My Hunter 340 came wired per the butt-simple first diagram, only with two group 24 deep-cycles in parallel on #1, and it worked just fine. Ran the boat on the house batts only, and kept a group 24 start battery as the reserve, just in case. That little 3GM started with no effort, even after an all day sail across Lake Ontario using refrigeration, instruments, autohelm (intermittently), and a notebook computer on an inverter for 10 hours.
I did have a 30A, 3 circuit charger, though, with 2 of them combined for the house batts, and the other for the reserve batt., per the manufacture's instructions (again, factory, I think), so the reserve battery only got charged when I used shore power, which I tried to make a point of doing when spending any time at a dock.
Since my new (to me) Macgregor 26X has a total mess for wiring, I'm going to rewire it the same way, but add an ACR to keep the reserve battery topped up. 1/both/2/off switch again used as an on/off switch only, unless I run the house batt. down. Need to do something about a shore power charger, but with the ACR, I may only need a single output.
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1. What's an ACR?
2. Do you have a diagram of the circuit you ended up with? I did a search on this site and didn't find answer to fixing the mess on the 2005 Mac 26M I recently bought. Motor battery works fine but doesn't charge from the engine. House battery charges but has a maze of wires going to a switch panel and none of the interior electric or boat lights work. Whoever wired this must have been drunk. It has a 1,2 or both switch but none of the settings seem to change anything. Motor starts on 1 or both. Thanks, Mike
I also have a Beneteau equipped with two ON/OFF switches. Here's a helpful diagram showing how to wire the third "emergency combine" switch:Three ON/OFF switches...
An ON for HOUSE
An ON for ENGINE
AN BOTH for EMERGENCY COMBINE or ISOLATION
Same thing, different graphicsI also have a Beneteau equipped with two ON/OFF switches. Here's a helpful diagram showing how to wire the third "emergency combine" switch:
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=6604.0;attach=4447;image
Yes, it would be, but not a problem, but MS also included the suggestion to include an "alternator service switch" to turn off when working on the engine/alternator. I simply remove the fuse when working on it. If using a switch, make sure it's closed before the engine starts.Maine I have just installed my wiring as per your post and wired the + house battery cable directly to the alternator, with a fuse within the 7 inches from the battery and a on/off switch to work on the engine.
My questions is: Would there be a problem to the alternator internals by having a constant open power feed from the batteries? What I mean is when not in use, the alternator will be always "on". Thanks.
Thank you Bill and Stu.Yes, it would be, but not a problem, but MS also included the suggestion to include an "alternator service switch" to turn off when working on the engine/alternator. I simply remove the fuse when working on it. If using a switch, make sure it's closed before the engine starts.
You would rotate through OFF to get to #2 not through BOTH to get to #2. However a momentary quick pass through BOTH won't hurt much, just don't leave it there...I am in the process of wiring my boat after a complete structural rebuild and cannot believe my good fortune in finding this thread. Exactly the dilemma I am facing.
I hurriedly bought 2x 6v 232ahr batteries and what the marine shop recommended in the way of battery switch & ACR.)
(DCP & SI-ACR blueseas) in favour of my Perko 2/all/1/off and a vanilla (Auto?) relay that was part of the orig. 3gm30 install to combine batteries for charging.
After pondering the possibilities of the DCP before the install I decided to google..................Wow!
Firsty, many thanks to MS, Stu, & several others that have the patience to speak it like it is without agendas-Bravo
However comprehensive the discussion has been I have not seen the following:
If you are on bank "one" (Perko), and that bank has a melt down (short) and an emergency situation exists, how do you get to bank "two" without momentarily connecting "all" which could short "2" as well? (Without pulling fuses/connections) Install a switch on both negatives? I want to return my DCP & utilise the Perko+1 or install 3 switches.
Also, hopefully marine shop will do a deal on 2x12v instead of the current 2x6v.
All the best for 2016.
I figured if I lose a cell I no longer have a house bank, whereas if I lose a cell in 2x12V I just disconnect one battery?Maine Sail said:I don't know why you would return the 6V batts in favor of a 12V house bank unless the 12V batts are truly a deep cycle product, most are not, beyond what the sticker says.
While I am no fan of the Perko switches, as in I will not install new ones, if the banks had been installed with over-current protection, as they really should be, the fuse would have tripped long before the switch welded. Without bank fusing you can create many dangerous situations..I have had perko switches weld in the both position due to a shorted bank ad the second time due to my stupidity.
I will only use switches that DO NOT have to go thru both to switch banks.