Seaward Chainplate Leak Repair

[Jolly Seaward]

Hello . . .new to the forum. Looking for anyone who has repaired their Seaward 25 chain plates . .leaks into the bilge. All my reading on-line . . no specifics for the Seaward 25.

Thanks . . .Jolly Seaward

 

[Brian S]

Here is another place you can ask about your Seaward: The Trailer Sailers Seaward forum: http://forum.trailersailor.com/forum.php?id=13

I've never seen the chainplates on a Seaward, but most production boats seem to have the chainplate come up through the deck, and then a cover plate that drops over the chainplate and seals to the deck. It's very common to have to pull this apart, clean out the old sealant as best as possible, and reseal. Many people do this every maybe 5-7 years with 3M 4200. I know I've seen many Precisions like this. Others use Maine Sail's Bed-it Butyl tape to seal off the chainplates. http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape

 

[sesmith]

What year boat? Is it leaking at the bolts on the side of the hull? If so, just remove and rebed them. Mines a '96, the first year for the raised cabin roof and newer style chainplates. Really, no other source of leakage other than the bolt holes on mine.

 

[Jolly Seaward]

Thank you . . . .I'll post accordingly. On the seaward, the chain plates are on the cabin side vs. deck so somewhat unique to this vessel.

 

[Jolly Seaward]

Looks like our leak is the same . . at the bolts. So it sounds like its an easy rebed . . . .did you replace the bolts? 4200? Thanks . . .ours is a 98.

 

[sesmith]

Mine have never leaked, so I haven't had to rebed them. 4200 would work. I'm partial to Sikaflex 291. Hake probably used 5200...lord knows they used it everywhere else

 

[Jolly Seaward]

UGH on the 5200! Might be quite the task. Thanks.

 

[sesmith]

Really not that bad. I've done all the ports on mine. 5200 comes apart. It just takes patience.

Do check out the seaward forum, if you haven't had the chance yet. Lots of good info on the boats there.

 

[Stu Jackson]

Others use Maine Sail's Bed-it Butyl tape to seal off the chainplates.

Like this:

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7265.msg49430.html#msg49430

 

[sesmith]

Stu,

These are a little different. They don't go down through the cabin top. There is an outer part of the chainplate, and an inner strap. They are attached together through the side of the cabin with bolts. Then there are 2 bolts that go through the hull just above the boot stripe, that attach the bottom of the chainplate strap to the hull. These are the bolts that are probably causing the OP's leak. They need to be bedded with a product that is good for below the water line. Butyl tape wouldn't be something I'd use for this. 5200 might be the best choice, the more I think about it, as its strength might be a plus at the attachment point.

 

[Stu Jackson]

They need to be bedded with a product that is good for below the water line. Butyl tape wouldn't be something I'd use for this. 5200 might be the best choice, the more I think about it, as its strength might be a plus at the attachment point.

Thanks for the photos. I still would avoid 5200 like the plague. You might want to look into what Maine Sail uses for bedding thru hulls.

 

[Jolly Seaward]

Thanks everyone . . .what about 4200 vs. 5200? Project will start in a few weeks . . . may replace the bolts too! I'll also check the seaward forum.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

5200 is a permanent adhesive that was a 7 day cure but now there is one with a faster cure. 4200 is along the same properities but not a permanent adhesive. 5200 is used mostly below the hull and for securing the deck to the hull during manufacture of the sailboats. When pulling a hull to deck joint with 5200 apart, fiberglass will rip apart. I would suggest that anything above the hull line you use 4200 unless repairing the hull to deck joint if 5200 was used.

 

[Jolly Seaward]

Great advice . . .4200 is the plan at this point. Thanks

 

[Brian S]

I dunno about the 4200. Is it flexible enough? I know on a Precision forum I frequent, those guys are digging out 5200 or 4200 every 7 years or so, unless they are lucky. I'd do mine with Maine Sail's butyl tape, because I know that stuff is flexible!

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

Brian;
I was also a Precision dealer.

 

[Brian S]

Brian;
I was also a Precision dealer.

Crazy Dave, do you think 4200 is flexible enough to do a good job on chainplates? Or just suck up to the fact that someone would have to dig out and re-do from time to time? 'Cos some time I might upgrade to a Precision 23 or similar, and I sure know I only like working on an issue once What about 3M 4000?

 

[sesmith]

Flexibility isn't much of an issue here, and I think the dead horse may be being beat

Look at the the pics in my post above. If it were my boat that had the leak (and it's not, but is the same as the OP's) I would look at how the lower part of the chainplate band is fastened to the hull (I've never done that on mine). If Hake Yachts, smeared a large area, where the chainplate bolts on, with 5200, I would consider that a clue that they thought that the point of attachment was structural, and I'd do similar when repairing it, especially if the chainplate strap came loose when I took the bolts out. If I took the bolts out, and all they needed was resealing, I'd probably use Sikaflex 291 instead, for the reasons Dave mentioned. Either way, no repair on a boat is forever. This spot is under water when the boat heels, so something that can be used for below the water line is needed. That leaves butyl tape out.

This is a totally different animal than the normal chainplate rebedding where it goes through a deck. That's likely a good place to use butyl tape and definitely not 5200.

 

[Brian S]

Sesmith, that's good clarification. Thanks!

 

[Harold "Bud" Sulger]

Brian,
Just in process of buying a 1996 Seaward 25. Can I tap you for info. when needed?
Bud (former NYer) now Floridian Cell (631)445-1064 buddys1000@gmail.com