Galley Stove (Part 2) -2003 36MKII
- Thread starter EdWard3
- Start date
Did you turn On the remote switch to the solenoid valve? Are you pushing the burner control dials in to activate flow in the thermocouple switches while you hit the igniter? Is the solenoid getting hot to the touch? Upon failure solenoid default position is to cut off flow.
Place your hand around the propane solenoid and have someone repeatedly flip the propane switch OFF and ON.
You should feel a good THUD (or something similar) in your hand. If not, get out your multimeter.
You should feel a good THUD (or something similar) in your hand. If not, get out your multimeter.
If you hold a lighter stick or match down by the burner, does the flame blow around (from something coming out of the burners)? If I haven’t used my stove in a while, it takes a while for the propane to make it to the burner(but I can see my lighter flame blowing around).
If not, either the valve is closed on the tank, or the solenoid isn’t opening (assuming the tank has propane in it).
I suppose it is possible a PO put another valve somewhere between the solenoid and the stove…is this a new-to-you boat? Or is this a new problem on a stove you have used before?
Greg
If not, either the valve is closed on the tank, or the solenoid isn’t opening (assuming the tank has propane in it).
I suppose it is possible a PO put another valve somewhere between the solenoid and the stove…is this a new-to-you boat? Or is this a new problem on a stove you have used before?
Greg
Exactly. But just WHAT is coming out of the burner if it is sealed at the supply end and sealed by the safety solenoid valve as well as the burnrer adjustment valve, both at the stove end ? The same applies to the natural gas fireplaces in the house when the standing pilots are attempted to be lit in the fall after being out all summer. SOMETHING is blowing out of the pilot burner, you can hear it but it takes a dozen tries on the igniter to get it going. I'm a little leary of just holding the pilot valve by-pass open and let the SOMETHING keep blowing for 30 seconds befoe trying to light it. With my luck, this time it might just be pure gas right from the start
!
I am saying air is blowing out at first, and then the propane replaces the air. With a flame held at the burner, I am pretty confident that I am not pumping flammable gas into the cabin…once the propane makes it to the burner, it lights.Exactly. But just WHAT is coming out of the burner if it is sealed at the supply end and sealed by the safety solenoid valve as well as the burnrer adjustment valve, both at the stove end ? The same applies to the natural gas fireplaces in the house when the standing pilots are attempted to be lit in the fall after being out all summer. SOMETHING is blowing out of the pilot burner, you can hear it but it takes a dozen tries on the igniter to get it going. I'm a little leary of just holding the pilot valve by-pass open and let the SOMETHING keep blowing for 30 seconds befoe trying to light it. With my luck, this time it might just be pure gas right from the start
If I use the burner every day, there is no delay. But the first time I use it after the winter layup, it takes a while.
The key in my mind is to have a flame at the burner as soon as you turn on the valve, so you know the propane will light (whenever it gets to the burner).
Greg
The concern I mentioned is found in fireplaces where you have a pushbutton igniter to start the continuous pilot light. Why keep pushing the pushbutton when you can wait 30-45 sec. and then push the igniter pushbutton only once to ignite the pilot light ..................... unless, for some unknown reason, you're getting pure gas right from the get go.
I still don't understand how air gets into the line if it's sealed at both ends during the long months of not being used. And we all know that neither propane nor natural gas "go bad" while sitting stagnant in the line ................. I think
.So many questions, so little time.
All good questions…I cannot answer.The concern I mentioned is found in fireplaces where you have a pushbutton igniter to start the continuous pilot light. Why keep pushing the pushbutton when you can wait 30-45 sec. and then push the igniter pushbutton only once to ignite the pilot light ..................... unless, for some unknown reason, you're getting pure gas right from the get go.
I still don't understand how air gets into the line if it's sealed at both ends during the long months of not being used. And we all know that neither propane nor natural gas "go bad" while sitting stagnant in the line ................. I think
So many questions, so little time.
But I do know that my lighter flame gets blown around by something (air I assume) coming out of the burner…and it doesn’t ignite right away…so I assume it is not propane.
Why? Beats the heck out of me.
“When you have eliminated all which is impossible, then whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth.” ~ Arthur Conan Doyle, The Case-Book of Sherlock Holmes.Jun 22, 2020
I say the propane (or natural gas) swap places with the surrounding air by means of osmosis.
Now THAT'S improbable
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There is some porosity to the hoses that actually makes this possible. Same with your car tires and other rubber vessels.I say the propane (or natural gas) swap places with the surrounding air by means of osmosis.
Now THAT'S improbable
Agreed, but not for travel in both directions. Mind you, it's just sooooooooo improbable, it just might be the truth.
My stove does the exact same thing as Greg’s (Tally Ho) does. Each and every year for the past 22 years. Every season we turn on the gas at the tank, wait about 10-15 seconds for the air to purge from the system and then she lights right up. Every day going forward.
I don’t leave the stove dials or tank valve open during the winter, but every year its the same thing. Purge the air…light the stove…cook.
Its a phenomenon!
There is a fuse holder that can fail. Mine did. The spring inside it is very strong, but the plastic holding it isn’t.
I know Ed says it been fixed, but we don‘t know how. Let us know.
I don’t leave the stove dials or tank valve open during the winter, but every year its the same thing. Purge the air…light the stove…cook.
Its a phenomenon!
There is a fuse holder that can fail. Mine did. The spring inside it is very strong, but the plastic holding it isn’t.
I know Ed says it been fixed, but we don‘t know how. Let us know.
Now at the beginning of the season I just open the tank valve, energize the solenoid, and turn and push the range valve and with my nose to the burner wait for the rotten eggs smell. Then I back away and hit the igniter switch. Usually just fires right up. I then purge the rest of the burners.
I'm sure that the gas must be leaking out of the hose or valves, and somehow becoming diluted with air, I can't explain it otherwise.
I'm sure that the gas must be leaking out of the hose or valves, and somehow becoming diluted with air, I can't explain it otherwise.
I neglected to mention previously that the gas fireplaces in our house are supplied by 1/2" steel pipe and 3/8" copper tubing. No rubber hoses. And yet "something gaseous" replaces the natural gas and it is not combustible.
"Ripley's Believe or Don't" has shown interest in this article so stay tuned
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IMPROBABLE>>>
Imagine that the hose is in a vertical position above the burner.
You shut off the gas.
The gas (propane) is heavier than air. What would stop the gas and air from exchanging places?
Now reverse this and you have a hose rising up out of the deck to the burner.
The gas is lighter than air.
Again the gas and air trade places.
It makes it critical where you place the shut off valve.
Imagine that the hose is in a vertical position above the burner.
You shut off the gas.
The gas (propane) is heavier than air. What would stop the gas and air from exchanging places?
Now reverse this and you have a hose rising up out of the deck to the burner.
The gas is lighter than air.
Again the gas and air trade places.
It makes it critical where you place the shut off valve.
I hear you, John, but the puzzle is that there are valves at both ends of the hose. How does the gas escape and the air take its place? Unless, the air we're bleeding is what's in the burner assembly downstream of the valve? Then that would mean that during the season, when the range is getting frequent use, propane lingers in the burner assembly, allowing for almost instant lighting. And, during the off-season, or periods when the range is not used, the propane gradually mixes with the ambient air. That's my new theory.
Edited - added next to last sentence.
Edited - added next to last sentence.
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