using a wire snake after slacking the outhaul?

pateco · Aug 31, 2017

I used a wire fish tape to pull some paracord pull line. then used the pull line to fish the reefing lines. I needed to move one boom fixed point and add another one as they did not line up with my non Hunter sail's reef points.

jssailem · Aug 31, 2017

Jeff. You may need to remove the boom from the boat to reinstall the reef lines. Did that with my boat a year ago. We redesigned the boom system putting everything inside the boom. To get it in the boom and all working required rotating the boom to get clear fairleads for the lines. Two folks one on each end at times. Boom sitting on saw horses. And a strong flashlight at times.

pateco · Aug 31, 2017

pateco said:
I used a wire fish tape to pull some paracord pull line. then used the pull line to fish the reefing lines. I needed to move one boom fixed point and add another one as they did not line up with my non Hunter sail's reef points.

Only real issue I ran into was that a bird had at some point built a nest inside my boom towards the outer end. I taped a fishing hook to a fiberglass fish stick and used that to pull out the nest little bits at a time. After 1/2 an hour it was clear enough to fish the lines. I still have down and feathers that come out the goose neck when I reef. LOL

pateco · Aug 31, 2017

perse111 said:
Thanks Everyone, Yes I tried a wire fish tape but did slack the outhaul. but was trying to run reefing under out haul. Rich I will try to run over the out haul gear this weekend.

If you are on your boat this weekend and think about it, take a peek inside your boom and see if you can tell where your reef lines are- above or below.

thanks again.

Jeff

Jeff, On my H 31 the reef lines went left and right of the out-haul. I pulled out haul tight, and angled the fish tape towards the side I was pulling. I went from the goose neck aft with the fish tape since pulling it out the end of the boom was easier than trying to get it out through the 90° cam cleats at the goose neck.

Rich Stidger · Aug 31, 2017

perse111 said:
If you are on your boat this weekend and think about it, take a peek inside your boom and see if you can tell where your reef lines are- above or below.

Sorry, can't do that Jeff. A couple years ago I changed out the OE Z-Spar boom for a Schaefer roller furling boom. I sold the original boom to a marine rigger out by Boston.

Rich Stidger · Aug 31, 2017

perse111 said:
Oh, ok. Thanks Rich. Have you ever replaced any of the flush-mounted hatched lens? Mine are really crazed ...look really bad. I have been looking locally for a fabricator -looks like the cost would be about 85-95 per lens.

Not yet. But I also have some that are crazed, so they are on my list for replacement.

Karl13265 · Sep 9, 2017

Jeff
I have a 1995, 40.5 and as with you the PO had clustered the reefing lines and the outhaul was to the point that it had to be replaced. I changed out all the sheaves on both ends of the boom as well. I tried the fishing method but finally gave up and ground off the rivets holding both the gooseneck and the rear end of the boom off with my Dremel tool. Did all the required changes and then drilled and taped all the holes and replaced the rivets with stainless machine bolts. I have no problems since and should I need to change out the internals again, I just have to remove the bolts in either end of the boom, do the required work and reposition and bolt the ends back in. Another thing I did was to place a sheave on both the first and second reef points both on the luff and leach, doing this reduced the friction to almost nothing when reefing. If I get to the boat in the next few days I'll take a few pix and attach them to a post.

smokey73 · Sep 10, 2017

Karl13265 said:
Jeff
I have a 1995, 40.5 and as with you the PO had clustered the reefing lines and the outhaul was to the point that it had to be replaced. I changed out all the sheaves on both ends of the boom as well. I tried the fishing method but finally gave up and ground off the rivets holding both the gooseneck and the rear end of the boom off with my Dremel tool. Did all the required changes and then drilled and taped all the holes and replaced the rivets with stainless machine bolts. I have no problems since and should I need to change out the internals again, I just have to remove the bolts in either end of the boom, do the required work and reposition and bolt the ends back in. Another thing I did was to place a sheave on both the first and second reef points both on the luff and leach, doing this reduced the friction to almost nothing when reefing. If I get to the boat in the next few days I'll take a few pix and attach them to a post.

I'd love to see the pictures too, especially pictures of the bolt replacements for the rivets.

Karl13265 · Sep 10, 2017

No problem. Supposed to be going back to the boat tomorrow but will be there for a few days before I get back to post the pictures. I may try the pictures on my cel phone but don't know if the site will take the upload from that source.

Bill Roosa · Sep 10, 2017

The reef lines run above the out haul. Also consider moding the goose neck by moving the two sheves the direct the reef lines down at the goose neck so they direct the lines upward. There are exit slots and sheve axle holes for both upward and downward line exits. The OEM solution was for the line to come down from the goose neck, around a block at the mast base, up to the block at the reef and then down again to the mast base and on to the cockpit. Mod has the line going up out of the goose neck to the block at the reef and then down to the mast base and then cockpit. This requires buying a sheve axle as the outhaul will still need the original axle for its sheve

ben solomon · Sep 11, 2017

I have a legend 1990 37.5. I replaced both reef lines. I did not have to remove the boom or drill the ends. I had clew blocks sewn onto my main sail for the second reef due to friction.

I did the line running work at night so I could see in the boom. I used a white rope light that I ran in the boom to illuminate the inside. Then, it was easy to use the fish tape.

The original reef lines used shuttle blocks, which were removed by my PO. So, I purchased new blocks and ran a continuous line for each reef back to the cockpit.

At the forward Sheaves, I used one of those graspers that are on a wire to grab the reef lines and route them over the sheaves.

I'm back on the boat Sept 21-24th. I can take some photos and/video if it helps.

Ben

Rich Stidger · Sep 11, 2017

ben solomon said:
I did the line running work at night so I could see in the boom. I used a white rope light that I ran in the boom to illuminate the inside. Then, it was easy to use the fish tape.

EXCELLENT idea for the rope light!

ben solomon · Sep 11, 2017

It would be unethical of me take credit for the light rope idea. I read about that somewhere in the past and viola!! It came in handy at the right time. I have used it as well when running wires, too.

Rich Stidger · Sep 11, 2017

ben solomon said:
It would be unethical of me take credit for the light rope idea. I read about that somewhere in the past and viola!! It came in handy at the right time. I have used it as well when running wires, too.

OK, then when I tell someone else, I won't take credit either. Nevertheless, good tip.

ben solomon · Sep 11, 2017

Sounds perfect!

Karl13265 · Sep 12, 2017

Got a few pictures today of the reef system and mods to the gooseneck with bolts replacing the rivets. But they won't upload from my BlackBerry.