Was going to replace my lower mast tangs and did something stupid....

kito

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Sep 13, 2012
2,011
1979 Hunter Cherubini 30 Clemmons
I had my mast hanging on hooks on my fence in the backyard. A while back I removed the lower tangs that were not the correct size so I stuck a wood dowel through the holes to keep the compression tube in place. Well today I moved the mast to some saw horses so I can paint, rewire etc. and the darn dowel fell out and now the compression tube is somewhere in the middle of a 40 foot long mast. I can probably retrieve it somehow but I'm looking for ideas to get the dang thing back in place. Anyone else have to deal with this?
 

DougM

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Jul 24, 2005
2,242
Beneteau 323 Manistee, MI
If the mast is open at the base, tipit up and let the compression tube slide out.
Then, you might be able to clear out internal halyards, lightly tape it as a "T" to a fish tape, push it up in tp position, secure it, then pull the fish tape free. Just an idea, no prior experience....
 

Ritdog

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Jul 18, 2011
184
Oday 25 Portland, ME
I would take the mast top off, or bottom, get the tube out, string it on to a line, then use an electrical fish line or long stiff wire to get one end of the string down to the hole on one side of the mast. Pull that end of the line through. Do the same for the other end of the line, then pull tight. Will line up automatically! I hope this is clear.
 
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kito

.
Sep 13, 2012
2,011
1979 Hunter Cherubini 30 Clemmons
Both are excellent ideas, thanks a ton. The bottom is open and after shining a light down, first thing I need to do is clear out the old rats nests. It was sitting on the ground at the PO's place and apparently became a rat condo. I can rig something on the end of a fish tape to clear it out. Tilting it is not an option since it's 40 foot long. I would have to climb my tallest tree and use a block and tackle to get the tilt I need. Hopefully I can rig something on the fish tape to grab the tube and pull it down. This crap really aggravates me when it's due to my own stupidity. Like I don't have enough to do. :banghead:
 

JRacer

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Aug 9, 2011
1,331
Beneteau 310 Cheney KS (Wichita)
Got any neighbors with a two story house you can get on the roof and stand the stick up?
 

Johnb

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Jan 22, 2008
1,419
Hunter 37-cutter Richmond CA
You don't need that much of a tilt to move it down the inside of the mast if you judiciously tap it with a mallet or piece of 2X4 with something soft (folded up rubber mat) protecting the mast.

Before committing seppuku (Hara-Kiri) remember the fellow who glued his rudder shaft into the boat while trying to remove play in the tube.
 

kito

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Sep 13, 2012
2,011
1979 Hunter Cherubini 30 Clemmons
How about spraying with a hose or shop vac to blow it out.
Yep, I was just thinking about removing the masthead and use my pressure washer to blow it out. It could use a good cleaning inside anyway. I located the tube and it is above the tang hole and would have to spray from the top. Kind of wished now that I still had my old chimney cleaning kit ;)
 
Jun 23, 2013
271
Beneteau 373 Newport
How about a new tube - open hole on one side of mast to allow it to be inserted. Length a little longer to match outer side of mast on side with new hole. Still provides compression feature
 

kito

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Sep 13, 2012
2,011
1979 Hunter Cherubini 30 Clemmons
How about a new tube - open hole on one side of mast to allow it to be inserted. Length a little longer to match outer side of mast on side with new hole. Still provides compression feature
Good idea. I may use for last resort.
 
Dec 2, 2003
751
Hunter 260 winnipeg, Manitoba
If you are able to get the old tube out or a replacement you could try feeding a lite strong line(maybe Mason's line or similar) through the mast tang holes from one side and out the other. You could then use an electricians snake or similar to snag the line in the mast and pull the Center of the line down and out out through the mast base. Cut the line, pass it through the centre of the tube, tie the line back together, and slowly pull the line as straight as possible. This should allow the tube to get to near horizontal so you can finish the job with a rod or another piece of dowel.

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Last edited:
Mar 1, 2012
2,182
1961 Rhodes Meridian 25 Texas coast
A compression tube SHOULD clear the mast on each side. It should NOT be against the inside of the mast. Purpose is to allow the fitting to be tightened, without putting pressure on the mast wall. Bore new holes the size of your new tube, size it to JUST be just to the mast surface, ,and install the bolt.
 
Jan 19, 2010
12,362
Hobie 16 & Rhodes 22 Skeeter Charleston
I would take the mast top off, or bottom, get the tube out, string it on to a line, then use an electrical fish line or long stiff wire to get one end of the string down to the hole on one side of the mast. Pull that end of the line through. Do the same for the other end of the line, then pull tight. Will line up automatically! I hope this is clear.
Brilliant!
And this is why it is a good idea to read SBO posts.... I'll tuck that idea away for a "rainy day".
 

kito

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Sep 13, 2012
2,011
1979 Hunter Cherubini 30 Clemmons
Update: I know you all have been waiting on the edge of your seats for an update ;) After removing the masthead and several attempts to just get my fish tape down the length without getting hung up, I was able to clear the compression tube out by attaching one of those thick fuzzy house dusters to the fish tape. I just pulled it through and out came the tube. Thanks to Ritdog for the string idea. I just used thin kite string and worked great. Too thick of rope my have gotten wedged between the tube end and side wall before it got vertical. The pisser is that all this was a waste of time. The new tangs were too thick to fit in the tang slot on the spreader bracket. I ended up putting the old ones back on :(
 

kito

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Sep 13, 2012
2,011
1979 Hunter Cherubini 30 Clemmons
I removed the PO's spreader dock lights and wire and need to plug the wire hole. It's not on the flat area but on the radius. Any mast hole plugging tips?
 

EV21

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Apr 29, 2016
94
Macgregor 21 Venture Delaware ...
Definitely learn a lot from reading here but may be too new to understand some of the explanations. twalker H260's suggestion looks good but seems like it may be in conflict with TSBB 2's contention that the compression tube should clear the mast on each side. TSBB 2 -- are you meaning that the compression tube ends are flush with the outer surfaces of the mast?
 

kito

.
Sep 13, 2012
2,011
1979 Hunter Cherubini 30 Clemmons
Definitely learn a lot from reading here but may be too new to understand some of the explanations. twalker H260's suggestion looks good but seems like it may be in conflict with TSBB 2's contention that the compression tube should clear the mast on each side. TSBB 2 -- are you meaning that the compression tube ends are flush with the outer surfaces of the mast?
It depends. My lower tangs are attached at the spreader bracket. The tube is against the inside wall which is perfectly fine. There is a collared bushing on each side that goes through the tangs. A bolt goes through the entire assembly and tightened with a nut.
 

EV21

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Apr 29, 2016
94
Macgregor 21 Venture Delaware ...
Is the function of the bushings to allow the tangs to rotate freely? I ask because on the rig that came with my boat (that was disassembled so I've never seen it rigged) the lower-mast tangs are also mounted at the spreader brackets but the one on the port side bracket is welded to the port spreader base/bracket - can't move. Starboard tang is held under the spreader bracket by the through bolt but is not affixed to the bracket like port side -- free to rotate fore and aft. Imagining difference may be result of fixes/mods etc. happening during 40+ years, am wondering which configuration is best/original? Both upper and lower (only one set of lower stays) tie to same chain plates which sit aft of mast step. Spreaders can pivot at the base bracket fore-aft such that upper shroud tension can align spreader outer end between mast top and chain plate. Tension of lower stay port side can exert torsional force on spreader bracket base by virtue of weld attachment. Starboard tang can rotate aft to align toward chain plate without exerting the torsional force. Don't think there even IS a compression tube inside my mast (might be a problem?) Might that suggest that the entire spreader base and tang attachment setup is intended to "float" without much tension on the through bolt-nut combo?