Got Questions? Ask Them Here.

[dlochner]

Question: What is forming this layer on my Gori prop?

View attachment 131058 View attachment 131059
I can scrape it off with a piece of hard plastic. It is immune to vinegar, CLR, acetone, paint stripper, and denatured alcohol. As you can see, once scraped off, the finish is bright and shinny. I'm in fresh water, and have magnesium anodes on my stainless shaft. The spotty appearance in the "unscraped" area is due to some light marine growth that I washed off after haulout (can't remember if the growth was on the bare metal spots, or where the "layer of stuff" is. Once scraped, the surface is smooth (no pitting or difference in surface height).

Any idea on what this is? And what might make it easier to remove?
Chris

Magnesium Oxide. It is not an issue and a by product of the magnesium anode decaying. If you change to aluminum anodes you'll get the same coating, only it will be aluminum oxide. Had a similar concern with my Max-Prop and was advised by Max-Prop to not worry about it and leave it there.

Dave

 

[Cmp1110]

Maybe not so quick question what is involved in converting a European 220 50hz to USA power?
Some sort of converter or retire the boat?
A friend and I have been kicking around what is involved..
Thanks in advance

 

[Maine Sail]

Which US power do you want to convert to??

120V 30A
120V 50A
240v 50A

 

[Cmp1110]

I'm sorry 120 50 amp

 

[brazenarticle]

Hello Mainesail... I'm planning to move my house bank ( 2 -6 volt batteries) forward and to starboard on my Catalina. Ease of access - they are now behind the stern bulkhead - and mitigating the Catalina port list are the reason.
Currently all the batteries are in the stern behind the engine. I have an ACR mounted behind the 1-2 BOTH switch at the panel and 100 watts of solar running through a Morningstar Duo to the house bank. I only use one side of the Duo since adding the ACR.
The alternator output also ran to the house bank based on previous discussions and advice in this forum.
There is a Balmar Smart Guage too, read early in the morning and in the evening since the solar throws the numbers off during the day. I'm most interested in SOC in the morning, if necessary I shut down the refrigerator till I get a charge.
QUESTION - when I move the house bank the wire run will be about 12 feet to the main panel. I plan on still running the solar to the house bank. Can I run the alternator output to the start battery (much shorter cable) and depend on the ACR to sort out charging?

 

[Mickstr]

Mainsail, 2 questions on Bilge Pump...
1. My O'Day 322 has only two wires going to the bilge, a hot and ground. The hot is switched by a breaker on the CB panel. I had wired the automatic wire pump to this hot wire, and leave the breaker on. A friend also has a 322 but he says he has three wires, one hot direct from the 3 way switch or battery (not sure yet), a second wire switched by a breaker as mine is, and a ground. He wires the always hot to the automatic lead, the switched hot to the manual lead, and the ground to ground.
Would you recommend I add a 2nd "always" hot wire to power the automatic side of the pump, and use the breaker switched hot as a manual pump like my friends? Or, wire the switched wire to the pump automatic lead, no wire to the manual, and use the breaker to arm the automatic pump?
2. The reason I'm looking at my bilge is my Rule-Mate 750 Automatic float failed. Luckily I observed it and was able to manually empty the bilge. My boat is wintering in the water this year, so I'm anxious to get a new float switch on board. I see you recommend the Pump Float Switch Junior, which I'm ordering today, but I'm wondering about mounting. I don't have room for a bracket as I've seen you use, as my bilge is rather small, maybe 2 feet long, 6-8" wide and 8 or so inches deep (going by memory here). From the info on Amazon, it comes with a bracket to attach to a round pump. Do you have a recommendation for the pump?
Thanks.

 

[Maine Sail]

QUESTION - when I move the house bank the wire run will be about 12 feet to the main panel. I plan on still running the solar to the house bank. Can I run the alternator output to the start battery (much shorter cable) and depend on the ACR to sort out charging?

This is not a good practice due to what is called relay cycling..

 

[Maine Sail]

1. My O'Day 322 has only two wires going to the bilge, a hot and ground. The hot is switched by a breaker on the CB panel.

This is ok for a "primary feed" but your bilge pump MUST use a fuse no larger than the pump makers recommended fuse size. It is much more preferable that your primary fuse or breaker be wired to an "always on" bus or direct to the house bank positive un-switched bus and that your three position switch has the proper sized fuse in it for the pump.

I had wired the automatic wire pump to this hot wire, and leave the breaker on. A friend also has a 322 but he says he has three wires, one hot direct from the 3 way switch or battery (not sure yet), a second wire switched by a breaker as mine is, and a ground. He wires the always hot to the automatic lead, the switched hot to the manual lead, and the ground to ground.

For a three-way bilge switch (AUTO-OFF-MANUAL), always recommended, this is the correct wiring diagram to use.

Please pay close attention to the switch being in the positive conductors NOT the negative.

Would you recommend I add a 2nd "always" hot wire to power the automatic side of the pump, and use the breaker switched hot as a manual pump like my friends? Or, wire the switched wire to the pump automatic lead, no wire to the manual, and use the breaker to arm the automatic pump?

I would recommend you purchase a good three-way bilge switch, follow the diagram above, and use the correct size fuse for the pump. Wiring should be 3% volt drop max..

A "properly" designed bilge pumping system for a boat over 25' will look like this.

Emergency Pump = Largest Rule or other centrifugal pump you can physically fit. Pair it with an Ultra Safety Systems Junior or Senior float switch set at a higher level. (IMPORTANT: DO NOT USE CHECK VALVES ON CENTRIFUGAL PUMPS)

Nuisance Water Pump = Diaphragm pump (check valves are okay on diaphragm pumps) and an Ultra Safety Systems Junior or Senior float switch set for lowest desired water level. Note: All wiring for electric pumps shall be sized for no more than a 3% voltage drop.

Manual Pump = Henderson/Whale etc. with no check valve just a strainer.

2. The reason I'm looking at my bilge is my Rule-Mate 750 Automatic float failed. Luckily I observed it and was able to manually empty the bilge. My boat is wintering in the water this year, so I'm anxious to get a new float switch on board. I see you recommend the Pump Float Switch Junior, which I'm ordering today, but I'm wondering about mounting. I don't have room for a bracket as I've seen you use, as my bilge is rather small, maybe 2 feet long, 6-8" wide and 8 or so inches deep (going by memory here). From the info on Amazon, it comes with a bracket to attach to a round pump. Do you have a recommendation for the pump?
Thanks.

Folks really need to stop buying this crap. (grin) Rule-Mate or Rule Automatic pumps = JUNK. Rule float switches = JUNK. Standard Rule two wire centrifugal pumps are still marginally reliable. Use the biggest one that will fit preferably a 2000GPH or more.

I would urge all boaters:

Do not share hoses
Do not share thru-hull fittings
Do not use check valves on centrifugal pumps
Do not use corrugated hose
Do not allow any dips/water traps in outlet hose
Do not fuse the pump at beyond the manufacturers suggested fuse size
Do not use any 90 Degree fittings

Do use smooth walled crush-resistant hose
Do buy the biggest pump you can fit
Do use quality bilge switches
Do use waterproof splices
Do keep all terminations out of bilge water
Do use wire that results in the least voltage drop
Do use a dual or tri-pump configuration
Do install a high water alarm
Do use a siphon break

 

[brazenarticle]

This is not a good practice due to what is called relay cycling..

If I run #1 cable from the batteries (2x6v) under the starboard side of the v berth to a positive buss bar behind the electrical panel (midship port side) can I use one of the original #4 cables from the alternator to the buss bar? Then also wire the solar panel output to that buss. So battery, alternator, solar and 1/2/both switch to the buss bar.
Does it matter if the connection is at the battery end or behind the panel?
Balmar Smart gauge all the way to the battery terminal.
Start battery remains as is, to engine ground buss bar and positive to the back of 1/2/both switch

 

[VanIslandGuy]

Hi Maine Sail,

Quick question. Have you ever used this product? Any comments good or bad would be appreciated. I found your fantastic article on buffing and waxing unfortunately after I had already purchased this product.

3M™ Marine Compound and Finishing Material, 06044

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/...-06044-32-fl-oz-12-per-case?N=3293938972&rt=d

My local marine store guy has said that 3M was really confident that this was there next big thing so to speak, and it would save time. I've had good luck with 3M before.

My plan was to follow your steps with this product, and a 05711 wool compound pad. If more finish depth is required I would repeat with one of the polishes you suggested prior to applying collinite wax. The boat is a 1998 Hunter 410, which has spent most of it's life in Washington State on freshwater, and the last year on Vancouver Island in saltwater. The finish isn't chalky to the touch but it is flat. The boat is all white, with the exception of a boot stripe. I plan on removing all vinyl markings before getting started.

 

[Tally Ho]

Mainesail,

Prop shaft replacement on my O'Day 322

I sail on the Great Lakes,day sailing mostly.

I have a 51" long 1" diameter bronze shaft that I need to replace due to a crack (hairline) and wear at the stuffing box.

I think I read that you recommend A22 shaft material. Would you recommend that in my case?

Also, I read you like the split coupling. What are the advantages over a solid coupling?

When a shaft shop fits and faces the coupling to the shaft, will I still be able to get the coupling off (so I can get it installed in the boat) and how hard is it to line up the dimples for the set screws?

I am great full for your tip to remove the cutlass bearing to help get the shaft past the rudder. I also pulled the shaft log and stuff box out. You can add the O'Day 322 to the list of boats this will work on! Thanks for that.

Greg

 

[Rodd]

Maine,
I noticed that I have about 8 wires terminated on both my positive and negative distribution posts. Should I cut this down to 4 each by adding a second + and - post, or should I use one of those bus bars (plus and minus) with several terminals on each bar? Any difference electrically?

Thanks.
Rodd

 

[jssailem]

I just completed the rewire of my batteries and instal of the Sterling Charger I bought from you 6 months ago. I knew I would be needing to replace the old one. Just did not expect it in the middle of winter while staying on the boat.
So I wired everything and turned on the Pro Ultra Smart Charger. It started with the Sealed Battery setting. I changed it to the Flood Battery Setting which matched the current Interstate Group 24 12 volt batteries that will be replaced in the near future. I was concerned that the voltage reading was 15.1 with 6.8 amps. It is now in float and the voltage reading is down to 13.9 and 6.7 amps.
Question is this the correct setting to use? I thought you recommended a voltage setting of 14.8. Do I need to alter this program? I am using the preset 1 option.
Thanks for your help.

 

[Northstar1014]

Ask away!

My cape dory 27 is on a mooring (north shore of massachusetts).

For my pennants, I presently have followed MaineSail's method of 2 Yale Maximoors lashed with toggle buoys along the way. Unfortunately I have found that one or both of the pennants wrap on occasion, which I believe is due to the fact that the mooring ball is a top ball chain connection, not an under-ball connection. As this is a rental mooring, I cannot change the configuration and I also dont know if there is a swivel in the chain setup

Last summer, an instance of chain wrap damaged one of my pennants, so this year I am looking for a solution to protect them. I have found surplus canvas firehose in a few different diameters. My proposed solution is to thread the pennants through firehouse, either both through one big hose, or individually through their own smaller hose, then lash the toggle buoys on as usual.

I have included photos -- should I go with both pennants through the same hose, or thread them individually through their own hose? I am leaning towards both through the same, on the grounds that this would make it unlikely that one pennant would wrap around the mooring chain. Thank you for any help.

 

[Northstar1014]

Mainesail -- I know you are the mooring pennant guru -- would love your advice on the above. Question -- If I go with both pennants through the bigger fire hose, note that the inner liner is rubber lined. Would that cause you concern about chafe with the two pennants in there together surrounded by rubber liner?

 

[Maine Sail]

Mainesail -- I know you are the mooring pennant guru -- would love your advice on the above. Question -- If I go with both pennants through the bigger fire hose, note that the inner liner is rubber lined. Would that cause you concern about chafe with the two pennants in there together surrounded by rubber liner?

If it is chain wrap even the fire hose won't be a cure. The waist of your ball must float below the surface of the water or you will continue to have chain wrap.

 

[Northstar1014]

OK thank you. I will see if I can adjust the ball float depth. My instance of chain wrap last summer happened because my longer pennant quite a bit of slack in it. Would you have concerns about two pennants inside a rubber lined firehose? The hose has a 2.5 inch inner diameter, so very loose on the pennants. I didnt know if heat build up from load cycling would be an issue, but thinking not since they are in water anyway.

 

[H33CRich]

Hello MaineSail
I recently purchased a Pearson 37-2 and am in the process of converting it from a dock-side condo to a cruising vessel with extended range. After removing the electric range (can't believe they actually did that) and replacing it with a non-pressurized alcohol stove, i am ready to set sights on the Xantrax square wave (2500VA) inverter. I have narrowed my choice down to the Victron MultiPlus (3000 VA or ~2500 W) and the MagaSine Hybrid. The difference in cost is about $400-600 more for the MagnaSine.
The reason I am looking at these models is that they have power assist modes that shore-up an AC supply to meet load demand. The Air-conditioner will need more power than the 35kW generator can supply at times. The hybrid would help meet that occasional demand.
What's your take on power assist (hybrid) and are there things I should be looking out for while configuring the system?
FYI - my AC side of the house can be switched to either shore power or generator but not both. This switch is enforced at the source selection AC electric panel via sliders. I would suspect that a smart device like the Victron or MagnaSine could make the determination but i have not considered venturing into doing it with these devices yet.
Aside from the price, i am leaning towards the Victron because of its extensibility with a network interface to go along with several remote display device options.

Thoughts?

 

[Maine Sail]

Maine Sail
Just installed a new BlueSeas BatteryLink with internal ACR. When the batteries are combined, there is a very annoying hum around 2k hz. I called BlueSeas and the tech said this is normal. Is it?

What bank is it chagrin and which bank is the ACR feeding...

Maine Sail
Just installed a new BlueSeas BatteryLink with internal ACR. When the batteries are combined, there is a very annoying hum around 2k hz. I called BlueSeas and the tech said this is normal. Is it?

I've not installed one of these but I don't know why there would be a hum. The problems with that charger are:

A) It's ACR is not bi-sensing thus you can't put solar or alt on house and expect it to combine with start when the charger is not on. Every charge source must pass through the start side for the ACR to work. Feeding house first on deeply cycle banks is a very standard wiring configuration.
B) The charger feeds the start battery. The house is charged via the ACR. If the house bank is depleted enough the relay just cycles on & off because the charger may not have the amperage to hold it at combine level. This is why standard best practice with ACR's is to feed all charge sources to house and let it come up to combine level first.
C) That charger is really only suited for about a 100Ah bank and I don't really work on boats with banks that small so can't really help with the hum..

It's really designed for small center consoles etc.. If your usage is very light it may work.

 

[Sefuller]

@Maine Sail, in your article on lacing floats to the mooring pendants, you show a picture of your floats under an inflatable or soft buoy. I would be interested in using a soft buoy if possible, but not sure which ones would be appropriate, if any. We are in a mooring field on Lake Michigan, 17' depth, protected by a double break wall so wave action is fairly minimal even in 50 knot winds.

Thanks.