The Official "What Did You Do To Your Mac Today" Thread!
- Thread starter Sock Puppet
- Start date
Today, after pulling the stern nav light fixture, I took a cabinet scraper to the silicone residue on the gelcoat, then followed up with some acetone.
Notice the disfigurement of the "clear" plastic lens. Hot bulb! I'll also upgrade the wiring connectors.
Pulled the trigger on a new fixture, a couple of CG aftermarket-approved DrLED bulbs (stern and anchor), NorCross D10D depth sounder, and bit the bullet on a new pair of Steiner Observer binocs from Defender.
The day's only half-over, but I'm done.
You may be able to see my electrical tape field repairs to the "old" (brand-new) Fujinon 7x50s.
Notice the disfigurement of the "clear" plastic lens. Hot bulb! I'll also upgrade the wiring connectors.
Pulled the trigger on a new fixture, a couple of CG aftermarket-approved DrLED bulbs (stern and anchor), NorCross D10D depth sounder, and bit the bullet on a new pair of Steiner Observer binocs from Defender.
The day's only half-over, but I'm done.
You may be able to see my electrical tape field repairs to the "old" (brand-new) Fujinon 7x50s.
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I've been ignoring a now major crack in the sole of the cockpit, which the PO had brushed off as "just the gelcoat".
When out on my last expedition, as I watched a small trickle of water meander along and into the crack, I figured I should finally do something about it.
Cleaned and scrubbed the crack with acetone, then mixed up a measure of System Three Rot Fix, a thin-bodied two-part epoxy. I drizzled the concoction into the crack until no more would be absorbed, put the rest on a beam end on the house, and let it dry for a few hours.
Then I mixed up another, thicker, two-part epoxy, forced as much as possible into the cracks, and let that dry for a couple of days. Yes, I know, it should have been polyester resin and gelcoat, but I don't care at the moment.
I scraped down the proud epoxy with a card scraper, then sanded with 150 grit.
I don't see a point in going any finer with the sandpaper.
When out on my last expedition, as I watched a small trickle of water meander along and into the crack, I figured I should finally do something about it.
Cleaned and scrubbed the crack with acetone, then mixed up a measure of System Three Rot Fix, a thin-bodied two-part epoxy. I drizzled the concoction into the crack until no more would be absorbed, put the rest on a beam end on the house, and let it dry for a few hours.
Then I mixed up another, thicker, two-part epoxy, forced as much as possible into the cracks, and let that dry for a couple of days. Yes, I know, it should have been polyester resin and gelcoat, but I don't care at the moment.
I scraped down the proud epoxy with a card scraper, then sanded with 150 grit.
I don't see a point in going any finer with the sandpaper.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eXePNEoMQAQ
Sailing off the Southern California coast near Oceanside today. Sailed through a school of dolphins.
Sailing off the Southern California coast near Oceanside today. Sailed through a school of dolphins.
Very nice! We've had quite a few this year as well and love it when they come, especially when they run with is.
Unfortunately we pulled Ohana on Tuesday
She's ready for winter now although it's been a drag because it's been and going to be nice all November and I'll miss out.
Unfortunately we pulled Ohana on Tuesday
She's ready for winter now although it's been a drag because it's been and going to be nice all November and I'll miss out.
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could you post a picture of your rudder up & down rope so i can see what is different from mine ? i have a hard time raising mine
thanks,
mick
thanks,
mick
I been putzin'.
Yesterday and today were spent installing the new NorCross D10D depth gauge.
A 2-inch hole was drilled where a PO had left a couple screws through the bulkhead, then the bulkhead's cheesy upholstery was cut and folded through.
I used a profile gauge to get a rough estimate of the inner hull shape, then cut and set a piece of 4-inch thin-wall PVC there, with a grommet to protect the transducer wire. Affixed it with 4000.
I have to wait until there's water under the boat to do the final transducer placement. Instructions call for clear 2-part epoxy, but I'm gonna try a wax toilet bowl ring instead.
Ran the transducer wire under the portside bunk, hanging it high with little plastic cable clamps and blind aluminum rivets, to protect it from the other stuff swimming around down in there. My arms are itchin'.
Led the wiring from the display unit and VHF down the companionway structure, past the keel winch and through to the battery compartment.
It sure beeps loudly!
Now, to put the cabin back together...
Yesterday and today were spent installing the new NorCross D10D depth gauge.
A 2-inch hole was drilled where a PO had left a couple screws through the bulkhead, then the bulkhead's cheesy upholstery was cut and folded through.
I used a profile gauge to get a rough estimate of the inner hull shape, then cut and set a piece of 4-inch thin-wall PVC there, with a grommet to protect the transducer wire. Affixed it with 4000.
I have to wait until there's water under the boat to do the final transducer placement. Instructions call for clear 2-part epoxy, but I'm gonna try a wax toilet bowl ring instead.
Ran the transducer wire under the portside bunk, hanging it high with little plastic cable clamps and blind aluminum rivets, to protect it from the other stuff swimming around down in there. My arms are itchin'.
Led the wiring from the display unit and VHF down the companionway structure, past the keel winch and through to the battery compartment.
It sure beeps loudly!
Now, to put the cabin back together...
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huge school. how many do you figure? 500?
we see small schools and many pods on the west coast of fl in the winter.
I would say a couple of hundred. It's always fun to see them but I was worried that one would hit and break my centerboard. One did hit the boat but it was maybe his tale. No problem. November starts the whale season off our coast, hopefully I can get a better camera. I used my iPhone to take this film.
Doc
I would be interested in seeing a pic of yours as well - that would be rudder raise/lower.
thanks, Chapster5
I would be interested in seeing a pic of yours as well - that would be rudder raise/lower.
thanks, Chapster5
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I bought a 1994 26S for a decent price...but she's been a bit neglected. Work will commence once I find some spare time; which may be next spring.
I recently moved my transducer inside the boat also after having a log lodge between transom and motor which broke transducer bracket. I just set mine in polyester resin. works great but I did lose my temperature reading function, but on the Brightside I now always know my hull temps.
The wax works fine, but due to inattentiveness, I went aground twice briefly during low tide yesterday. Bent my locking bolt a little.
I'll now leave the keel unlocked when transiting this shallow channel.
At the moment, I'm slipped at Safe Marina in Puerto Penasco, Sonora, MX, and thinking of leaving the boat in dry storage here.
Viva Mexico!
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Lake Havasu Az today. I think the boat in the distance is a 26D
(edit to add one more pic..)
My main halyard was twisted so I couldnt get the main sail all the up.. fixed it after after I dropped the sails.
(edit to add one more pic..)
My main halyard was twisted so I couldnt get the main sail all the up.. fixed it after after I dropped the sails.
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Breaking stuff.. and fixing stuff..
First, I love this traveler.. PO put it on (good since these are expensive).. Two days ago I had to beat upwind for a bunch of miles in white cap conditions with a reefed main and jib. I used this "windward sheeting" traveler - just sheeting by moving the traveler car with the reefed main tight. Water ballast is more work in high winds but this traveler makes it more managable http://www.harken.com/productcategory.aspx?taxid=1558
I have my XL shaft outboard on a transom riser (raises it 2.5 inches) that allows it to fully rotate. But.. the shift lever was "sort of" in the way when I had the outboard in the sailing position on one side. Well... sailing the other day in a good breeze fixed this problem and I had the up outboard jibe in the welll and busted off the shifter..
A bolt and some JB epoxy keeps me sailing.. not as nice as the original however.
Reefed main.. solid but I have to put the reef in at the mast (put the boat in hove to)
New topping lift. I think this is somewhat similar to what Chris H. did but this one is very simple, its just a line with a quick release on either end. One end clips to the chicken foot at the top of the mast and the other end just clips to the back of the boom. A second clip (that I dont have a final position for yet) is up the rope a bit. When I stash the sail, I still use the pig tail off the back stay to hold the end of the boom up.. The toping lift is used mainly for reefing. Ill clip the boom end to the mast when I de-rig the boat.
Anchor rode bag.. well, it didnt fall off in some wild ass sailing..
And.. a couple sailing pictures (I removed a bunch of weight from the rear of the boat to improve the sailing aspect)
First, I love this traveler.. PO put it on (good since these are expensive).. Two days ago I had to beat upwind for a bunch of miles in white cap conditions with a reefed main and jib. I used this "windward sheeting" traveler - just sheeting by moving the traveler car with the reefed main tight. Water ballast is more work in high winds but this traveler makes it more managable http://www.harken.com/productcategory.aspx?taxid=1558
I have my XL shaft outboard on a transom riser (raises it 2.5 inches) that allows it to fully rotate. But.. the shift lever was "sort of" in the way when I had the outboard in the sailing position on one side. Well... sailing the other day in a good breeze fixed this problem and I had the up outboard jibe in the welll and busted off the shifter..
A bolt and some JB epoxy keeps me sailing.. not as nice as the original however.
Reefed main.. solid but I have to put the reef in at the mast (put the boat in hove to)
New topping lift. I think this is somewhat similar to what Chris H. did but this one is very simple, its just a line with a quick release on either end. One end clips to the chicken foot at the top of the mast and the other end just clips to the back of the boom. A second clip (that I dont have a final position for yet) is up the rope a bit. When I stash the sail, I still use the pig tail off the back stay to hold the end of the boom up.. The toping lift is used mainly for reefing. Ill clip the boom end to the mast when I de-rig the boat.
Anchor rode bag.. well, it didnt fall off in some wild ass sailing..
And.. a couple sailing pictures (I removed a bunch of weight from the rear of the boat to improve the sailing aspect)
