Xantrex Link 2000 Controller and Battery Monitor
- Thread starter jpr328
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Made a copy and anxious to try setting the link up tomorrow morning.
Will provide feedback when completed, one way or other.
Thanks again,
John
Will provide feedback when completed, one way or other.
Thanks again,
John
Older Link 2000 Manual
Thanks a lot. I'll copy them as jpgs and yank 'em into a pdf. Much appreciated. It looks a lot like my "later" over 8500 serial number, but still from the original Cruising Equipment or Heart, pre-Xantrex manual, has great technical information as a standalone "how to" booklet.
Thanks a lot. I'll copy them as jpgs and yank 'em into a pdf. Much appreciated. It looks a lot like my "later" over 8500 serial number, but still from the original Cruising Equipment or Heart, pre-Xantrex manual, has great technical information as a standalone "how to" booklet.
Re: Older Link 2000 Manual
Sorry it's taken me so long to get back to the forum, but I was under the weather with a case of the flu, and finally felt well enough to work the Link problem yesterday and today.
The good news is that I had plenty of info including the correct owners manual and the benefit of a lot of experienced feedback, which I really appreciate. This website and its contributors are awesome. The bad news is that I've concluded that my Link must be defective. The first sign was, after hooking everything up in accordance with the manual, it became obvious that the status indicators were not operating, as even the AC power indicator would not illuminate when I provided shore power. As none of the information I had provided a level of detail to understand whether the lights were illuminated internally by the Link or from the Freedom 15, I can't be sure of what the cause or result was. The second indication of a problem was the inability to turn on and of the Freedom 15 from the remote Link, including both the inverter and charging modes.
After checking and re-checking wiring, setting and resetting the parameters per "Gotcha Factor" recommendation, etc., etc. the only thing that changed is that the Link now provides an E03 "Inverter or Charger over temp shutdown indication.
Voltage has stabilized at 13.8 V, Amps fluctuate between .1 &.2 AHrs last reading was 5 and Ch Eff 98.
Basically it looks like the only functions the Link is performing is monitoring the status of batteries, but not any controlling function or charger status.
I am beginning to wonder if the suggestion to find the nearest trash can and make a deposit was the soundest idea, although I hate to quit, I think I just bought a lemon..
Sorry it's taken me so long to get back to the forum, but I was under the weather with a case of the flu, and finally felt well enough to work the Link problem yesterday and today.
The good news is that I had plenty of info including the correct owners manual and the benefit of a lot of experienced feedback, which I really appreciate. This website and its contributors are awesome. The bad news is that I've concluded that my Link must be defective. The first sign was, after hooking everything up in accordance with the manual, it became obvious that the status indicators were not operating, as even the AC power indicator would not illuminate when I provided shore power. As none of the information I had provided a level of detail to understand whether the lights were illuminated internally by the Link or from the Freedom 15, I can't be sure of what the cause or result was. The second indication of a problem was the inability to turn on and of the Freedom 15 from the remote Link, including both the inverter and charging modes.
After checking and re-checking wiring, setting and resetting the parameters per "Gotcha Factor" recommendation, etc., etc. the only thing that changed is that the Link now provides an E03 "Inverter or Charger over temp shutdown indication.
Voltage has stabilized at 13.8 V, Amps fluctuate between .1 &.2 AHrs last reading was 5 and Ch Eff 98.
Basically it looks like the only functions the Link is performing is monitoring the status of batteries, but not any controlling function or charger status.
I am beginning to wonder if the suggestion to find the nearest trash can and make a deposit was the soundest idea, although I hate to quit, I think I just bought a lemon..
Don't give up yet
Glad you're feeling better. I was out with a back issue while you were gone --- I know how it feels. Just got back to the boat today for the first time since late December.
Don't give up yet.
1. Check the power to the Link. Could be off the C post of the 1-2-B switch OR off the house bank if wired with a jumper. Check the back of the Link.
2. IF, I say IF, the I or C buttons were ON when you turned the Link off, it could be still set that way. Read the manual. Again.
3. The Freedom does NOTHING to control the Link. No way, no how. Never.
Think about it some more, I'll read your post in detail again , let's chat tomorrow.
Glad you're feeling better. I was out with a back issue while you were gone --- I know how it feels. Just got back to the boat today for the first time since late December.
Don't give up yet.
1. Check the power to the Link. Could be off the C post of the 1-2-B switch OR off the house bank if wired with a jumper. Check the back of the Link.
2. IF, I say IF, the I or C buttons were ON when you turned the Link off, it could be still set that way. Read the manual. Again.
3. The Freedom does NOTHING to control the Link. No way, no how. Never.
Think about it some more, I'll read your post in detail again , let's chat tomorrow.
Re: Don't give up yet
Stu,
Thanks for the info. and pep talk. We've been out of town and just returned yesterday. After reading my manual several times and checking some of your recommendations, the following applies:
Power to Link is fused and wired directlly to the battery per the wiring diagram.
Somehow cleared the Inverter flashing light at the Freedom 15 (which seemed to have hung up) to ensure the inverter mode is off when shore power is removed.
E03 indication (Inverter low DC/Battery shutdown) still flashing, although the current readings appear normal based on a comparison with my Blue Sky Solar Panel controller, which is indicating "Float". The readings on the link are V = 13.4, Amps = 0, A Hrs = 0, ChgEff = 99.
Settings remain at V =15, Amps =1 AmpHrs = 440 Ch Eff =90
Still get no indications on the Link status Lights. I did change out the phone cable between the Link and the Freedom with no change in operation.
Don't know what functions are being sent between the inverter/charger and Link, so have no idea whether the status lights recieve any feed back from the Charger, like AC in?
Only other thing, that might be adding to the problems, is that I only have a single shunt and have been unable to locate a dual (for use with my solar pal input), and I have not located a terminal strip to reduce the number of leads connected to the load side of the shunt.
Any Ideas and/or recommendations , including potential sources for a dual shunt and terminal strip?
Thanks,
John
Stu,
Thanks for the info. and pep talk. We've been out of town and just returned yesterday. After reading my manual several times and checking some of your recommendations, the following applies:
Power to Link is fused and wired directlly to the battery per the wiring diagram.
Somehow cleared the Inverter flashing light at the Freedom 15 (which seemed to have hung up) to ensure the inverter mode is off when shore power is removed.
E03 indication (Inverter low DC/Battery shutdown) still flashing, although the current readings appear normal based on a comparison with my Blue Sky Solar Panel controller, which is indicating "Float". The readings on the link are V = 13.4, Amps = 0, A Hrs = 0, ChgEff = 99.
Settings remain at V =15, Amps =1 AmpHrs = 440 Ch Eff =90
Still get no indications on the Link status Lights. I did change out the phone cable between the Link and the Freedom with no change in operation.
Don't know what functions are being sent between the inverter/charger and Link, so have no idea whether the status lights recieve any feed back from the Charger, like AC in?
Only other thing, that might be adding to the problems, is that I only have a single shunt and have been unable to locate a dual (for use with my solar pal input), and I have not located a terminal strip to reduce the number of leads connected to the load side of the shunt.
Any Ideas and/or recommendations , including potential sources for a dual shunt and terminal strip?
Thanks,
John
Phantom Sailor: You get an Atta-Boy!
You done good! Thanks for helping everybody out.
And John, if it works for you don't throw it out just because it's old. The 2000 is a really handy thing to have if you want to know what's going on with the 12v electrical circuit.
We've got the 2000, somewhat newer model, and between the alternator, solar panels, and wind generator, along with all the electron consumables on board, it is very handy to just look up at the panel and see what is happening.
Trivia: can't find where I've got the names and details written down, but one of the owners at Heart Interface was also an owner of Phase Linear, the big stereo amp company back in the 1980s. He is now connected with Magnum, the charger and inverter company.
You done good! Thanks for helping everybody out.
And John, if it works for you don't throw it out just because it's old. The 2000 is a really handy thing to have if you want to know what's going on with the 12v electrical circuit.
We've got the 2000, somewhat newer model, and between the alternator, solar panels, and wind generator, along with all the electron consumables on board, it is very handy to just look up at the panel and see what is happening.
Trivia: can't find where I've got the names and details written down, but one of the owners at Heart Interface was also an owner of Phase Linear, the big stereo amp company back in the 1980s. He is now connected with Magnum, the charger and inverter company.
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jpr328 said
"Still get no indications on the Link status Lights. I did change out the phone cable between the Link and the Freedom with no change in operation."
My 2 cents.....phone cables connectors are sometimes reversed at each end and you might need a 4 conductor straight through data cable
just a thought cause I've had this trouble before in other applications
"Still get no indications on the Link status Lights. I did change out the phone cable between the Link and the Freedom with no change in operation."
My 2 cents.....phone cables connectors are sometimes reversed at each end and you might need a 4 conductor straight through data cable
just a thought cause I've had this trouble before in other applications
AC in should be direct, since the automatic transfer switch is in the Freedom unit, so if the Freedom is not in inverter mode the link should be seeing AC current. OTOH, it could be reading AC output from the Freedom even if the inverter is producing it. I have never looked to see if AC input shows when the inverter is on. Gotta give it a try one day.
The only other two are the inverter and charger on lights. Since the phone cable makes these functions work, it's hard to say whether the Freedom sends the signal to the Link or vice versa.
Summary, it doesn't matter who sends or receives the signals, they have to work together. In this case, it's simply the telephone cable that's the conduit for the signals, since it's the only connection between the two.
Single Shunt:
Heart Interface and later Xantrex published a whole bunch of "Technical Notes" for the Link units.
It appears that Xantrex has mistakenly removed a lot of this great info from their website, unless I just can find it anymore, but my bookmarks, which used to work, now don't.
I have one that may help you (although no wiring diagrams came with the original PDF I downloaded)
I can't copy from the PDF (darned Adobe, yet again) so send me a pm and we'll get it to you.
Essentially it says "the Link current sense and voltage leads are paralleled so that the single battery bank is being monitored twice by the Link." It then details the wire color connections, too long to type out.
Stu
Stu,
Thanks for the tech note, it synopsizes the description in the Link tach manual. It is unbelievable how hooking up four wires can be such a problem, that is, until you look at the various wiring diagrams provied by the Link people, coupled with how they use the terms "source, "load", etc. and then how they depict the dual shunt, etc. on their diagrams. I am confident that I am monitoring battery level at the Link, and can further monitor charging level via my Blue Sky Solar Boost 1524iX. For now, I'm claiming "Victory" and retreating. I'd like to thank everyone for sharing info and knowledge on this thread, It's been great.
In particular, I'd like to thank you, Stu, for following thru the whole process.
It's now time to divert energies to replacing the fixed windows to get ready for the Abacos in March.
Thanks to everyone for the help!
Smooth sailing.....................
John
Thanks for the tech note, it synopsizes the description in the Link tach manual. It is unbelievable how hooking up four wires can be such a problem, that is, until you look at the various wiring diagrams provied by the Link people, coupled with how they use the terms "source, "load", etc. and then how they depict the dual shunt, etc. on their diagrams. I am confident that I am monitoring battery level at the Link, and can further monitor charging level via my Blue Sky Solar Boost 1524iX. For now, I'm claiming "Victory" and retreating. I'd like to thank everyone for sharing info and knowledge on this thread, It's been great.
In particular, I'd like to thank you, Stu, for following thru the whole process.
It's now time to divert energies to replacing the fixed windows to get ready for the Abacos in March.
Thanks to everyone for the help!
Smooth sailing.....................
John
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