Sounds like the relay is gone. There are much simpler combiners made today but they won't work with your pathemaker remote panel and you can't adjust the cut in/out like you could with the old Pathmaker. Hamilton Marine in Portland still has one on the shelf but I'd suggest a Yandina or Blue Seas ACR combining relay.Got down to the dock and my boat has a loud electrical noise, almost as loud as the Espar heater. My first keelboat and it is humming like it is going to blow up like a Klingon ship. I find the culprit and it is my battery isolator panel. What would have happened if I did not get down there ? Why, old age ? Which unit do you suggest I use to replace it. How old is it ?
Should I ditch the matching old Link 2000 that likes to stop the button functions on me ?
Thanks for any advice, have read many of your posts.
I have yet to see any boat that pulled a negative pressure in the engine compartment, not to say it can't be done. Interestingly enough I had a friend about 12 years ago who was convinced that his "lake boat" with dual honking V8 engines was not performing due to being starved of air. The compartment seemed to "tight" to him. I grabbed my draft tester for setting up & tuning heating systems and even at WOT with both engines sucking lots of gas and fuel we never saw negative pressure in the engine compartment.Maine, I have one for you. What do you think about installing a "snorkel" for the air intake on the engine. Say up under a lazerette seat with a remote air filter? I always wonder how the engine gets enough fresh air when we spend so much time sealing the engine bay off to contain noise. Have you ever seen this? Just askin'
Thanks for that, somehow I just knew you had tested this. I should have thought of doing the same, but then, I'm me. I'll put it on the list. CheersI have yet to see any boat that pulled a negative pressure in the engine compartment, not to say it can't be done. Interestingly enough I had a friend about 12 years ago who was convinced that his "lake boat" with dual honking V8 engines was not performing due to being starved of air. The compartment seemed to "tight" to him. I grabbed my draft tester for setting up & tuning heating systems and even at WOT with both engines sucking lots of gas and fuel we never saw negative pressure in the engine compartment.
These draft gauges are pretty accurate and perhaps you could borrow one. With the bilge blower running it could possibly cause a negative pressure but still doubtful. Find a draft tester and check it out..
Snotter,Maine, I was at Harbor Frieight the other day and I saw a hydraulic battery cable crimper for sale. I believe the price was 59$. It came with a number of different dies. (Sorry I didn't think of taking a picture.) Do you think they are any good. I'm currently using the kind of wire cable crimper that you have to beat with a hammer. I've made many crimps with it and none have failed yet.
Maine, in addition to 3 group 27 deep-cycle batteries on my boat, I have 2 4D batteries. The 4Ds are wet-cell tractor batteries built to withstand vibration. The big suckers are only 115 AHs and are not classified deep-cycle. I've recently looked and I could not find anyone on the internet selling wet-celled, deep-cycle 4D batteries. Do you know of a source that will deliver reasonably?Ask away!
That's because I know of no manufacturer building true wet Deep Cycle 4D's. Many claim they are but most are not. WM claims their 4D's are dual purpose not deep cycle. The average 4D is 8.5" wide so even a group 24 won't fit across the box. You could put them end to end though and you should have about 42" to work with. Three group 31's should fit end to end though and would give more Ah's than three group 24's. The US Battery group 31 has 130 Ah's X 3 = 390 Ah bankMaine, in addition to 3 group 27 deep-cycle batteries on my boat, I have 2 4D batteries. The 4Ds are wet-cell tractor batteries built to withstand vibration. The big suckers are only 115 AHs and are not classified deep-cycle. I've recently looked and I could not find anyone on the internet selling wet-celled, deep-cycle 4D batteries. Do you know of a source that will deliver reasonably?
I really like the built-in FRP box that the batteries are in and do not want to rip the box out. The box is configured for 2 4Ds end-to-end. I wonder if 3 group 24's would fit in the box and provided me with more than 230 AHs?
Looks like Dyno is having batts built to their specs so they very well could be but I'd call to make sure..I have a Dyno 4D deep cycle for my house battery. Is this not a real deep cycle?
http://www.dynobattery.com/prod01.htm