H34 Yanmar starter/solenoid wiring

onecoolair · Nov 21, 2012

André R. said:
I had, like many of you, the starting problem many times, but never address that problem yet. Now that I am on this long voyage and the problem accures more often, I want to deal with it. The easiest solution that I am in a position to do is to install a new wire. On my solenoid I have the big bolt that hooks a wire to the battery, one to the alternator and one coming from the harness; I also have a small connector with a screw that hooks to a wire coming from the harness. Wich one of these 2 connectors or wires from the harness do I have to change ? Would a #12 or #10 would work? And finally, my guess is that I have to drive that new wire to the push button (I still have the Yanmar key and the large push button), should I unplug the wire that is connected to that end to replace it or just add the new wire to that connection ?
Thanks again for all your inputs

André
S/V Wind Spirit 3
VE2 WDS
French blog : http://windspirit.uniterre.com

Be sides cleaning and redoing the all the connections and a new marine/auto style "off/on/momentary" solid brass key switch, I left the existing white momentary wire as is. All I did was add another white wire #10 running it along side the existing defective yanmar harness and then connecting it to the same locations as existing white momentary under sized wire. Next I installed a on/off/1/2 make before break selector switch next to engine. Number one goes to reserve/starter battery and number two goes to house bank. Now I open engine cover inspect engine turn switch to number two when I am done for the day I open engine cover inspection engine again and turn switch to off. Now I never leave battery to engine starter connected 24/7 like before. The reserve is just that, only in case main house banks get ran down to much to start engine. My main battery charger is a three bank charger. I added an echo charger to the alternator that charges the reserve while running engine. I could have attached echo to the main house "some do" but I did not want or need a constant draw on the main house banks.

kloudie1 · Nov 21, 2012

Andre'.. The white wire (may be painted gray) is the wire from the push switch to the starter control . It supplies 12V to the coil that engages the solenoid . in this picture on my 34, the gray painted wire with the rubber boot is that white wire. It is below and to the right of the red wires in the picture. Do not bother taking the other wire off, just run another white wire from that terminal on the starter to the push button white wire connector. This may not work and you may have to run another red wire as well.. If you do, be sure to put a fuse in because it is the supply to the instrument panel. It would run from the red wires on the solenoid back to the red wire on the key switch
Good luck

EDIT: I added the wiring diagram so you can see the wire paths

onecoolair · Nov 21, 2012

André R. said:
Robert,
that #10 wire is hooked on the large bolt or the small screw type connector on the solenoid ?
Thanks
André

I found this in my files...just keep all the connection locations as well as sticking to the color coding of wiring the same and you should be okay.

Tribu336 · Nov 21, 2012

Hi André.

Good to see that you are doing OK (except for that starter problem). I have the same issue on TRIBU and am planning to install a new, heavier gauge, wire next spring and get rid, once and for all, of this problem.

Good luck!

onecoolair · Nov 21, 2012

kloudie1 said:
Andre'.. The white wire (may be painted gray) is the wire from the push switch to the starter control . It supplies 12V to the coil that engages the solenoid . in this picture on my 34, the gray painted wire with the rubber boot is that white wire. It is below and to the right of the red wires in the picture. Do not bother taking the other wire off, just run another white wire from that terminal on the starter to the push button white wire connector. This may not work and you may have to run another red wire as well.. If you do, be sure to put a fuse in because it is the supply to the instrument panel. It would run from the red wires on the solenoid back to the red wire on the key switch
Good luck

Andre'.... Claude is spot on...I forgot to mention too you that you may need to do the red wire the same way and to mention you will need to peel off some gray paint to better see what's what....

onecoolair · Nov 21, 2012

André R. said:
Thanks guys for your prompt answers. I guess first I'm going to clean the paint of those 2 wires but I already know now wich one comes from the harness. I'll probably run both wires at the same time, since it is so easy to run wires. What size of fuse would you suggest on the red wire ?
Thanks again

André

P.S. Salutations Jean-Pierre et Lucie

You can use the existing 30 amp harness fuse since it should be for the same red wire. I have a 30 amp breaker for the main hot wire cable from battery cut off selector switch to starter solenoid. See uploaded diagram.

Bill Roosa · Nov 21, 2012

An alternate solution is to nuter the engine to boat harness connectors. I did a voltage drop test and the harness to boat was where most of the loss was. It also has the oil pressure, alternator idiot lamp and water temp sensors with it. noticed my oil pressure and water temp changed when I replaced the connection with soldered connections. The wires where fine BTW just the connectors that where bad.
Probably easier and longer lasting (for the sensor wires) than running a new wire.

onecoolair · Nov 21, 2012

André R. said:
Sorry, lack of knowledge I guess, what is "nuter the engine to boat harness connectors"...
Thanks
André

I don't know either ?? Maybe it as something to do with your dog or cat...

Dan Johnson · Nov 23, 2012

Andre...

For your reference, here's pix of the starter relay solution with parts labeled...

Also, here's a wiring drawing for using a Ford type starter relay...

onecoolair · Nov 23, 2012

Dan Johnson said:
For your reference, here's pix of the starter relay solution with parts labeled...

Also, here's a wiring drawing for using a Ford type starter relay...

I tried the same relay as advised....could not get it to work....Good luck with that!

Claude L.-Auger · Nov 24, 2012

onecoolair said:
I tried the same relay as advised....could not get it to work....Good luck with that!

Don't know why you could not get it to work but I installed it on my 3GM30F as well as 4 of my friends' boats (all Yanmar engines) and it has been working flawlessly for 4 years on all 5 engines. Good luck André.

Dan Johnson · Nov 25, 2012

Ditto...

Make that six engines it has worked on...

kloudie1 · Nov 25, 2012

Mine too, for soon to be 7.. haven't put it on yet but I have all the parts on board to do it.. I cleaned all of the connectors early in the year and tightened the pins in the connectors.. spent a couple of hours doing that.. The start button worked like a charm for about 8 months .. and now it is acting up again.. so the start relay is going to be installed in the next month or so.

Claude L.-Auger · Dec 8, 2012

André R. said:
Hey Dan,
just bought the Radio Shack relay, it was out of its packaging and the last one in stock so I took it but I can't find any info about the connection. There is numbers on the unit, is it possible to let me know whitch numbers go where ?
Thanks in advance.
André

Salut André,

Have included the drawing I had received from Dan a few years ago and a cleaned up version of the dwg as well as a picture showing the installation. Dan I hope it's OK with you ! André, l'll send you a pm through this site with my phone number here in Cocoa, FL. You can contact me when you get near here and I'll be happy to help with any problems you might have, or provisioning if needed. Regards. Claude

Dan Johnson · Dec 9, 2012

Claude/Andre...

Claude: No problem in cleaning up that drawing--it wasn't mine but yours is much easier to understand now.

Andre: The relay numbering is pretty standard. I think this is what the terminals should be wired as (should be a pictograph screened on the relay housing - 85/86 are the relay coil):

30 = Fused with 30 amp fuse (equal to the RS relay's rating) to a heavy positive power lead - 10 AWG - (taken from the battery lead [big post] on the starter)

87 = Terminal on starter relay where starter button wire was connected

85 = Wire from the starter button

86 = Black wire to ground

The picture shows the fuse wired between the relay and the starter solenoid. I feel it shoud be on the incoming current lead side into the RS relay instead--how I've wired it on my boat. The RS relay wiring pictured is mostly white, but the black one is definately to ground.

Hope this helps

H34 Yanmar starter/solenoid wiring

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