Has anyone used the self adhesive shims to cure stanchion wobble?

A

AndyL

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Jun 23, 2020
122
Hunter 36 Rock Hall
Hi,

This question is re: 2004 Hunter 36

The Hunter store sells small strips of self adhesive SS to handle a difference in size between the stanchion base and the stanchion.

827444​
Stanchion Shim Kit - Stainless Steel

I tried installing one yesterday and wasn't sure the best way to do it. I was able to reduce but not eliminate the wobble so I wonder if I did something wrong.

Has anyone used these and have any installation tips?

Thanks,
Andy
 
jssailem

jssailem

.
Oct 22, 2014
21,129
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
Not sure if the stanchion bases on your Hunter were designed this way. Hunter was known to imbed aluminum plates in the fiberglass deck. After some years of abuse and water intrusion these plates can become loose. Not so likely under a winch, but the way many grab the lifeline or upper section of a stanchion it is easy to theorize that the base of the stanchion can and does become wobbly. :yikes:

How to fix would depend on the extent of the damage. Your idea of a shim would, in my mind, be like a bandaid on a cut vein. Sure it will work for a short period but it will fail to resolve the issue.

Because of the abuse that stanchions get (Who tries to stop a boat from crashing into the dock using a stanchion. Or who ever grabs the top of a stanchion to hoist them self onto the boat.) I like to use solid backing plates fastened beneath the deck with bolts running through the deck to the stanchion base. Tightened with a torque wrench based on the bolt/nut specs. It does the best to mitigate the abuse applied to stanchions.

The rest is a continual level of instruction about not to abuse the stanchions. They are an emergency life line support, not a tool for fending off the boat or pulling your self up on board.
 
A

AndyL

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Jun 23, 2020
122
Hunter 36 Rock Hall
My question has nothing to do with the base of the stanchion, which is completely solid.
 
jssailem

jssailem

.
Oct 22, 2014
21,129
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
AndyL said:
the base of the stanchion, which is completely solid.
Click to expand
By this statement, I understand that the weld where the stanchion pipe meets the flat base of the stanchion is solid.

The base is placed on the boat deck. The facing between deck and stanchion base is where you intend to place a shim. Is this correct?
 
A

AndyL

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Jun 23, 2020
122
Hunter 36 Rock Hall
No. On the Hunter 36 the stanchions are in two completely separate pieces. The first piece is a base which bolts to the deck. My base is solid. The second piece is the tubular leg that fits over the base with 2 bolts holding it on.

New stanchion legs are slightly too big a diameter for the original bases. So that you have the option to fit a new stanchion leg over an existing base the Hunter owners shops sells a shim kit that is a small strip of self adhesive SS. It doesn't have any instructions.

My first attempt was a partial success. I am hoping that someone else has done this exact same job, which is very specific to a few Hunter models, and could let me know how theirs turned out.
 
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D

dlochner

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Jan 11, 2014
11,464
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
My not a Hunter has a similar installation, the base and the stanchion are 2 pieces. I assume there are set screws, do they penetrate the stanchion and are they threaded?
 
capta

capta

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Jun 4, 2009
4,776
Pearson 530 Admiralty Bay, Bequia SVG
I would think if there was no give at the bottom of a stanchion then the give would have to come from a more expensive part of the system. Also, a tight fitting stanchion on a fixed base would probably collect water and with 304 ss being used instead of 316 by many boat manufacturers, the corrosion would be unseen until it fails, and we all know that it will fail at the most inconvenient time. Of course if it is all about aesthetics.....
 
A

AndyL

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Jun 23, 2020
122
Hunter 36 Rock Hall
I assume there are set screws, do they penetrate the stanchion and are they threaded?
Click to expand
Here is a link to the store: Hunter 36 stanchion and base, 24 in, 2004-present
The two machine screws in the base go right through and have nyloc nuts on the other end.

Thanks everyone for the comments. I'll contact the Hunter Owners Store since they sell the parts and they have been very helpful in the past.
 
Joe

Joe

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Jun 1, 2004
8,007
Catalina 27 Mission Bay, San Diego
Sorry to interrupt this discussion fellas, but the subject of inserting a shim to improve the fit of the stanchion into its base got me wondering. Okay, here's the question (actually 2 questions) 1. What circumstances create the need to remove the stanchion from its base and how often would that be necessary. 2. If it rarely, or never occurs, could one solution to making the fit more secure be welding the tube in place?

Please understand that I am not suggesting a re design per se.... it sounds to me the problem was the stanchion maker's fabrication process. No, my query is to think of a more permanent fix short of complete replacement. To replace the system with aftermarket, high quality hardware is certainly a solution, but if the bases are in good condition, securely fit with proper backing plates and not allowing water to intrude I can't imagine that would make sense. The shim fix would, of course be, affordably ideal.... as long as it works for a reasonable amount of time before needing to replace (you know, like brake pads) .. At least a year, if they're easy to change out, but 3 or more if they're difficult.

Anyway, as I read the thread, I kept asking myself what would I do in this situation. (I actually replaced my stanchions and lifelines a few years back for completely different reasons) and I kept thinking that welding the tube to the base would be my first option if it was feasible to do without removing the base from the boat. Is that even possible? Any comments or experiences to share?
 
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tkwhalen

tkwhalen

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Jun 8, 2004
267
Hunter 49 60803 Lake Erie
AndyL

I am well aware of your problem and I am aware of Hunter's suggested shim fix. I have the exact same problem. My understanding is that at some point in the early 2000's Hunter changed suppliers and if you were lucky enough (like you and I were) you got a stanchion base from a different supplier than the stanchion itself. The result was wobble. Hunter created the shim kit to fix it and I keep saying I'm going to buy it and fix them like you have done. Your post is therefore very discouraging. If you figure out a solution, other replacing everything, that actually works let me.

Good luck
 
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