Best way to connect tiller and outboard on H240

Apr 20, 2017
5
Hunter 240 Fort Collins, Colorado
I was wondering if anyone could recommend a good way to connect the tiller and outboard on an H240 to improve steering. There are so many different products that it's hard to know what works.
 
Jun 28, 2016
334
Hunter 23.5 Paupack, PA
This is what I use on my H260. Works a treat!
Do you leave that permanently attached? And does it alleviate the need for a prop guard? It sure seems like there's a lot of evil just waiting to happen back there... I'll have to consider this.
 

Kermit

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Jul 31, 2010
5,657
AquaCat 12.5 17342 Wateree Lake, SC
I remove it before raising the motor. It has a quick release on both ends. I've never used a prop guard. It's installed way above the waterline.
 
Feb 18, 2011
315
Hunter 260 Cave Run Lake, KY
Timely post, as I am trying to do the same with my H240. There is not much on this site specific to the 240- but I am hoping the mods posted for the H260 can be used. I am using this old post as a guide:
https://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/rudder-outboard-control.41682/#post-205514
I bought the Panther/MarineTech link from Cabelas. I decided to try and connect the front side of the rudder post to the front of the motor- you can also mount it on the back side.
The 240 is different than the 260 as is seems to have less space in front of the rudder post for a bracket, and thus the turning radius and travel on the rudder side is less. Not sure I will get full range of motion on the outboard. To attach the link to the rudder post you can use a bolt through the hole that is already drilled on some posts (not mine). For mine, I bought a stainless muffler clamp 2 1/4" size that fits well on the post. Then I bent an aluminum plate into a "L" shape and drilled holes for the clamp bolts and a hole for the bolt on the link ball joint. The length of the plate fits the 2.5" space between the front of the rudder post and hull.
On the motor side it will depend on your motor- but you may need a steering plate or other attachment to mount the ball joint on the motor. I'm using the remote control plate on my Honda 8HP that was already there. Try to attach the ball joint as close to the axis of rotation on the motor side to maximize the swing.

One problem is trying to do this with the mast down- the mast crutch is in the way, so I am waiting until I get the boat out of storage this weekend and raise the mast. Photo of my rudder post bracket attached.
As I am not sure this will work well, comments and suggestions welcomed!
 

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Jun 28, 2016
334
Hunter 23.5 Paupack, PA
It's installed way above the waterline.
Oh right. I guess I was thinking that if you keep the motor and the tiller parallel, the prop won't ever try to eat the rudder. Hence, no need for a guard!
 

Kermit

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Jul 31, 2010
5,657
AquaCat 12.5 17342 Wateree Lake, SC
Not my boat but this shows fairly well how it works. I might get a hair less turning range but it's a small, small hair. Maybe as fine as a frog hair.
 

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Fred

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Sep 27, 2008
493
Catalina 28 mkii 745 Ottawa, Ontario, CA
I use the same Panther connecting rod as shown in Kermit's post. Here are pictures of my installation. Other than the fact that the steel that I used to fabricate the arm extension on the motor (IKEA shelf bracket) is too soft the installation works pretty good. The Yamaha motor has a convenient friction lock. When I am at anchor I set the friction lock and install the connecting rod to lock the rudder in place. The connecting rod quick quick disconnects have some slop in them so they can tend to rattle more than I like when under way with the motor running. I tend to use the connecting rod when navigating around docks and marinas. If I'm motoring on open water I simply lock the motor and use the tiller. When I sail, I disconnect the linkage and raise the motor.

On my previous motor installation I installed the rod aft of the rudder pivot but I like the forward arrangement better since it is easier to disconnect the rod without having to hang over the stern.

I plan to modify the motor mount to bring the motor forward which should also improve the geometry somewhat.
 

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Apr 20, 2017
5
Hunter 240 Fort Collins, Colorado
Thanks everyone! I just ordered the connecting rod. Now I just have to put it all together.
 
Jan 19, 2010
12,362
Hobie 16 & Rhodes 22 Skeeter Charleston
@Fred

Would that same set up work with an O.B. that has the throttle still on the tiller arm of the O.B.?
 

Fred

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Sep 27, 2008
493
Catalina 28 mkii 745 Ottawa, Ontario, CA
rgranger...
Not sure. I bought the Yamaha last year and decided on the remote control version which has the attachment point for the steering arm and purchased the friction brake as an option. I suspect that this could be made to work if you can find a place to attach the lever arm. Maybe a simple clamp/strap on to the handle on the motor.

I purchased the power tilt option as well. So far I am very happy with my choices. Remote control makes things a lot easier when docking since I don't have to turn around or reach too far down to control the throttle and shifter. The power tilt (with electric start) makes it much easier when single handing. I can easily change over from motoring to sailing and back. My wife actually pushed me to the power tilt since she could not lift and lower the motor if I were incapacitated.
 
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Jan 19, 2010
12,362
Hobie 16 & Rhodes 22 Skeeter Charleston
rgranger...
Not sure. I bought the Yamaha last year and decided on the remote control version which has the attachment point for the steering arm and purchased the friction brake as an option. I suspect that this could be made to work if you can find a place to attach the lever arm. Maybe a simple clamp/strap on to the handle on the motor.

I purchased the power tilt option as well. So far I am very happy with my choices. Remote control makes things a lot easier when docking since I don't have to turn around or reach too far down to control the throttle and shifter. The power tilt (with electric start) makes it much easier when single handing. I can easily change over from motoring to sailing and back. My wife actually pushed me to the power tilt since she could not lift and lower the motor if I were incapacitated.
Thanks Fred: I'll look over the tiller arm and see if there is a way to attach.

I got my H26 almost exactly one year ago. The P.O. had just put a brand new Honda 9.9 on the boat. Pull start.:eek:

At least it has an alternator. AND it runs well and starts easily. So far I'm not complaining.


So I can't really justify a new O.B. but... if this one ever gets stolen or broken beyond repair... an electric start, with power tilt and remote is definitely on my wish list.:dancing:
 
Dec 13, 2016
6
Hunter 240 Hudson, FL
I built a connection rod with quick disconnects at each end and attached mine to the front side of the rudder post with an L bracket clamped using stainless hose clamps. As CAVERUN suspected in his post, the range of motion is minimal because the turning radius is too small from the front side of the rudder post to have much effect on the outboard. There isn't a good way that I can figure out how to attach the connection rod to the outboard at the center of its turning point. I moved my connection point to the back of the motor leg and back of the rudder housing; which worked better for getting more movement in the outboard. I used a piece of aluminum angle with a hole drilled which I bolted to the rudder housing utilizing the hinge bolt as a connection. The angle prevented the rudder from completely turning to the starboard, so I cut away enough of it to allow for rudder swing. When I did that, the aluminum was too soft and bent too easily when turning the outboard. I just moved it back to the front connection where I began. Even though it doesn't allow for a lot of motor movement, it does help, and it is in the right direction instead of me trying to control the motor and tiller individually.
 
Jan 19, 2010
12,362
Hobie 16 & Rhodes 22 Skeeter Charleston
I built a connection rod with quick disconnects at each end and attached mine to the front side of the rudder post with an L bracket clamped using stainless hose clamps. As CAVERUN suspected in his post, the range of motion is minimal because the turning radius is too small from the front side of the rudder post to have much effect on the outboard. There isn't a good way that I can figure out how to attach the connection rod to the outboard at the center of its turning point. I moved my connection point to the back of the motor leg and back of the rudder housing; which worked better for getting more movement in the outboard. I used a piece of aluminum angle with a hole drilled which I bolted to the rudder housing utilizing the hinge bolt as a connection. The angle prevented the rudder from completely turning to the starboard, so I cut away enough of it to allow for rudder swing. When I did that, the aluminum was too soft and bent too easily when turning the outboard. I just moved it back to the front connection where I began. Even though it doesn't allow for a lot of motor movement, it does help, and it is in the right direction instead of me trying to control the motor and tiller individually.
Do you have any pictures?
 
Dec 13, 2016
6
Hunter 240 Hudson, FL
Here are a few pictures of what I did for a connecting rod. I soldered some 1/2" copper pipe for the arm and connected to a air hose quick disconnect on each end. I discovered that a 1/2" fine thread bolt is the same thread pattern as the 1/2" air hose fittings.
IMG_1292.JPG
IMG_1295.JPG
IMG_1294.JPG
 

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Jun 28, 2016
334
Hunter 23.5 Paupack, PA
I soldered some 1/2" copper pipe
Huh! I like it because it looks like your heating water with it. Nothing like a hot shower. Seriously, I would have to CAD this thing up, then model it, then agonize over the proper materials and construction, and eventually - never get to it. Ah, the simple beauty of copper... Nice!
 
Feb 18, 2011
315
Hunter 260 Cave Run Lake, KY
That is great- nice job! Here in Kentucky everybody would think you are making moonshine in the fuel locker- or is that really what your outboard runs on?
 
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