My Hunter 310 (year 2000) is setup for an optional windlass which was not installed. What windlass should I consider? Does anyone know what windlass was offered by Hunter in year 2000?
Windlass for a 310
- Thread starter Little sailor biscuit
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- hunterwindlass.txt
Thank you for the information. I will internet search for a Simpson Lawrence Sprint Vertical 1000 windlass. Can you close the hatch over the windlass?
WOW. A complete set of instructions for a 15 year old sailboat. The Photos are great and so is the text. thanks very much. I will tell you how the install goes om my Hunter. I plan to install this in May. My boat is moored in Mexico.
Just shout if you need an extra hand. Gotta get away from this miserable weather.
Great write up this will be really helpful on my 1999. can you tell me how to route the battery cables from the battery locker to the front?
I'm no expert, and I DON"T have a windlass, but from what I've read here, I believe that you would be better served putting a dedicated battery as close to the windlass as possible. Has to do with current draw of the motor, and voltage drop over the cable run. Someone will jump in and correct me if I'm wrong.
remember that the amp draw of an electric 12v windlass is so great that the engine must be running while it's operating. so it's perfectly permissible to power a windlass off your house bank. (preferably one with 2 decent size batteries.) you'd only need to run the appropriate size AWG cables from existing house bank to the windlass body. if you install a second house battery 'close' to the windlass you will also have to run all new wires from your battery charger, 12v gauge house readouts, inverter etc to get the new second (or 3rd) 'windlass battery' battery in to those circuits. as for the voltage drop calculations and wire gauge to supply your new windlass, the windlass install instructions will give that data. it's best to consult an ABYC marine electrician unless you are handy at doing those wire runs , installs and AWG size and voltage drop calculations yourself.
I have no problem with doing the work I was just lookibg for info on what path to run the battery cables from the locker to the windlass. Easier if someone already knows the path.
I used this as an excuse to eliminate the permanent list of the boat to starboard. Moved one house battery to port side and all was level once again. This is my idea of having a battery closer to the windlass. A little out of balance when charging but all settles out at the end of the absorption and float stages. The #2 cables were run, tucked up above the rear berth port side and head. The one place I'm still having trouble with is where the two cables pass through the port side salon, tucked up behind the teak trim. I have temporarily jammed up the two cables with a couple of pieces of foam rubber. Holds for a while but eventually manages to fall out. Got to come up with a permanent solution to hold the cables up there.
Using #2 wire, the largest voltage drop I see is 1.0V. This is using the winch SENSIBLY and not trying to break out with it. I also have a Balmar ARS-5 alternator regulator which really drives the voltage up at start up so the voltage does not drop to the point where the windlass would be labouring.
Not saying it's easy, but I found that to be the easiest path to get to the windlass motor housing. Let me know if you come up with anything that's easy/cheap/effective to hold the cables in place where they pass through the lounge area. As previously mentioned, the foam rubber is only temporary.
The one thing I should add is that I encased the two cables in split loom conduit for the full length. If memory serves me, I think I also enclosed the control wiring in the conduit as well as it passed by the electrical panel.
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We can offer the current Lewmar modified windlass that Hunter is using:
http://shop.hunterowners.com/hp/part.php?m=45DS&c=8&p=55012
http://shop.hunterowners.com/hp/part.php?m=45DS&c=8&p=55012
Just a question from a guy who never had a windlass (but might someday).
Why do they seem to be disproportionately pricier than a regular winch for an ATC or small vehicle? Are the materials better quality?
Why do they seem to be disproportionately pricier than a regular winch for an ATC or small vehicle? Are the materials better quality?
Just putting the name "marine" in front of it drives the price skyward. If you can afford a boat you can afford to pay double for our product
. In truth, this is also related to the fact that the marine market is much, much smaller than the automotive market.
Simpson-Lawrence was bought out by Lewmar so there is no more S-L with the exception of a fellow in England selling bits. I just hauled a S-L to the scrap yard this spring. The Lewmars are actually at a good price point, you can spend a lot more. I like a horizontal windlass - seem more durable. Whatever fits. Make sure you have, or can get the proper chain gypsy.
$1595 is actually reasonable! You can spend a whole lot more. As Ralph said, the economy of scale for the automotive industry is a big factor, and the fact that most ATV winches are not stainless steel body and components.