Hi all! So recently purchased an '87 Hunter 31. Everything's great so far. One thing I can't seem to figure out is the use of the built in head. A bunch of levers around the bathroom area make it seem like I'm inside a Myst game. With the only drawback of sinking the boat if a wrong level is left open. Anyway can someone please indulge me in the proper operation of this unit? In particular I can't seem to figure how to fill the head with water. I'm attaching some actual photos for reference.
Head operation on Hunter 31
- Thread starter takeajourney
- Start date
With the valves open to the holding tank. 1) Drink a beer. 2) Wait. 3) When you have sufficient bladder pressure release into the bowl. 3) With black lever on the pump pushed all the forward and down (Dry Bowl), pump the handle until the bowl is dry. 4) Pull black lever up to "Flush" and pump the handle 10-12 times to flush seawater through the bowl and clear the hoses. 5) Switch back to Dry Bowl and pump dry. You should not have to worry about sinking the boat. If the valves are left open the bowl will fill to the outside water line level and stop there. If you are sailing it may spill a bit. If the pump handle will not pump (due to back pressure) you either have a closed valve to the holding tank or the holding tank is full.
This is dangerous advice. Bowls are sometimes below the waterline and water can certainly overflow the bowl. Ideally you should have a vented loop on the (short) hose that runs from the pump to the bowl. At the very least, shut off the head water intake seacock whenever you are not aboard.
As for 10-12 pumps for each use, you are gonna fill that holding tank in a hurry if you do that.
Great! Thank you for the detailed description! You'll be glad to hear I've already got Step #1 down like pro 
In regards to valves open, I'm assuming you are referring to the two yellow levers in the 3rd pic. I'm not at the boat now but I think the right one is the one going to the toilet bowl. It's currently in the up position, do I bring it down to open the sea water valve? And leave the other one as is?
In regards to valves open, I'm assuming you are referring to the two yellow levers in the 3rd pic. I'm not at the boat now but I think the right one is the one going to the toilet bowl. It's currently in the up position, do I bring it down to open the sea water valve? And leave the other one as is?But seriously, folks. I should have been more clear. I am not suggesting leaving the through hulls open when not using the boat. I meant you will not suddenly sink if you open the wrong valve. As for 10-12 pumps, I do it every time. Keeps the hoses from getting stinky. No problems filling up the holding tank. I am not a liveaboard, however.
I cannot be sure as even similar boats sometimes are configured differently. My boat has three valves next to the holding tank. One through hull that allows the seawater in when you pump the head, one through hull that allows you to pump out into the ocean and a Y valve so you can choose between pumping into the ocean or into the holding tank. I never pump to the ocean so the Y-valve stays on holding tank. Keep through hulls closed when not using the boat.
Here's the same reply to your plea for help I posted in cruisersforum.com:
If you'll send me a private message that includes your email address (can't attach anything to a forum post or private message) , I'll send you the owner's manual for your toilet--which, btw, is a very old Wilcox-Crittenden Headmate. It will provide you with a little help to understand how it works...or is supposed to work. 'Cuz I can tell from your photos that it's very old, compounded by the fact the mfr is out of business, so you're not likely to find any repair parts for it. Even if you could, you'd just be throwing good money after bad to put even $1 into it. Best to replace it...you can buy a Jabsco manual toilet (an "entry level" toilet) for $150 or even less.
I can also see from your photos why you'd be mystified by all the levers--which, btw are seacocks. Seacocks open and close below-waterline thru-hulls (holes) in a boat. One of them is the flush water inlet thru-hull, the other is apparently a thru-hull through which the toilet discharges directly overboard (not legal in any US waters, so you'll need to install a holding tank if there isn't one on the boat.
I suggest you ask a dockmate to show you how they work. Meanwhile, keep 'em closed!
Manual marine toilets are not designed to bring water into the bowl and hold it. Each pump that brings water in also pushes it out... so it's necessary to use a cup from the sink to add water to the bowl ahead of use.
Send me a PM...I'll be glad to give you all the help you need to have a working sanitation system that's also legal.
If you'll send me a private message that includes your email address (can't attach anything to a forum post or private message) , I'll send you the owner's manual for your toilet--which, btw, is a very old Wilcox-Crittenden Headmate. It will provide you with a little help to understand how it works...or is supposed to work. 'Cuz I can tell from your photos that it's very old, compounded by the fact the mfr is out of business, so you're not likely to find any repair parts for it. Even if you could, you'd just be throwing good money after bad to put even $1 into it. Best to replace it...you can buy a Jabsco manual toilet (an "entry level" toilet) for $150 or even less.
I can also see from your photos why you'd be mystified by all the levers--which, btw are seacocks. Seacocks open and close below-waterline thru-hulls (holes) in a boat. One of them is the flush water inlet thru-hull, the other is apparently a thru-hull through which the toilet discharges directly overboard (not legal in any US waters, so you'll need to install a holding tank if there isn't one on the boat.
I suggest you ask a dockmate to show you how they work. Meanwhile, keep 'em closed!
Manual marine toilets are not designed to bring water into the bowl and hold it. Each pump that brings water in also pushes it out... so it's necessary to use a cup from the sink to add water to the bowl ahead of use.
Send me a PM...I'll be glad to give you all the help you need to have a working sanitation system that's also legal.
For what its worth, I agree with Peggy, those yellow handled valves are thru hull valves, one in and one discharge and it is a good idea to keep them shut when not aboard although I don't follow my own advice on that one because my head does not over fill. I do disagree with her on the idea that you need to take water from the sink each time you use the head though, all you need to do is go ahead and make your deposit, then, with the two yellow valves open, switch the little black tipped lever to the "wet" position and pump about 8 or 10 strokes then switch the little black tipped lever to the "dry" position and pump the bowl dry. Thats it-yer done. The number of pump strokes required depends on whether the job being handled is a number 1 or a number 2. Also, as you become accustomed to using the head you will refine the amount of water you need to use. Having said all that, it doesn't matter anyway if you are pumping directly to sea. I'm not sure what the rules are about discharging inside Tampa Bay, I suspect it is not allowed, but I don't think its a problem once you get outside the bay.
I misspoke, I meant to say "ahead of solids." Adding a couple of beer cupfuls of water to the bowl ahead of solids not only leaves the bowl a LOT cleaner AND beats the socks off taking the time to carefully line the bowl with TP first, but it also requires a lot less flush water, which helps to conserve holding tank space.
It's illegal to flush a toilet directly overboard in ALL U.S. waters inside what's known as the "3 mile limit." That doesn't mean just 3 miles from shore in a bay, harbor or river...it means you have to be in open sea at least 3 miles of the nearest point on the whole U.S. coastline (12 miles on the Gulf side of the FL Keys).
I have the 1983 version of this boat, they are sisters. There is a holding tank under the vberth cushions, it is fiberglass and is built into the boat. The cover to access it is indicated by the screws holding the top down. Unlesss the holding tank is leaking I can't imagine why your head would discharge straight overboard. I have a y valve underneath the sink in the head.
Apparently the only v-valve on your boat is in the TANK discharge line. A y-valve in the TOILET discharge line--which can easily be owner-added--to provide a choice of flushing into the tank or directly overboard is not uncommon on boats that cruise waters where it's not necessary to hold toilet waste. It's not even unusual for boats in parts of the world where there is no prohibition against flushing directly overboard to be without a tank...which would eliminate the need for ANY y-valves.
Does anyone know how big the holding tank is in a 1985 hunter 34? Also, where is it located and where is the pumpout located on deck? We recently purchased our boat and did not use the head or water last season. Also, same info on size and location of fresh water would be helpful.
Thanks,
Michele
No Comparison II
Thanks,
Michele
No Comparison II
You need to take the time to explore every inch of your boat to find out where hoses go, where the thu-hulls/seacocks are and how they work, 'cuz when your shoes start floating in the cabin is a bit late to START looking for open thru-hulls. You can find the holding tank by tracing the discharge line from the toilet. Hunter was using aluminum holding tanks in the '80s...so if yours is still original, it's likely to be leaking. If you didn't use the toilet last year, you don't know whether it works...if it's original, it most likely should be replaced. The pumpout fitting on deck should be clearly marked "waste" on its flange. Fuel fill will be marked "fuel"...water fill will be marked "water." Find the water pump...the hose coming into it will come from the water tank...which should be recommissioned, btw.
You have a lot to learn about how to operate and maintain all the systems and equipment on your boat correctly...how to recognize and solve the problems that came with the boat--and there are always plenty on an older boat--and how to PREVENT new ones instead of create 'em. The archives on the site are filled with information about every system on a boat...and the people here (most of 'em anyway) are knowledgeable and a great resource. So while the snow is still on the ground, let your learning curve begin...it'll be a rewarding ride!
You have a lot to learn about how to operate and maintain all the systems and equipment on your boat correctly...how to recognize and solve the problems that came with the boat--and there are always plenty on an older boat--and how to PREVENT new ones instead of create 'em. The archives on the site are filled with information about every system on a boat...and the people here (most of 'em anyway) are knowledgeable and a great resource. So while the snow is still on the ground, let your learning curve begin...it'll be a rewarding ride!