Advice on cutting a hole here?

[JosefR]

So I decided to start with the fitting that is already built into the tank. I bought a new elbow fitting with the same size threads and the biggest nipple I could find. Then I found sanitation hose that matched my nipple size. So no unnecessary holes drilled in my holding tank. The inside diameter of the hose is 5/8 inch. Yes, it's not 1 inch but it's better than a pinprick in my stanchion.



And there is the matching through hull. My hole came out right in the center of a raised molding on the outside hull of the boat causing my through hull to not be long enough to receive the nut. And once you've already got a hole drilled, there's no other way to deepen the face of the hole except to wallow it out with a spade bit. Not very nice looking but it's inside the cabinet and holding strong.

For anyone who wants to tell me I should have gone with 1 inch hose, I would have been very happy for you to come here and make the existing holes bigger. I wasn't capable of it. I really don't think it is possible since no tools will fit in those spaces. I am of the school of thought that any improvement is better than no improvement.

 

[SFS]

Feels good to have it done, doesn't it? Did you happen to snap a pic of the outside? What kind of sealant did you decide on?

Edit: Did you leave the old hose on the stanchion vent? If so, you may want to plug it, if it represents an ingress point for water. (I've never seen a vent through a stanchion, so I have no idea what it looks like.)

 

[JosefR]

Yes, it is satisfying to finally be able to fix a problem. My boat already doesn't stink anymore. I didn't take a picture because it was kind of small and anticlimactic. I used 5200 to seal it. Also smeared some around the nut where I slaughtered the fiberglass. It works though, I did a pump out when I was finished. This time it worked!

Now, according to this video, I can use Charmin Ultra in it and Christen it with my first dump!

 

[SFS]

Careful, TP is a subject kind of like anchors - people become passionate. If you are interested, Practical Sailor did a test report this month:

http://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/37_70/features/Best-Marine-Toilet-Papers_12091-1.html

 

[JosefR]

I'll take a look. I was impressed with the video I shared. Can't beat a video!

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

Well, Josef, you surprised me...that's a very nice job. My only criticism is your use of 5200...not quite clear where you used it, but I hope you didn't use to seal the hose onto the tank and thru-hull, 'cuz sooner or later you'll have to replace the hose. In fact, 5200 really doesn't belong anywhere on a boat. People use it because it's "permanent"...and then live to regret it when they have to remove it.

 

[JosefR]

I used it on the thru hull and the nut. The hose is just friction fitted with hose clamps.

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

Whew!

 

[JosefR]

I also packed the cut off original vent hose remnant with 5200 to keep anything from entering the hull through the stanchion. When it cures, I'm gonna shove it through the hole and forget about it.

 

[JosefR]

Just got to the bottom of my vacuum in head problem. Although I did need to replace that disgusting vent hose, it wasn't the problem. I noticed that when I switch my Jabsco twist and lock toilet plunger to empty the bowl, the lever would not go all the way to the right or stay in that position, it would back off a little bit. I don't know if there was an adjustment for it, but I exchanged it at West Marine and got a new one and now I no longer have a vacuum when I empty. Yay!

 

[SFS]

Did they exchange it at no charge?

 

[JosefR]

It has a 3 year warranty on it, but they require you to go through the manufacturer to authorize an exchange. No charge. But the new one has no warranty. Ain't that a kick in the ass?

 

[JosefR]

An update after using it a while, the new lever doesn't positively snap into place either and you must be deliberate in switching it, or you'll still get a vacuum.

Oh, and I saw someone say that a thru hull vent will stink when you flush, boy was that accurate...envelopes the whole boat in a stank bubble til the wind dissipates it.

 

[Ron20324]

If the plunger hardly goes down, the wet/dry lever is not all the way over. Either hold it over for the first stroke, or switch it back and forth a few times, or change the valve inside.

 

[JosefR]

That's what I just said. And it is my second new valve. It seems to be a defect in the design.

 

[kimelmore]

I replaced the cheep clamshell vent Catalina put on my boat with a straight thru hull type vent per Peggies suggestions in her book (seen below) so I can easily back flush the vent line. Due to the configuration of the boat and holding tank I can't put a vent line at either end but I did go up in size on the line from 1/2 inch to 1 inch vent line ID. It seems to be working.

 

[Tally Ho]

That's what I just said. And it is my second new valve. It seems to be a defect in the design.

Buy a Raritan PH II... no end to fixing a Jabsco.

https://shop.odayowners.com/prod.php?5886/PH+II+Manual+Marine+Toilets

 

[JosefR]

$600? No thanks, I'll just make sure I flip the switch over solidly, there's nothing that needs fixing.

 

[Tally Ho]

$600? No thanks, I'll just make sure I flip the switch over solidly, there's nothing that needs fixing.

Not yet.

But I get it. My first boat had a Jabsco. Seemed like every year I had t rebuild the pump, replace the joker valve, etc. But I sure did not want to part with $500.

My current boat has an older Raritan, and it has not needed any work on it in 3 years. And the pump is much more powerful.

Greg

 

[JosefR]

I'm sure the pump is great, it looks it, but a new Jabsco pump is $80 and the one I have will last years.