I got a new foot !

Sep 8, 2014
2,551
Catalina 22 Swing Keel San Diego
@GGordonWoody , at 22 ft LOA my mast is around 24 ft, its a roughly 2.75 x 4 inch flat-sided mast, .180 wall (if I recall correctly) and weighs roughly 80 pounds with the spreaders (again, best guess). My mast only secures to the step with a single 5/16 thru-bolt in a slot allowing the backward pivot. That set ups allows for lateral movement so the mast is stepped with the shrouds and aft lowers attached which is what keeps everything on center plane in the arc (somewhat). Your mast is probably a few feet taller and may be a beefier section, just judging by the pics of the foot. If I had to attach my mast section to a hinged step like yours I would have no problem doing it with the 3/16 rivets @ 700 lbs sheer strength, plus I wouldn't have to buy the bigger gun :) In your case I would always be on the side of caution and would probably prefer the 1/4" rivets having 1300 lb sheer strength. One way or the other, those rivet guns come with 4 sizes of tips for the most common rivets and they have multiple applications, I think it's a tool worth having.
Also, there should be no forces on the rivets while sailing as long as the mast section is FULLY seated on the mast step when it is riveted in place. The shrouds and stays put downward force on the mast which transfers directly to the step if seated... if the mast was sitting up or floating off the step even by a fraction of an inch all the forces would be in sheer on the rivets... but with say 6 rivets having a sheer strength of 1300 lbs each it would probably hold, but don't quote me on that!
 
Jun 28, 2016
334
Hunter 23.5 Paupack, PA
Also, there should be no forces on the rivets while sailing as long as the mast section is FULLY seated on the mast step when it is riveted in place
Totally agree. That connection should not budge once stepped. I try to remind myself to look at it each time at the boat, but don't always do. Thanks man, for all your input on this thing, and all your other posts in these here pages. You are definitely one of the most productive contributors. You CAT owners sure know a thing or two, especially about man-handling those keels and making them perfect. I almost wish we had a cast iron keel. Almost. HA!
 
Jun 8, 2004
10,024
-na -NA Anywhere USA
CloudDiver;
Thank you for pointing out that the mast foot must be seated all the way into the mast before drilling and pop riveting. I have seen a lot where this was not done over the years and failures as a result. Again thank you for pointing that out.
At Annapolis for many years as a dealer, I would see clients who would go to the Hunter small boat booth, then walk over to the Catalina Small boat booth and finally go look at the Precision sailboats seeing my card or boats in all three. The dealers whom I worked with and sometimes had to manage we got along as I insisted on respect for territories. Amazing how we sold more boats being a cohesive group without down playing other mfg. built boats either. Your comment about the mast foot being in place was true for all sailboats. Again thank you for bringing that up as I too know that but never mentioned it..
 
Sep 30, 2016
339
Island Packet IP 44 Ventura, CA
My mast is currently down for the winter. Upon examination, I discovered that the rivets on the mast foot are all loose, with small cracks around them or rounded out holes. The base of the mast is otherwise good. Can I just drill new holes and put in new rivets alongside the old ones? What is the fix for this situation?
 
Jun 28, 2016
334
Hunter 23.5 Paupack, PA
Can I just drill new holes and put in new rivets alongside the old ones?
Captain, I would avoid that. We know only a firmly connected foot keeps the mast in place during stepping/unstopping, and there is not much prime meat in there. Only God and the Hunter engineers know all the forces applied by the wind, boom, sheets, stays, and halyard. You wouldn't want to make a bad situation worse if say, you snap a shroud or something "out there". I don't think they cost all that much, but of course, every year we're digging out monies for these ships. So it is understandable. But also, why needlessly turn the base of your mast into Swiss cheese? So to that I say, Hunter has forgiven us many sins, but I cannot trespass where unknown forces are applied to the almighty pole. Ha!
 
Sep 30, 2016
339
Island Packet IP 44 Ventura, CA
Well, I was going to take a pic, but I guess I remembered it as worse than it really is. I went to the boat yesterday to work on a few things and when I looked at the mast foot it is really just loose rivets. The holes look fine. So I just need to remove the old ones and put in new. Whats the deal with steel vs aluminum rivets? Seems like a motor oil topic.
 
Jun 8, 2004
10,024
-na -NA Anywhere USA
both were used but steel is dissimilar metal but the funny thing I never really had a problem. One friend whom is well known said it this way. Water runs down and never pools so it should not be a problem as the water is not pooling.
 
Apr 27, 2010
1,236
Hunter 23 Lake Wallenpaupack
I had to re-rivet the fitting on the base of my H23 mast. I used aluminum: 1) If it ever twists again, I'd rather sacrifice the rivets than the mast extrusion, and I figured stainless rivets would likely rip out of the extrusion, where when I had my minor mishap, it was the aluminum rivets that failed 2) you only really need the rivet holding power as the mast is pivoted up or down, and if done properly this is not all that much force. Once up, the rivets should play no role at all.
 
Sep 30, 2016
339
Island Packet IP 44 Ventura, CA
Thanks for the info. I think I'm going with aluminum. What is the stock size, 1/4"?
 
Apr 27, 2010
1,236
Hunter 23 Lake Wallenpaupack
Don't recall - measure the depth of the hole from outside mast extrusion to inside foot fitting.
 
Sep 30, 2016
339
Island Packet IP 44 Ventura, CA
We had a warm day here in KY yesterday, so I finally got around to re-riveting the mast foot. Since the original holes were slightly enlarged from being loose over the years, I drilled the holes out to 1/4" and put in 1/4" aluminum rivets. For reference, the original size rivets are 3/16" alum, and one must plan on 1/8" of depth for your rivet size.
 
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