Hello all. I've been procrastinating for long enough, so this month I'm going to replace the lifelines on my H31. Any input regarding the best suppliers, price, lessons learned, or anything at all would be appreciated. If anyone has done this on an '87 H31, and if you have the dimensions of the lifelines, that would also be appreciated. I know that West Marine provides a pretty easy lifeline replacement process, and was wondering if there were any smarter ways to go. Thanks in advance - Rick
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Ballanger in Santa Cruz
Rick: Contact Ballanger Spars in Santa Cruz. I believe that he quoted me $350-400 for our H'31 including new Johnson Marine pelican hooks (the best product in the industry).
Rick: Contact Ballanger Spars in Santa Cruz. I believe that he quoted me $350-400 for our H'31 including new Johnson Marine pelican hooks (the best product in the industry).
Coated / Uncoated
Was wondering what those of you that have replaced have gone with? I'm torn, as I prefer the looks of coated, but I thought I read in the ORC code someplace that lifelines replaced after a certain date must be uncoated for racing. There is not a safety issue with mine, strictly appearance. For those of you that race (I'm hoping to start next season), is this something that is actually checked? Thanks - T J
Was wondering what those of you that have replaced have gone with? I'm torn, as I prefer the looks of coated, but I thought I read in the ORC code someplace that lifelines replaced after a certain date must be uncoated for racing. There is not a safety issue with mine, strictly appearance. For those of you that race (I'm hoping to start next season), is this something that is actually checked? Thanks - T J
Thanks Steve
Thanks for the info. Also, for TJ, I'll find out what I can regarding being uncoated vs. coated, although for the 'Beer Can Races' we have in Brisbane, I don't think it would be an issue... but I'm often wrong, so I'll check it out.
Thanks for the info. Also, for TJ, I'll find out what I can regarding being uncoated vs. coated, although for the 'Beer Can Races' we have in Brisbane, I don't think it would be an issue... but I'm often wrong, so I'll check it out.
ORC Special Regs
Just went and Googled, and came up with this: 3.14.6 Lifeline minimum diameters, required materials, specifications a) Lifelines shall be stranded stainless steel wire of minimum diameter in table 8 below. Lifelines installed from 1/99 shall be uncoated and used without close-fitting sleeving. So, now that I've found that, I guess I either live with my existing lifelines, or with new uncoated, or assume that it's not something that is inspected that closely. After all, who's to say when I installed them? Dec 1998? Dec 2004? But I'd rather follow the rules then try to bend them. T J
Just went and Googled, and came up with this: 3.14.6 Lifeline minimum diameters, required materials, specifications a) Lifelines shall be stranded stainless steel wire of minimum diameter in table 8 below. Lifelines installed from 1/99 shall be uncoated and used without close-fitting sleeving. So, now that I've found that, I guess I either live with my existing lifelines, or with new uncoated, or assume that it's not something that is inspected that closely. After all, who's to say when I installed them? Dec 1998? Dec 2004? But I'd rather follow the rules then try to bend them. T J
ORC Regs
Just a point of clarification to T J Furstenau's point concerning ORC regulations. The rule that he refers to is the standard IF you intend to Race in a Ocean Racing Conference sanctioned event. If you are cruising and/or racing in PHRF events you can have coated lifelines if you so desire. The difference is that with uncoated wire it is easier to see defects that may exsist. Coated wire is just as strong and affective as uncoated, its just that the inspection process requires a much closer look to find defects.
Just a point of clarification to T J Furstenau's point concerning ORC regulations. The rule that he refers to is the standard IF you intend to Race in a Ocean Racing Conference sanctioned event. If you are cruising and/or racing in PHRF events you can have coated lifelines if you so desire. The difference is that with uncoated wire it is easier to see defects that may exsist. Coated wire is just as strong and affective as uncoated, its just that the inspection process requires a much closer look to find defects.
Thanks for clarification Darrel
You are correct. I ran across this as I hope to race in next year's Chicago-Mackinac race, an ORC Category 2 race. But for most bouy races, Wednesday night series type events, etc. it is not a requirement. Thanks for pointing that out. T J
You are correct. I ran across this as I hope to race in next year's Chicago-Mackinac race, an ORC Category 2 race. But for most bouy races, Wednesday night series type events, etc. it is not a requirement. Thanks for pointing that out. T J
One thing Rick, get larger diameter wire too.
If your boat was like my H34, that wire is for slicing cheese. It's also cheap for Hunter to provide as 'standard equipment' Grrr. And as Steve D said, Go with the Johnson Marine stuff. I did, it's great. And MOST IMPORTANT!!! You CANNOT transfer the measurements of one boat to another! You can't even transfer the measurements of you old lifelines if you change something like a pulpit, even if you told the rail-shop to make the new pulpit 'identical' to the old one, that you PROVIDED for them. And, your life lines could be a different length than a sister ship, same year, moored two slips down. Yes, true, they were! We tried to get new ones by sending in the old ones from my boat to Fisheries Supply in Seattle. Result? Neither set fit. So, only use your existing lifelines for a dimension check. And if you can give them to the rigger, so much the better.
If your boat was like my H34, that wire is for slicing cheese. It's also cheap for Hunter to provide as 'standard equipment' Grrr. And as Steve D said, Go with the Johnson Marine stuff. I did, it's great. And MOST IMPORTANT!!! You CANNOT transfer the measurements of one boat to another! You can't even transfer the measurements of you old lifelines if you change something like a pulpit, even if you told the rail-shop to make the new pulpit 'identical' to the old one, that you PROVIDED for them. And, your life lines could be a different length than a sister ship, same year, moored two slips down. Yes, true, they were! We tried to get new ones by sending in the old ones from my boat to Fisheries Supply in Seattle. Result? Neither set fit. So, only use your existing lifelines for a dimension check. And if you can give them to the rigger, so much the better.
Question for Fred
Hi Fred. The recommended lifeline wire for my boat, as far as I can determine, is 3/16, which, vinyl coated, has and OD of 5/16. I believe that's is on the boat at the moment (but I'm out of state right now, and i'm not positive). Anyway, are you recommending going with something with a larger diameter than 3/16-5/16 wire, or did the H34 come with something smaller? Thanks for the tip on measurements... I've actually convinced myself that this is pretty DIY, basically, so I'll have the existing lifelines to use as a template. Thanks - Rick
Hi Fred. The recommended lifeline wire for my boat, as far as I can determine, is 3/16, which, vinyl coated, has and OD of 5/16. I believe that's is on the boat at the moment (but I'm out of state right now, and i'm not positive). Anyway, are you recommending going with something with a larger diameter than 3/16-5/16 wire, or did the H34 come with something smaller? Thanks for the tip on measurements... I've actually convinced myself that this is pretty DIY, basically, so I'll have the existing lifelines to use as a template. Thanks - Rick
Rick, I'm not certain of the exact size the
factory installed but it was so small that the smallest treaded end studs available needed an adapter in order to be swagged on the tiny wire. I also made another modification as suggested by my rail shop. They loved the factory stanchions. (they're tapered) But the lower wire passed through a plastic grommet that was installed to prevent chafe BECAUSE the factory just drilled a hole. Quick and dirty, right? My shop removed the grommets and welded in a stainless sleeve to give the effect of a solid bar instead of a hollow rod. It looks kinda cool too. And it's better looking than the plastic grommet. And the lower wire is now the same large size as the top wire. Just a second. I'm going to dig up the work order to get the size wire.
Yep, 3/16"X 5/16". It's now attractive and looks 'right'. So if you now have this size, just replace it. It's great. But, of course, make sure. P.S. On my web site, the best pictures of the new lifelines, installed, are numbered in the 90s. #95.1 is a good view of a stanchion without the grommet.
factory installed but it was so small that the smallest treaded end studs available needed an adapter in order to be swagged on the tiny wire. I also made another modification as suggested by my rail shop. They loved the factory stanchions. (they're tapered) But the lower wire passed through a plastic grommet that was installed to prevent chafe BECAUSE the factory just drilled a hole. Quick and dirty, right? My shop removed the grommets and welded in a stainless sleeve to give the effect of a solid bar instead of a hollow rod. It looks kinda cool too. And it's better looking than the plastic grommet. And the lower wire is now the same large size as the top wire. Just a second. I'm going to dig up the work order to get the size wire.
Yep, 3/16"X 5/16". It's now attractive and looks 'right'. So if you now have this size, just replace it. It's great. But, of course, make sure. P.S. On my web site, the best pictures of the new lifelines, installed, are numbered in the 90s. #95.1 is a good view of a stanchion without the grommet.Hey Fred.... Great Website!
Dude.... you have WAY too much time on your hands. Excellent website that you've put together! Lots of cool pix... I really enjoyed all of it, and I'm chagrined to admit that I hadn't known it was there... otherwise I would have visited it many times before this! Hasta luego - Rick
Dude.... you have WAY too much time on your hands. Excellent website that you've put together! Lots of cool pix... I really enjoyed all of it, and I'm chagrined to admit that I hadn't known it was there... otherwise I would have visited it many times before this! Hasta luego - Rick
Lifelines
I think Defender does a decent job, at a decent price, on lifelines. Just send them your old ones and you needn't bother taking measurements that are really harder to do than one would think. Defender will also use whatever old hardware you have that they think is still usable.
I think Defender does a decent job, at a decent price, on lifelines. Just send them your old ones and you needn't bother taking measurements that are really harder to do than one would think. Defender will also use whatever old hardware you have that they think is still usable.
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