Sail slug replacement

May 28, 2021
13
catalina Catalina34 Henderson Harbor
Re-posting this here for more boat specific info hopefully

I have a 1989 Catalina 34. One of my winter projects this year was to replace a couple of broken sail slugs. Looking at it today, I have a mix of slugs. Sewn on brass at the reefing points, larger slides with bearings at the battens and the rest nylon slides. Only the nylon ones are breaking and I understand that they are a wear part that needs replacement regularly.

I'm curious why the mix of types, is this original or a product of partial upgrades over the years?

More practically: is there any kind of upgraded sail slug that would have less friction and allow the sail to be raised more easily? As it is it takes quite a bit of force to get it all the way up.

Update: After some research, it looks like my options range from replacing all slugs with Allslip slugs from Sailrite on the low end to something like the Strong track system on the high end.

Can anyone tell me why there are sail cars on the batten pockets and not elsewhere, and how important it is to keep something like that there?
 
Jan 1, 2006
7,091
Slickcraft 26 Sailfish
I'm guessing you have full battens. Full battens put compression on the mast and conventional slides will not slide easily. I think it was Harken who marketed the "Bat Car" brand as a remedy for the sliding. I don't hear much about the Bat Cars any longer. They may have been eclipsed by the Strong Tack or similar systems. I used to sail on a J 34 C which had the Tides Marine system, I think. It was a joy to use. I could raise the main by myself in seconds. It would be an upgrade well worth the price if you have full battens. Not only can you get the sail up easily, you can adjust the luff tension with relying on the Cunningham.
 
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Jul 12, 2011
1,165
Leopard 40 Jupiter, Florida
Sticky and broken slugs - a perpetual problem. The reason for the extra-strength slugs at the batten points are exactly what @shemandr said - to allow for the horizontal force from the batten into the mast without breaking. The remaining ones to break on occasion - that occasion being when you need them most. One of the principal reasons for the lower ones to break is too much force when reefing - sideways shearing or pulling on the slug. The rest just wear out.

You can significantly reduce the friction in raising by cleaning the track well and lubricating with McLube SailKote (great, but serious money). The WD40 Silicon stuff, or something like it, works well too but not as long lasting. Cleaning is best done with the mast down, and a small wire brush on a Dremel. Alternatively, I've read on here about people rigging a cleaning car with a couple spare slugs, some steel wool or other mild abrasive, and even lubricant, and running it up and down on the main halyard. If you invent something cool, post pictures.
 
Jan 7, 2011
4,816
Oday 322 East Chicago, IN
I bought a new main 2 years ago, and I wanted full battens. Salesman talked me into the Tides Marine Strong Track. I really like the plastic track & heavy duty SS slides. Makes raising & lowering the main a lot easier.

My old boat had a Harken batt-car system (roller bearings in the track cars). That was also very low friction.

But, for an existing sail, buying some good quality slugs, cleaning the track, and using some dry lubrication can make all the difference.

Greg
 
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