Send them asap to Phil Herring and ask him if he will put them in boat information for the H 260. If having a difficult time, send it to me and I will get them on . Thank you sir. As always I appreciate your help on the forum.
Water under the galley sink
- Thread starter tgrass462
- Start date
That Hunter resource site for older models is still there, so grab what you need. Here's the link:
http://www.marlow-hunter.com/wp-content/themes/marlowhunter/export/
Everyone thanks. Right now the repair we've made has stopped the leak. We currently have a dry sink area. Dave, if we choose to continue sailing without making the repairs you recommended what could happen?
Just watch it closesly but suggest that you immediately take it out should you see any water seepage. I note your location is Illinois. If so, I would take the boat out now. Winter
Dave,
We are currently living on our H260 in Florida. We have travelled 2000+ miles of The Loop in the past 6 months. In your opinion, if we see additional seepage in this warm climate could we wait a day to get the boat out of the water? Thanks. Tom & Tracy
We are currently living on our H260 in Florida. We have travelled 2000+ miles of The Loop in the past 6 months. In your opinion, if we see additional seepage in this warm climate could we wait a day to get the boat out of the water? Thanks. Tom & Tracy
Just keep a close eye on it and carry additional I forgot what you put on. The concern should be the liner lid of the ballast tank moving and widening the gap. So do not take any foolish chances for example trying to sail in heavy airs and so on. I think you should be fine but anything can happen. I would go for it but just be cautious and constantly monitor that.
I was wondering what was going on as to location of boat thinking it was still in the water up in Illinois. I would then ask if you were a member of the Polar Bear Club. I am as I tried to get a sinking boat out of the water in 7 degree tempatures once which required attaching a chain to the lost trailer submerged in my birthday suit. That is all I am going to say on that one.
I was wondering what was going on as to location of boat thinking it was still in the water up in Illinois. I would then ask if you were a member of the Polar Bear Club. I am as I tried to get a sinking boat out of the water in 7 degree tempatures once which required attaching a chain to the lost trailer submerged in my birthday suit. That is all I am going to say on that one.
Thanks Dave. What's the difference between the ballast tank lid and the lid liner? How could the water tank lid / liner move? In your proposed fix would just the area beneath the sink be opened or would the entire tank lid have to be exposed? This seems unreal that our boat could Suddenly have the tank lid shift and our boat would be unseaworthy. Any additional information would be appreciated.
the water ballast lid or tank top whatever those want to call it, is glued down or bedded down with 5200 by 3M and then glassed (tabbed)on the outside of the lid to the hull. There is an expression when the dike springs a leak or water is flowing beneath the dam, then you have to monitor and be cautious. Why did the leak start is the question and until permanently fixed, I am one who believes that if there is a leak, obviously attention to that is in order and just watch it. Better to be safe than sorry is my motto.
Greg Emerson left Marlow Hunter last year. I am not sure what is happening to Marlow Hunter. As the economy gets better, so will sales but a lot of sales came from the small boat market graduating upward and how they were taken care of by the old vanguard. It was called marketing and not sure if that will ever happen again. David Marlow would be wise to think about that if he wants his company to grow.
TG,
I was not sure if your problem was solved, but since still contributions coming in, I would like to tell you about my similar issues with water leaks on my H260 in the hope it might help you.
There were several issues regarding water leaks on my boat; careless hosing of the deck was the easiest to find. Some water came in by sailing and some when docking but under wakes.
The worse discovery at the bow my deck was separated from the hall, water came in by sailing. Also on the rudder mount was a leak through a screw hole.
And then there was the fill hole and valve control on top of the ballast tank leaking, probably my main issue. Water which came out there when sailing or in waked water was just running undiscovered down under the floor the same on the compression pool, where the brace holding screw had also to be properly sealed.
By the way, the bilge pump area stayed dry while water collected under the sink. With rods and elastic self leveling sealant I made sure that no water could run down anymore. Still hat, as prove, some water now standing on top of the ballast tank under the step, replaced the fill hole inspection closer and sealed the washer for the valve screw. Hope this may help, let me know.
Hart
View attachment 131763 
I was not sure if your problem was solved, but since still contributions coming in, I would like to tell you about my similar issues with water leaks on my H260 in the hope it might help you.
There were several issues regarding water leaks on my boat; careless hosing of the deck was the easiest to find. Some water came in by sailing and some when docking but under wakes.
The worse discovery at the bow my deck was separated from the hall, water came in by sailing. Also on the rudder mount was a leak through a screw hole.
And then there was the fill hole and valve control on top of the ballast tank leaking, probably my main issue. Water which came out there when sailing or in waked water was just running undiscovered down under the floor the same on the compression pool, where the brace holding screw had also to be properly sealed.
By the way, the bilge pump area stayed dry while water collected under the sink. With rods and elastic self leveling sealant I made sure that no water could run down anymore. Still hat, as prove, some water now standing on top of the ballast tank under the step, replaced the fill hole inspection closer and sealed the washer for the valve screw. Hope this may help, let me know.
Hart
View attachment 131763 Attachments
Regular Guy
Thank you very much pointing out areas of seepage. What is being presented I believe is the ballast tank lid or top bonded to the hull may have not had enough 5200 placed in the area where the lid came down. Even though the area around the perimeter of the entire lid was tabbed or sealed with glass as well, I have seen and repaired such leaks over the years. Since you do not want to disturb the lid, the best advice was to grind away the tabbing and retab but using vinlyester resins and that pretty much took care of the problem. The leak has been addressed or identified solely under the galley and the fix thus far is taking care of that issue. If it were me, I would continue to sail and monitor it as tgrass462 has the means to make temp repairs. I have seen that type of repair last a long time.
Have not talked with you in a long time but hope you are preparing for a lot of sailing this year.
Thank you very much pointing out areas of seepage. What is being presented I believe is the ballast tank lid or top bonded to the hull may have not had enough 5200 placed in the area where the lid came down. Even though the area around the perimeter of the entire lid was tabbed or sealed with glass as well, I have seen and repaired such leaks over the years. Since you do not want to disturb the lid, the best advice was to grind away the tabbing and retab but using vinlyester resins and that pretty much took care of the problem. The leak has been addressed or identified solely under the galley and the fix thus far is taking care of that issue. If it were me, I would continue to sail and monitor it as tgrass462 has the means to make temp repairs. I have seen that type of repair last a long time.
Have not talked with you in a long time but hope you are preparing for a lot of sailing this year.
I have a similar problem on my H26, but I think it is from a different cause. I have water entering the area under the galley sink from a small crack under the forward galley locker door. The crack appears to be a manufacturing flaw at the joint between the liner and the top of the ballast tank. I am relatively certain that the water is coming from the top of the ballast tank, where I forgot to close it while we were underway. I have remedied the problem of the leak from the ballast tank by closing the valve and tightening up the stopper ( which, of course, I should have done in the first place anyway). I have also cleaned up the other water in the bilge compartment at further aft. The problem is, that I do not know how to dry out the bilge area underneath the cabin sole where the water is leaking from. Eventually, it will probably all dry out, but I have to heal the boat to try to get it to flow out through the small hole under the galley. I am sure that I will not be able to get it all out this way. Does anyone have any experience on how to dry out this area which seems to be about any convenient access? The photos with the Marlin Spike as a pointer show the flaw in the gallery locker.
Thanks in advance for any wisdom you can impart.
Thanks in advance for any wisdom you can impart.
Cactus Sailor,
About a month ago I tried to sail to the Channel Islands on my 2004 H260, when I discovered the compression post base leaking for the first time. Unfortunately (or fortunately, depending how you look at it), I discovered the leak after the water was over flowing from rear berth bilge area - when I was about 7 NM offshore. Anyways, I had water under the head sink and galley sink, under the rear berth, and under the wet locker. It was everywhere. What I used to get the pools of water my hand bilge pump and electric bilge pump couldn’t were some giant grout sponges meant for tiling. You can get a pack of 3 from home depot for a couple bucks. I always kept some of these sponges onboard just in case! Just grab a gallon or two bucket, and start soaking up with the sponge as much as you can. Whatever residual is left you can get with a towel, paper towel, or have it dry naturally. Hope this helps.
-Ian M
About a month ago I tried to sail to the Channel Islands on my 2004 H260, when I discovered the compression post base leaking for the first time. Unfortunately (or fortunately, depending how you look at it), I discovered the leak after the water was over flowing from rear berth bilge area - when I was about 7 NM offshore. Anyways, I had water under the head sink and galley sink, under the rear berth, and under the wet locker. It was everywhere. What I used to get the pools of water my hand bilge pump and electric bilge pump couldn’t were some giant grout sponges meant for tiling. You can get a pack of 3 from home depot for a couple bucks. I always kept some of these sponges onboard just in case! Just grab a gallon or two bucket, and start soaking up with the sponge as much as you can. Whatever residual is left you can get with a towel, paper towel, or have it dry naturally. Hope this helps.
-Ian M
@Cactus Sailor
Is there any water coming thru or seeping from the rear berth area? Need to know first
Is there any water coming thru or seeping from the rear berth area? Need to know first
The aft berth area is staying dry. There was some water there initially (back by the bilge pump), but it has stayed dry since I sponged it out.
I can tell that it is moist forward of the inspection port under the porta potty in the head (using a paper towel to probe beyond my reach), but I cannot reach there with my fingers to get a sponge in.
My plan is to put a ventilator (Shop-Vac exhaust) pointed forward from the aft berth bilge hatch when I can. However, I would like to get it dried out as much as possible before then.
I can tell that it is moist forward of the inspection port under the porta potty in the head (using a paper towel to probe beyond my reach), but I cannot reach there with my fingers to get a sponge in.
My plan is to put a ventilator (Shop-Vac exhaust) pointed forward from the aft berth bilge hatch when I can. However, I would like to get it dried out as much as possible before then.
I am guessing that the H26 ballast tank lid is very similar to the H260. The photo earlier in the thread of the h260 lid was very helpful. The water seems to be trapped in the well where the workers left foot is in the photo. overflow from the ballast tank could go both forward into that area and aft into the easily accessible area under the house berth. Unless the water was quite deep in the bilge it would not flow between them because of the ridge running across the beam.
Does anyone know how close cabin liner fits into the well area and how one might go about drying it out? I cannot find a way to access it.
Does anyone know how close cabin liner fits into the well area and how one might go about drying it out? I cannot find a way to access it.
send me a private message with phone number and lets talk. Your contact info is held private and deleted afterwards. Rather cut to the chase as I have a lot of questions. If anything guys I will report back
Spoke with Cactus Sailor. No leak from transom or water seeping over ballast tank lid into bilge area. Dry coming from rear berth into galley... He did forgot to close water ballast controls once recently. He says it is less and getting less. If it continues My thought it is a break between the W B tank lid bonded to the floor coming thru that weep hole. Boat would neeed to come out of the water, dremel out void,, apply two part epoxy and refiberglass seam with three layers smoothing out with chip brush dipped in acetone to smooth out and get rid of air bubbles and then paint. He has my number and will monitor the situation.
@twalker H260
any downloads you can post them to the 260 under boat info and please do. Not sure if Marlowe Hunter is open or not based on what you said.
any downloads you can post them to the 260 under boat info and please do. Not sure if Marlowe Hunter is open or not based on what you said.