Hunter 216 soft floor

[PacificSailor]

Looking at a 2004 Hunter 216. I haven't seen it yet, but the owner says that the "floor under the seats is soft." Since the Hunter 216 has known issues with cracks and from experience that with water in the fiberglass, would explain a "soft floor," are there other reasons why this might be the case? The boat, in pictures, looks to be in good shape, however, it appears to not have been on the water in some time and probably stored outside. Is it worth pursuing further? Does anyone have experience repairing soft fiberglass floors?
Thanks

 

[Parsons]

The 2004 H216 was made from ACP plastic, not fiberglass. It was not cored. There was no wood on it. I experienced some cockpit floor delamination on mine, which caused a soft, bubble feeling that was completely unlike rotten core under a fiberglass deck. It did not affect the structural strength of the deck in that area. You will be able to instantly tell by pressing on it. Read Crazy Dave's excellent posts about cracking, particularly how it only affected some boats. By now, you should be able to visually inspect and not be surprised. The H216 was a cool little day sailor for me. Good luck.

 

[PacificSailor]

This is the 2004 Hunter 216's bow. Light damage, but damage. Can I put a skid plate on the front? Or how hard is it to repair plastic? I know fiberglass, but not plastic.

 

[Parsons]

Sorry - way beyond my capability and skills. That ACP is tough stuff (much more than gelcoat), so this damage must have been severe. I've beached my old boat, sometimes with more waves than I should have tried causing some pounding on rocky beaches, and never saw any damage like that. Also, looks like someone tried to glue it all together with Bondo (?). Instructions for repairs are found here - https://iblog.iup.edu/iupsailing/files/2015/01/ACP-repair-op823h.pdf and suggests using traditional fiberglass, but warns against using Acetone (a challenge, obviously)
Manual on the H216 is available from Sound Boatworks - http://www.soundboatworksllc.com/Owners Manuals/Hunter 216 Owner's Manual.pdf
Hopefully, you'll get this thing near scrap value with such extensive damage.

 

[Jackdaw]

The 2004 H216 was made from ACP plastic, not fiberglass. It was not cored. There was no wood on it. I experienced some cockpit floor delamination on mine, which caused a soft, bubble feeling that was completely unlike rotten core under a fiberglass deck. It did not affect the structural strength of the deck in that area. You will be able to instantly tell by pressing on it. Read Crazy Dave's excellent posts about cracking, particularly how it only affected some boats. By now, you should be able to visually inspect and not be surprised. The H216 was a cool little day sailor for me. Good luck.

ACP boats absolutely were cored. ACP is a laminated structure of a Lucan-S skin over foam, over a thin fiberglass shell.

 

[Parsons]

Oops - you're right I overstated this. It was not wood-cored. Thanks for the improvement Jackdaw.

 

[AZExpedition]

looks like i landed that H216.. no mast pictures - so I am having a fella swing by the lot to verify before I head up there. Got it for cheep, so some repairs and sails will not break the bank.

 

[AZExpedition]

The boat is complete - even got a good Nissan 4hp 4 stroke for cheep. The boat has not been sailed in years, stored outside in Denver was not kind. quite a few cracks to address - inside the cockpit and in the hull. Stored now outside in Phx - dry and hot - kinda the opposite.

Got a big tube of plexus and once cleaned out all the years of neglect and mud she may clean up good.


Will she keep cracking?

 

[Parsons]

Based on my internet reading (for what that's worth), the cracking was mainly associated with cold weather. I suggest you pay attention to the repair manual instructions for easing any stress on existing cracks by drilling small (1/16) holes at each end of the crack. Use a Dremel tool to carve a v-shaped groove over each crack to make the Plexus adhere nicely. In a pinch, I have used the end of a church key to carve that groove, but would not want to do that for very long as the stuff is tough.

One more bit that I did not find on the internet was the need to maintain / rebuild the integral hydraulic keel lifter. The original seals last about a decade, then need to be replaced. Many local hydraulic places could do this, but I sent mine back to the manufacturer Sailtec www.sailtec.com, and it cost about $600. They turned it around in about a month. They were real good on customer service, and had a nice little PDF instruction manual that they will email you. The most important thing being that it likes to be stored with its front part slightly raised to avoid air locks - bow up.
SAILTEC USA Marine Hydraulics, 2930 Conger Court, Oshkosh, WI 54904,
Phone: 920.233.4242 (GMT -6)
Now that you're an owner, enjoy your new fast little daysailor. We certainly did.