I have a Beneteau 323. Original Neil Pryde sails. On starboard side of genoa were two reefing points. Had some sail repairs done and the sailmaker removed the black stripes that marked the two reefing points(roller furler). I cannot find out how far these two marked points were from the luff. Any 323 owners know? Thanks
Reef marks
- Thread starter Mike8193
- Start date
Probably not what you want to hear, but ... the purpose of roller-furling is to give unlimited adjustments when furling, like the adjustments on a stove, rather than fixed stops. For my part, I just glance forward and see about two wrap, and call it good. Any rolling destroys the nice luff entry shape, so it's a compromise anyhow.
If you really want an indication of how much you have out, however, may I suggest you stretch the sail back on a windless day and make your own marks using draft stripe tape (for example, http://www.sailrite.com/Draft-Tape-Red-1), which you can do in multiple colors if you like. I suggest making marks only for a 10 and 20% reduction as more than that the shape of your genoa is completely shot. For example, if you have a 155% genoa, measure back and furl to 140 (10%) and 125 (20%).
If you really want an indication of how much you have out, however, may I suggest you stretch the sail back on a windless day and make your own marks using draft stripe tape (for example, http://www.sailrite.com/Draft-Tape-Red-1), which you can do in multiple colors if you like. I suggest making marks only for a 10 and 20% reduction as more than that the shape of your genoa is completely shot. For example, if you have a 155% genoa, measure back and furl to 140 (10%) and 125 (20%).
In my opinion, reef marks on a roller furling jib are not very useful - not because as Parsons says you can reef at any point, but because a well made roller furling and reefing jib should have foot and leech reinforcements sewn on at common reef points. In a 135%, say at 110% and 90%. If you don't have the reinforcements, it will quickly and prematurely stretch out the sail when you roll it up to reef. It's why there are heavy reinforcements at head, clew, and tack of any sail.
I guess the first question of mine would be, does your main have traditional reefing points? if it does then I can understand the marks on the jib referencing reef points. This would likely be done as a starting point to maintain the balance between the main and jib when the main is reefed, if the main is roller furling then I wouldn't see the need to mark the jib.
I assume your question was regarding the OEM 116% JIB? I was going to go down to the boat (a couple hundred yards away) but it is rainy and thunder. Not to worry, I have my spare jib laying on the living room floor. Of course the foot was rolled up inside the sail, so undid it. The two marks are along the foot, maybe 6 inches long, pointed on the end. The two reef points are 18 and 36 inches from the tack corner of the sail.
Beneteau & Neil Pryde have an advisory that references the jib fair lead car position to the reef marks on the jib to maximize sail trim. If you mark the 3 positions on the fair lead track, when reefing the jib to one of the marks on the jib, you can do a quick & dirty adjustment to the corresponding car position. Then, fine tune the car as needed.
Not an absolute necessity but it does get you in the ball park quickly.
Not an absolute necessity but it does get you in the ball park quickly.