Holding tank vent clogged

Jul 12, 2011
1,165
Leopard 40 Jupiter, Florida
Did he tell you WHERE on the boat he would put that clamshell vent?
So I still do not see the central question that SFS and Adelboat asked -- Where? JosefR - how did the project turn out? Pictures?
I've disconnected the stanchion vent on my Catalina 36 (MkII) and will seal the through-deck hole which has caused some water intrusion to the deck (repairing that following Mainesail advice). Currently, the 3/4" vent line runs forward from the saloon waste tank, and up in cabinets behind the head. I could just bend the vent hose 90 degrees and drill a hole inside that cabinet (option 1). With a bit more work I could backtrack the line back into the saloon area, then go through the forward cabinet on the port side, but that would mean drilling through a teak finish on the back wall of that cabinet (option 2). This would shorten the vent by 3-4 feet, but also lower it on the hull below the sealed ports which I occasionally splash for failure to reef, and I don't want to ingest seawater through the vent. Is shortening the run by 1/4 going to increase the tank aeration? Anyone with a C36 have some advice? I don't see the need to increase the size of the vent to 1" as I have no tank smells following Peggy's excellent guidance and a shot of CP at the end of each day.

Also, for those who have done this modification, did you buy a new stanchion to replace the "vented" one, or can I just use a hacksaw to remove the through-deck vent?
 
Jul 7, 2004
8,402
Hunter 30T Cheney, KS
My takeaway from this thread, based on Peggy's post #28, I can replace my clam-shell vent with a mushroom and maybe help reduce spider clogs.
 

JosefR

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Sep 18, 2016
127
Catalina 30 Gulfport, Mississippi
I used a 1" sanitation hose, upgraded the barb fitting on the tank to fit the larger hose, and drilled a hole in the hull under the rubrail where I attached a throughhull. No extra holes drilled in my tank. I addressed the old hose from the stanchion by cutting it off where it went into the inaccessible space and filled the cut end with 5200. Surely not the right way to handle that, but when it's designed to be unfixable, it's the best I could hope for.
 
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