Towing Dinghy from 25’ sailboat

[circa1971la]

Question about towing an inflatable dinghy behind 25’ sailboat.. I assume my wake will be about 25’ back. I’ve understood that’s ideally the length of the tow with dingy riding on top of the wave and not surfing it. Does that length include the bridle or should I allow 25’ from the bridle to the stern? The bridle is about 6 feet (attached photo). I plan to run a floating line through the ring and attach to each of the stern cleats. Thank you !

 

[jssailem]

1. I assume my wake will be about 25’ back. I’ve understood that’s ideally the length of the tow with dingy riding on top of the wave and not surfing it. Does that length include the bridle or should I allow 25’ from the bridle to the stern?

2. I plan to run a floating line through the ring and attach to each of the stern cleats. Thank you !

1. Your assumption is focused on the distance of a displacement wave (25ft back). This is not always the case. Your speed and the sea state will dictate the distance of the waves behind the boat. You will find that there is a varying distance that you will need to adjust the dinghy to based upon conditions. Being on the back side of the wave will create some drag and tend to keep the dinghy in place. Being on top of the wave will place the dinghy in an unstable location as your boat surges or slows based on sea state. Being on the forward side of the wave will have the dinghy skittering forward and perhaps flipping.

Your described arrangement with a looped line to the cleats and a bridle to the dingy means that the dinghy may slide along the looped line. This could in time create chafe on your looped line. You are more likely to find that a single point on the looped line to be safer. I would be inclined to have a single line from the stern to your dinghy bridle. This simplifies your bringing the dinghy in or letting it out to tow. It will go where ever you pull it. Still be attentive to chafe as most floating lines are victims of chafe.

2. See answer to query # 1.

Watch for the ocean swell coming from the stern.

 

[circa1971la]

Thank you for your prompt reply.. I have three followup questions..

1. Based on the variables you mentioned, how much line would you recommend I purchase ? 30’. Plus there’s 6.5’ with the brudle

2. I thought we want the dinghy to slide along the line so theres less tension on the D-rings?

3. i only had a per and starboard stern clear and nothing in the middle. If I just tie it off to one side, I agree that seems much easier to pull in and out, but wont the dingy be pulled then off-center along one side of the wake ?

I truly appreciate your help

 

[DArcy]

I have always towed on one side of the other, never in the middle of the boat. The size of the stern wave on a 25 ft sailboat will likely not be enough to cause the dinghy to flip. The sea waves may.

A 30 foot painter will be sufficient. I generally have the dinghy sitting on the close side of the stern wave but I adjust it to minimize pull on the painter while still maintaining a stable position. The bridle on the dinghy is a good idea, then a single line to a stern clear from the bridle.

 

[Kings Gambit]

Setting up a good dinghy tow usually is trial and error. Some tested advice. Use floating line. WM sells a 50-ft length of it designed for towing, so you could divide in two. Otherwise, use 3/8 or 7/16-in black 3-strand polypropylene rope. Hook the two tow ropes separately to the towing eye at the bow, not the D-rings on the wings. Forget the bridle IMO. Like most everything that goes into the water under strain, you should want two lines (independent) attached to it! It’s hard to pull up close with a bridle mostly in the way. The main purpose of towing by the rings is to keep the dink from slewing. Achieve the same thing with two ropes attached to the bow eye separately and led separately to your two stern cleats. With the boat underway adjust the two lines to put the dink where it rides the best. It depends on how fast you’re towing. The dink will remain stable when it’s bow is pulled up some, just behind the first stern roller when you have some turns on.

 

[Terry Cox]

Question about towing an inflatable dinghy behind 25’ sailboat..

Really dislike towing an inflatable for any distance. Too many things to go wrong. Prefer mounting the dingy on the stern athwartship or secure on the foredeck. If your boat has a step transom, perfect. If not, there are mounting brackets designed for that purpose rather than custom davits, FWIW. Wrote an article awhile ago about how I carry our dink. Let me know if you are interested. Hunter 42 Owner Modifications and Upgrades

 

[pgandw]

We towed an Avon 8ft inflatable behind our ODay 25 in somewhat sheltered areas (North Channel in particular). The rest of the time we deflated it and stored on board and reinflated at the next anchorage. "I was so much older then, I'm younger then that now."

Now I have a 19ft Mariner with fully retracting centerboard that can be run up on beach (10" draft board and rudder up).

Fred W
Stuart Mariner 19 #4133 Sweet P
Yeopim Creek, Albemarle Sound

 

[circa1971la]

I have a up question about the tow line.. I purchased polypropylene tow line from West Marine to make a bowline to the towing ring. However the line is thick and slippery and it seems it can easily back out. I would appreciate suggestions how better to secure the towline.

I had considered a larks head knot to the ring but I understand we want the bridle ring to be able to move around wI think the ring.
thank you

 

[JamesG161]

I suggest using a Buntline Hitch. This Knot is basically FIXED.

Here is a picture of it on a post but should be through your ring.

You can download that APP.
"Animated Knots by GROG"

Jim...

 

[Kings Gambit]

O

I have a up question about the tow line.. I purchased polypropylene tow line from West Marine to make a bowline to the towing ring. However the line is thick and slippery and it seems it can easily back out. I would appreciate suggestions how better to secure the towline.

I had considered a larks head knot to the ring but I understand we want the bridle ring to be able to move around wI think the ring.
thank you

Here's one way. Another is make a Crown knot w/back splice at one end. Try your bowline, make it long, then pass the backsplice through the standing part a couple of times. It won't slip or come undone. Easy to get untied.

 

[Kings Gambit]

Here's the other; 7/16" poly. Note the backsplice. Here the backsplice end is in the loop, but could pull back and pass through standing part.

 

[Morgan donor]

I take my tow bridle around the transom and back to the bow eyelet. I've seen those OE glued on eyelet patches pull off.

 

[Dave R.]

A couple of tricks Ive learned over the past 35 years.
The bridle and line. I use the bridle and line that is always attached to the inflatable, D-rings. Probably around 25’
I think the best position is the bottom of the wave/swell with the bow just riding on the back of the following swell. To fine tune the position I grab the painter in my hand and slowly pull the boat forward and then back to the place of least resistance/pressure. Then tie off at the sweet spot.
I found that in extreme conditions I tie the dinghy off in the center of the stern tight almost against the transom then the dinghy becomes one with the boat and rides real nice. Following seas and breaking waves might be another story or some more adjustments or deflate and bring aboard.
I also noticed I think that towing in the center is easier on the auto pilot as it has to always be correcting,how ever slight, from that pull on the port or starboard cleat.
If you’re in quartering seas you might tie off for protection or the opposite side of the quartering seas.
That’s all folks!